Hi, I just changed over the engine oil to Redline in my 18,000 mile C5 coupe. I want to change over the M6 tranny fluid as well but didn't know which Redline fluid to go with, or exactly how much to use for a drain and refill. Also, how much power steering fluid do you need when you also have the power steering cooler? After this I flush the cooling system since it's a 2000 model. I am not messing with the rear end right now since it will receive a 4.10 in the not too distant future.

Thanks.

 

My MN6 took 3.5 qts. Use Redline D4 ATF.

:seeya

 

I believe the book says 4.1 Qts

Redline specifys their "MTL oil transmisson/transaxle oil" for the M6 which also "satisfys the viscosity requirments of Dexron"

 

Redline D4 ATF works great. Mine took a little over 3.5 quarts. The 2001 service manual says 4.1 for an overhaul job, 3.8 for a drain and fill. It's best to have a pump to get the new fluid in as there is not much room around the fill plug to use a funel.

 

Well then I'm good to go with 5 qts then! :D

As for the pump, I got a little diaphram pump from JC Witney for 23 bucks that should do the job ok. It will take the oil out as well as put it in and I intend to remove as much of the DexronII as I can posibly get out. It might take a while but as long I get the job done, so what, right?

Now I just need some warmer weather. It's to damn cold to be putting this 63 year old body on that cold ground. :p:

I'm afraid the days when I would work under a car in the snow are long gone. :cry

 

Here are a couple pics showing the pump and filler nozzle I used.

 

I can't quite make out the "pump" in the picture. all I see is a line running into the bottle (?)

 

i went to Redline in my tranny and it for sure made shifting smoother and more accurate...

 

thanks for all of the replies, but is the general consensus to use their ATF or the MTL that someone mentioned? any idea on the power steering fluid?

 

I'm going to use the MTL since I already bought it and as far as I can see thats what RedLine reccommnends. Others here have more experience on that subject but if I were you, I would investigate further it myself. AFAIK right now, either way wont hurt anything.

As for the power steering: again check this carefully but as I recall, ( I can't verify this for you right now) that is NOT ATF in your power steering pump. Do not put ATF in there. BTW just in case you want to know, the clutch resevior is not filled with brake fluid either.

So my point here is this , be carefull what fluids you add, nothing is what it seems anymore or what was once common knowledge,[/img] Report this to a moderator DoInsert(' :( '); even more so when it comes to additives! (Does any body use STP any more I wonder?? [/img] Report this to a moderator DoInsert(' :lol: ');
[/img] Report this to a moderator DoInsert(' :lol: ');

 

Don't use Redline power steering fluid either. Contact Redline first. I seem to remember that their synthetic power steering fluid doesn't meet the GM requirements and Redline doesn't recommend it's use.

As for the tranny, use the D4. That is what Redline will recommend.

The pump shown above can be bought at a boat store. They are commonly used to fill the lower units on outboard motors.

 

I just cam from the RedLine site and here's what I found:

D4-ATF - synthetic Dexron III and Mercon fluid meeting the requirements of most transmission manufacturers, while satisfying GL-4 gear oil requirements. Superior stability allows high-temperature operation without varnishing valves and clutches. Also provides tremendously improved shifting in cold weather. The best low-temperature shiftability for manual transmissions and transaxles which require ATFs.

RED LINE MTL and MT-90 are designed to provide excellent protection and improved shiftability for manual transmissions and transaxles. MTL and MT-90 have cured the problem of hard shifting in numerous transmissions which have notoriously difficult shifting. The secret to their success is two-fold. First, they have the appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers. Many gear oils, engine oils, and ATFs are too slippery for proper synchro engagement. Secondly, the viscosity characteristics of MTL and MT-90 allow proper shifting over the entire temperature range which the transmission will experience. The synthetic base oils used have a very high viscosity index which provides relatively constant viscosity as temperature changes. MTL is a low 70W at very low temperatures and a high 80W, nearly an 85W, at elevated temperatures, providing adequate viscosity to prevent wear and deaden gear noise. MT-90 is a thicker 75W90 version of MTL. The shear stability and oxidation stability of these products are excellent, thus the physical characteristics of Red Line MTL and MT-90 will change little with use.

It appears to me that they are talking about the same thing here and I see no advantage of one over the other!
:confused:

 

You are free to put whatever you want in your T-56 tranny, but Tremec and GM say to put ATF in the tranny. I would tend to follow what they say over what redline says or you think they are saying.

Look real close at this pic:




[Modified by gmblack3, 7:55 PM 2/13/2004]

 

[QUOTE]You are free to put whatever you want in your T-56 tranny, but Tremec and GM say to put ATF in the tranny. I would tend to follow what they say over what redline says or you think they are saying.

Look real close at this pic:




:iagree: Let me know if ya need some.

Recommended for applications requiring the following specifications:

GM Dexron II, Dexron III
Ford Mercon, Mercon V
Chrysler ATF+, ATF+2, ATF+3, ATF+4
Mitsubishi Diamond SP II & III



[Modified by IMQUIK, 10:23 PM 2/13/2004]

 

I wouldn't use Amsoil in anything again. I changed to Amsoil synthetic engine oil for a 35K-mile Honda Accord engine. It ruined the valve guide seals, blowing blue smoke for the rest of the time I owned it.

That engine was as tight and clean as a drum before Amsoil. Just one isolated experience? Possibly, but we all make decisions based on such experience.

We're all looking for improved performance and longevity in our cars, but sometimes the best advice comes from the manufacturer. I think I'm staying with Mobil I, etc.

 

Use the Redline DT 4 ATF. Just did mine last week. Took 3.5 qts. Used a drill powered fluid transfer pump ($7) from Home Depot and it worked just fine. :flag

 

Yeah it was the Amsoil :rolleyes: :lolg: :lolg: :lolg: :lolg: :skep: :seeya

 

The Mobil 1 SS is a very good oil. Amsoil's marketing is full of lies and misconceptions. I have spoke with engineers from Redline, Synergyn, NEO and Mobil and they all said the same thing that Amsoil's 4 ball wear tests are bogus. They use an additive that does well in benchmark tests and use it for marketing but in the real world, it has no use.

Redline currently makes the best synthetics on the market. They use higher quality, group 5, Polyolester base stocks with a very robust additive package. Amsoil makes a good oil, I just have a hard time justifying the price difference between it and Mobil 1 when both are so close in terms of formulation. I think they need to step it up a bit. Put Amsoil in your snow mobile. :D

 

I use both, redline and Amsoil and they are both excellent products.
Redline D4ATF is their Dexron III fluid.

Hib Halvorsen swears by Redline ... check the posts on the Corvette Action Center

For my taste after spending a lot of money on these expensive fluids, I am back to using genuine GM DexronIII. Why? It's cheaper, has EXACTLY the right formulation (don't be fooled!! Even aftermarket Dexron III is not the same as GM Dexron III, which is custom formulated for GM) and I swap fluids in my automatic every two years, while running an ATF cooler.


[Modified by Alex D, 2:55 PM 2/14/2004]

 

:rolleyes: Yeah I'll take your word for it Mr lube master. :rofl: :yawn:
Here we go again with the :bs :banghead:


[Modified by IMQUIK, 6:22 PM 2/14/2004]