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I need to replace my negative battery cable... How tough is it to do? anyone have exploded view or directions to replace it? In classic style I take my car into the shop today to get the (little problems fixed that the last shop screwed up) and get it back today with a broken battery cable... :rolleyes:
I swear to god that I am going to do everything to this car myself just to keep the shops from breaking something else while it is in for mod installs. :smash: So its either take it to the dealership and let them fix it while I stand around watching like a hawk... or fix it myself tomorrow. What a bunch of :bs :mad
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
Remove the battery heat shield push-in retainers.
Remove the battery heat shield from the vehicle.
Remove the upper clips from the battery cables.
Disconnect the negative battery cable ground lead from the RH frame rail.
Raise the vehicle and support.
Remove the lower clip from the battery cables (located near the back of the block where the starter attaches).
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the engine block (above the starter)
Installation is the same but in reverse order.
In case you get the cable from the dealer, the part # is 12157086.
I wish my trouble was as simple as yours. I'm waiting for a car transporter to pick up mine and take it down to Andy. If I am lucky it is just a collasped lifter but the way it is running on 7 cylinders I think it twisted and broke. Oh well, it gives me an excuse to replace the cam with one that is abit more aggresive :cheers:
Bill thanks for the info... seems that the cable is fine, the battery post is broken (thanks to the repair shop) I purchased a new battery this morning and will install it later today. Best of luck with your car, I hope its not too serious.
I can proudly say that all my S/C, engine and drivetrain mods are finished... now it is on to the rest of the changes that need to be made. :yesnod:
I believe the motor is fine except for the lifter(s) and probably the cam. If the lifter broke then pieces of the roller are in the oil pan which means pulling the front crossmember to get the pan off to get them out unless Andy has a work around that will do it.
I was planing to run Buttonwillow and maybe I still will if things work out but I am not counting on it.
That must be some machine you have now, Steve. One of these days you gotta give me a ride :smash:
While you're at it, why not upgrade the size of the negative? One of the weakest links in the C5 electrical system is the negative. I upgraded my negative to 1/0 gauge electrical wire and the car has much more juice available for accessories and hundreds of watts of stereo power :reddevil
Thats a good idea, for today just the battery took care of the problem. I took it out for a couple of 4th gear pulls and the car ran very good. Bill, once you get your car back, you should join us for a test and tune day at Sac..