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Are you talking about the counter weight clearance issue? That does not seem like a huge deal.
Considering the low output of a street engine 4340 is overkill anyways, so strength should not be an issue.
From: Elmhurst, IL (West Suburb of Chicago) & Home of MEGA Horsepower
St. Jude Donor '06
Re: Eagle cranks (Heretic)
If i were you i would spend the extra 1K(grand) for a battle tested and reliable LS1/6 crank put out by LUNATI as the EAGLE crank is new to the market and you know how these new parts can be a nigthmare(i.e.-Partriot Heads, etc) when they just hit the market and are too good to be true (price wise). I would go with the piece of mind with LUNATI and remember the old addage you get what you pay for!!!! :cheers: :chevy
Are you talking about the counter weight clearance issue? That does not seem like a huge deal.
Considering the low output of a street engine 4340 is overkill anyways, so strength should not be an issue.
The guys who've run into the clearance issue have said by the time they've rebalanced their setup they have enough invested in it to buy the Lunati.
It has been brought to our attention that there is an incompatibility issue with our 4.000" stroke LS1 cranks and certain pistons when using a 6.125" rod. We are working on a solution to this. It is unfortunately not as easy as just cutting the counterweights down. Doing this may make the crank impossible to balance without heavy metal being added (which is pretty much impossible also). When a viable solution is decided on, we will post instructions on this site. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused.
From: Elmhurst, IL (West Suburb of Chicago) & Home of MEGA Horsepower
St. Jude Donor '06
Re: Eagle cranks (SFVetteman)
[QUOTE]From the Eagle site:
It has been brought to our attention that there is an incompatibility issue with our 4.000" stroke LS1 cranks and certain pistons when using a 6.125" rod. We are working on a solution to this. It is unfortunately not as easy as just cutting the counterweights down. Doing this may make the crank impossible to balance without heavy metal being added (which is pretty much impossible also). When a viable solution is decided on, we will post instructions on this site. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused.
WELL there you have it STRAIGHT from the horse's mouth. I would avoid this crank like the PLAGUE!! I have had an LS1 crank (Callies 4.125 crank) fail with a broken reluctor wheel along with other welds on the crank and can assure you its enuff to want to make you :U !
Well seeing as how I'm not in any hurry I'll just wait a bit. It seems as if there are combos out there that work, eventually they will get it figured out.
I believe one day the Eagle cranks will be a very cost-efficient option once they get the bugs worked out. But as stated, for now, I would stick with the Lunati or Callies.
I know Callies had some issues at one time but ARE has done quite a few motors recently with their cranks and have had no problems.
I have had a Lunati 4.125" crank in my 436ci for the past couple years.
Eagle does make some great rods for the price though! I have a set of them going in my 565ci BBC with a Callies 4.250" crankshaft that ARE is currently building me for my 70 Nova.
Most cranks are made from a forging and "twisted " when they are hot.
LUNATI is machined from a solid forged billet... most people tell you Lunati is better but this is the reason why Lunati is better. The machining of the "offsets" is a very difficult task, this is why most use the "twist" method.
Lunati machines the offsets and then grind the journals. The integrity of the grain structure of the metal remains the same throughout the Lunati crank.