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I seem to be getting a bit of lag when I hard accelerate my car. Say I'm cruising doing 40MPH and I decide for whatever reason (as if I need one :)) I need to floor it... the car actually deccelerates for 1-2 seconds before lunging forward. Now, I actually kind of like the effect as it makes the car feel like a real beast, however... there are times I need to squeeze into a spot and the decceleration actually makes it almost dangerous.
Is this normal, or perhaps I need to retune my car? I have a Predator (can't afford to do LS1-Edit every time I need to take my car to the shop), and I think James would fix the issue... if this is a problem that isn't normal.
Any idea's?
Also, Hood Seal... I've seen people mention getting weather stripping from Home Depot or some such. Is this the same stripping that's made of foam and sticky on one side? As far as I can tell, this is only for stopping water from leaking on to exposed filters? If so, how exactly is this installed? I'm assuming you just stick the sticky side to the crease on the frame of the car?? Do you use the stripping from end to end - or just enough that it is a bit longer then the width of the filter?
Try doing the acceleration with your traction control off.
I know if you try to accelerate hard from a stop with the traction control on the car bogs for a sec then picks up. Its to keep you from wheel spinning.
Hope this helps and theres nothing wrong with your car.
While cruising and I decide to floor it, the car deccelerates while changes gears and the engine revs go up. It's almost like it goes into neutral for a sec or two.... then once the gear engages the car lunges forward, the tires chirp and then traction control kicks in.
Just on an off chance that traction control had something to do with this, I tried it with it off. The same exact thing happens except the tires no longer chirp, the squeel as the car starts to fish tail. ;) If I keep that up, I'm gonna give a bad rep to Vette owners in my area. :lol:
Is this maybe a "shift point" thing? I've had to reprogram my car after I installed 3.73's.
Also, Hood Seal... I've seen people mention getting weather stripping from Home Depot or some such. Is this the same stripping that's made of foam and sticky on one side? As far as I can tell, this is only for stopping water from leaking on to exposed filters? If so, how exactly is this installed? I'm assuming you just stick the sticky side to the crease on the frame of the car?? Do you use the stripping from end to end - or just enough that it is a bit longer then the width of the filter?
I can't help you with the tranmission problem, but I can tell you how the hood seal works. If you pop your hood, you'll see that the front bumper facia of the car turns down and then back towards the engine at 90 degree angles. You stick the hood seal to either of these 2 surfaces. Clean the surfaces well before you apply the seal. My seal runs the full width of the hood. I think that is probably the safest, but you may only need it to protect the area directly above the filter element. I bought my seal from a vendor on this site. Its nicely shaped and makes a good seal to the hood. It looks like it was designed specifically for this application, so it has the proper sharp corner to fit the facia and then has a rounded corner where the hood meets it. For the minimal cost, I'd get the hood seal from a vendor and not worry about trying to find the right stuff at Home Depot.
Also, Hood Seal... I've seen people mention getting weather stripping from Home Depot or some such. Is this the same stripping that's made of foam and sticky on one side? As far as I can tell, this is only for stopping water from leaking on to exposed filters? If so, how exactly is this installed? I'm assuming you just stick the sticky side to the crease on the frame of the car?? Do you use the stripping from end to end - or just enough that it is a bit longer then the width of the filter?
I can't help you with the tranmission problem, but I can tell you how the hood seal works. If you pop your hood, you'll see that the front bumper facia of the car turns down and then back towards the engine at 90 degree angles. You stick the hood seal to either of these 2 surfaces. Clean the surfaces well before you apply the seal. My seal runs the full width of the hood. I think that is probably the safest, but you may only need it to protect the area directly above the filter element. I bought my seal from a vendor on this site. Its nicely shaped and makes a good seal to the hood. It looks like it was designed specifically for this application, so it has the proper sharp corner to fit the facia and then has a rounded corner where the hood meets it. For the minimal cost, I'd get the hood seal from a vendor and not worry about trying to find the right stuff at Home Depot.
- Mark
:iagree:
My hood seal fits great and when I wash the car I can see the water travel down the hood hit the seal, and roll towards the center of the car and then off, instead of down into the engine compartment. The Engine bay is definitely cleaner than before the seal install.
Sounds to me like you have an A4 (automatic transmission). If so this is normal. Programming can improve it some but not completely in my experience.
:seeya
Sounds to me like you have an A4 (automatic transmission). If so this is normal. Programming can improve it some but not completely in my experience.
:seeya
Yeah I was just gonna say, my old A4 was like that since the first day I bought it. There is no instant response. If you're cruising, the tranny is generally going to be in overdrive with the TC locked. You hit the gas, the TC unlocks, the car downshifts, revs come up, car goes. Want instant response? Switch to M6 like I did.
The stock A4s programming is for a "lazy downshift" which means that the transmission will downshift depending on speed and throttle position. This can be easily changed with LS1edit. :cheers: