I just got the parts delivered. Here are some pics. The quality seems excellent, and the hardware kit is COMPLETE!!

Sorry Dialup

 

Wow, very nice set-up. Where and how much?

 

Tbyrne for $1479 with free shipping. :hurray:

 

Are those the rear O2 bungs in the short pipe sections sitting in the box?

 

Yes Sir.

 

I was on the fence, LGM's or Dynatech's? After a great talk with
John from Dynatech, I chose to go with him. They arrive today or
tomorrow and go on this Sunday! :D My best run at 6000 feet is
13.7, I will run again soon and post before/after results!

 

Everything in thos epictures for that price? Or just the headers? Are those high flow cats or straight pipes?

 

Just to add on the bad marketing skills by LG, I purchased a CAGS defeat from them 2 weeks ago for 60.00! then when I found out they were on sale for 30bucks at that time from another member. I wrote LG to credit me the difference and still no response. So for the cost of the extra 30 bucks they profitted off me, they lost me as a customer! :smash:

 

I hate to see this thread turn into LG bashing. When I wanted a CAGS defeat, Lou sent me an e-mail out of the blue and matched the price another vendor quoted me and sent it out right away (I had posted thread that I couldn't find one). I was very happy with the service, as he didn't have to contact me at all. I think you will hear from them, but a phone call may be a better way to go since e-mail sometimes leads one to wonder whether it was in fact received.

 

Those look awesome! I can't wait to see some dyno numbers!

:thumbs: :thumbs: :auto:

 

I will make a sound clip of my car after the Dynatech install. Granted it will be a few weeks before they are on I will post it as soon as I can.

 

Looking forward to hearing your comments.

 

:thumbs: Let us know if you run into any snags with the install. I'm going to be installing my headers as a DIY job also. The installation doc looks straight forward.

 

Alright fellas, I just got done with the install. Time for me was 7 hours. I was by myself and did it on jack stands in the garage.

First, to answer a question, YES everything in my previous pics is included with the kit. I didn't have to buy anything else to make this happen. When's the last time that happened?

Overall, for a first-timer I don't think it was that bad. It has certainly helped to read everyone else's install posts for about a year before diving in myself. The instructions that come with the kit are pretty good, however they could add some pictures as a helper. The quality of the build is top notch, they even have serial numbers on them and inspection stickers. The kit comes with all gaskets, nuts/bolts, clamps, and O2 harness extenders.

Since I couldn't get the car up high enough I decided to do the driver's side from the top. That no doubt added quite a bit of time.

Drivers Side:
Had to remove valve cover and coil packs.
Disconnect steering shaft from rack.
Removed the oil filter (changing anyway)
Disconnected fuel lines from the rail, set aside by master cylinder.
dismantled a.i.r. tubing and managed to get it totally out of the way.
Once all that crap was out of the way, just maneuver the header down.
Note: If you're doing this by yourself, you will need to have some sort of large block under the car to support the collector end of the header. This helps when trying the get the bolts started into the head.

Passenger side:
Followed the given instructions, worked just as advertised.
The a.i.r. tube on this side is a b*&tch. You'll probably end up bending it to get it out of the way, the struggle to bend it back when installing.

Issues:
Be sure you put in your front O2 sensors before you start bolting the header to the head. I would put them in the collectors as soon as you drop the header in. This is because once you've bolted them at the top to the head, the collector is snugged up in the tunnel and you won't be able to get them in. This brings me to the first small gripe.

After having them bolted to the heads and at the bellhousing, the top of the O2 sensors are almost touching the top of the tunnel. Later on after you have the rest of the system in, they will be touching. I am expecting some buzzing because of this. I'm going to try adjusting them down tomorrow at the bellhousing using a couple of washers.

Second gripe, the connection between the collectors and the cats is a great design, but you will have some issues getting to all the flange bolts once everything is up in the tunnel. I supposed that is slightly adjustable since the flanges spin 360 degrees. You might play with how the flanges are aligned.(you'll understand once you're there)

The mid section pipes are easy to do. A little wd40 on there before you slip them into the cats makes it easier. The x pipe section is great, I just have one note about the spring hangers and how they connect. Instead of a tab with a fixed hole for running the bolt through, they use a piece of flat stock welded all the way across. This piece has slots as apposed to just bolt holes.

Slide the x-pipe section in the the mid section, and then try to get it hooked up to the mufflers. That saves you from holding it up while trying to bolt up those spring hangers.(PITA) Once it is connected to the muffler section, the weight it more distributed. Push up on the x-pipe with a knee or leg, and with one hand line up one of the spring hangers while starting the bolt with your other hand. Do this for both hangers. Then slide each hanger towards the center, one at a time, and crank them down. That leaves you with even tension at that mounting point. The springs will be in a sort of V pattern from their mounts on the driveshaft housing.

Last gripe, the a.i.r. flange bolt holes on the headers don't exactly line up with your stock a.i.r. connection flange. Solution, using a 3/8 drill bit, drill out the bolt holes in each a.i.r flange, the threads are in the header so nothing to worry about. Remember, the OE flange, NOT the one on the header! This will give just a little wiggle room. This worked like a charm for me.

I guess that's about it, sorry its so long.

Final Impressions:
Great quality:thumbs:
Great customer service:thumbs:
Good fitment (see minor issues above)
Great price:thumbs:
I would certainly buy this again. :thumbs: :D :hurray:

:leaving:


Oh yeah, and sound. I have GHL mangnum plus (6"). With the stock manifolds and h-pipe it was pretty cool, and had some undulation to the tone. Now, the undulation is gone, sounds more smooth, maybe akin to european exotic?? I don't know, I just like it. :D


[Modified by vettatude, 10:18 PM 3/4/2004]

 

Too bad they didnt do that when building FLP's headers. I spent the better part of a saturday afternoon fixing a pinhole leak that had been present since the day I bought them.

 

Thanks for the installation update. Would be curious to find out if you resolve the O2 contact issue up front or if you get any O2 errors once you get it out on the road for a while. That seems to be quite common with the other systems.

 

The first hand install write-up was excellent. :cool: I am impressed that you tackled this job by yourself. I definately plan on having one or two extra people to help with my install.

 

bgood: Yeah, at least one other person would have made it go faster.

vettenuts: I'm going to slip some washers in at the bellhousing mounting point today. We'll see if that helps. I only need about 1/8" of clearance, maybe less.

 

How high do you have to have the car to be able to install from the bottom? I will not be using a lift.

Thanks

 

You'll almost have to stand that header on end, probably 24-30".