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Which vendor makes the best 382 stroker kit as far as quality and price? I haven't narrowed down which kit I want to go with yet. I see that Eagle is by far cheaper but how is the quality. Also Lunati is there with them, just a little more expensive. And I'm not sure if I should go with a LS6 block or if it's just a waste of money. Any info that would send me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
When the cranks are ready , we are selling them for 2500 balanced.
These kits will include:
Eagle 4.000 stroker crank
Eagle H beam rods
Diamond shelf pistons w/ pins
Diamond Proselect ring set
Federal Mogul main bearings
Clevite rod bearings
[QUOTE]I can't complain about my Lunati 382...Just "tons" of torque!! In fact TBYRNE now has a sale on ALL Lunati kits and cams... :yesnod:
I purchased my Lunati kit from TBYRNE, they were great to work with. Because I'm building my motor for a Vortech T-trim SC, and live in Colorado (high altitude), they were able to determine which pistons I needed to achieve the compression ratio I wanted, and in my case, at no extra charge :). The Lunati kits are also known to balance out much better than some of the less expensive kits.
Gene at Karshop has a stock of new GM LS6 blocks complete with caps, bolts and cam bearings for something like $625.00 + shipping.
The LS6 blocks have a better ventalated crankcase. I've also heard that the block is butressed a little more for strength...but not sure on that.
You can't go too far wrong with this kinda deal. I've had excellent dealings with this vendor in the past and my new block is now awaiting a stroker assy.
I think that the eagle stuff might be OK for a street application...I'm not sure what machining/lightening is done to the foriegn made steel forgings or how deep the nitriting is.
I run the Lunati pro-mod stuff in by race car and have had no issues. The cranks are a good american steel forging. They are nitrited to a good depth. The crank throws are lightened and knife edged.
The pro-mod rods are nice cap screw "stroker profiled" forged I-beams so there is no issues with clearance. They are also alot lighter than most other rods in this "quality level" so the rotating assy can often be balanced without using mallory metal.
I don't know anything about Lunati's pistons...I've always used JE. However, you might want to check to see if they're forged or hyperutectic. The forged are stronger, but need more clearance and tend to "rattle" a bit until the engine is warmed up. The hyperutectic are more brittle but can be fit tighter in the bore. In a street car, the added strength might be an issue if you're using spray. Also ask about the depth of the valve pockets if you're going to use a big cam.
Good luck with your parts selection. Keep us apprised on your project!
:lurk: I have a friend who ordered a motor from AP engineering. Waiting to see the results, hopefully should be done soon, but everything I have heard about them has been excellent. Also check LS1tech.com for more opinions.
The Lunati and Callies stuff is first rate pieces. It comes down to this: Is the Eagle stuff 1000 hp pieces? Never. 850? Maybee. 600 ? Every day of the week. If the eagle parts that are being made today keep the same quality level that we have seen so far, i think they will suit 99 % of everyone on this board.
And you are correct again in stating that the higher priced stuff balences easier.
I went with Lunati, but mainly because my engine builder has a lot more experience with their parts and has never had issues with them. He also said he had heard that the Callies parts were good as well, but had never used them himself. He has also built allot of engines using the Eagle parts in order to save some cost, also with no issues other than balancing was more difficult. My application should produce 600- 650 RWHP, I wanted the piece of mind and Lunati won out.