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Well first I know I need to lose lb's myself :lol: but is there a rule of thumb if you reduce weight on you car as the same as more HP?
Loosing pounds not only equates to an effective HP increase, it's the desirable path to take, since the car will also stop and turn quicker as well.
It's been my opinion for some time that 3200 lbs for a sports car is (at least) 400 lbs to heavy. But then I read a Road and Track article about the new Porsche GT; here is a no-compromise design for a high performance street car, and guess what? It weights 3200 lbs. So I guess the moral here is if you want A/C, a stereo, and air bags, that's how much a modern sports car is going to weigh.
And the power to wt ratio is calculated at max power, so some overlook the fact that losing wt is ALWAYS positively affecting the ptw ratio. In other words, if you only gain top-end increase in max power (like if you extend your rev limit), your ptw will increase of course, but if you drop wt, you will ALWAYS be lighter, even at low rpms/power output. This is most significant when the total wt in the calc is comparatively less, like car vs motorcycle. (Put a passenger on a bike and the ptw ratio goes down rapidly compared to adding a passenger to a car.)
Also consider rotating wt loss has greater effect than non-rotating loss when it comes to accelerating that wt.
Go to a bicycle shop and ask what a "weight weenie" is. :D
So if you cut the weight in half you double the acceleration. Be aware that the power in the equations above is the power used for translation of the car. Flywheel power is also used for drivetrain friction, the acceleration of rotating mass, rolling friction, and aerodynamic losses. As car speed increases less power is used for acceleration of rotating mass and translation, and more power is used for rolling drag and aero drag.
You will notice that engine torque and gear ratios are not in the acceleration equations above. The more power the engine is making, the faster you will accelerate.
10 lbs = 1 HP. Best to lose weight first. Too bad its not more.
One tip: Get rid of that stock 40 lb battery. I just installed a Odyssey 15 lb dry cell battery, works great.
10 lbs = 1 HP. Best to lose weight first. Too bad its not more.
One tip: Get rid of that stock 40 lb battery. I just installed a Odyssey 15 lb dry cell battery, works great.
I think that's a great idea. A 25lb weight savings is significant for me. Would you comment on how you installed it. The dimensions are much different than stock and I need something which will stay put while autocrossing. Did you have to modify anything? Thanks.
10 lbs = 1 HP. Best to lose weight first. Too bad its not more.
One tip: Get rid of that stock 40 lb battery. I just installed a Odyssey 15 lb dry cell battery, works great.
I think that's a great idea. A 25lb weight savings is significant for me. Would you comment on how you installed it. The dimensions are much different than stock and I need something which will stay put while autocrossing. Did you have to modify anything? Thanks.
You can buy a cover that bolts to the battery tray or make a custom rod/clamp as I did. Here are some info links. You want to get the metal jacket version, it will last longer under high heat.