I was driving my 97 today and all of the sudden the DIC listed something
like SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL then it went to REDUCED ENGINE POWER or something similar to that. The engine would barely pull the car at an
idle and if I gave it more throttle it did nothing. I shut it off and the check engine light came on and wouldnt shut off. I unhooked the battery and started the car and everything was fine. Will the car do this again and
what made it happen in the first place? Now I am about half scared to drive
the car in fear of being towed.

 

i dont know what made your car go into reduce power mode i think there are several things that will make it come up 1 of them is the throttle postion sensor but i like you have had this happen to me it scared the crap out of me i thought i blew the motor up i hit a 100 shot of nos @ a red light & the reduce power mode came up fortunate for me i was close to home & rode in on 3 or 4 cylinders .where you hotrodding the car ? btw i would recommend keeping a set of tools in the trunk along with a nice set of channel locks just in case it does do it again you can un hook the battery whereever you are

 

I was driving it normally in town. I had to go up a slight incline and stopped
at a red light. I then turned right and went down a hill and the car would not go over 5 mph. That's a good idea having a wrench handy. Thanks.

 

00 a4, my car had same problem today. checking undre hood noticed the maf tube loose. back ridin :seeya

 

Thanks 1320. I drove the car about 20 more miles after I disconected/reconnected the battery and had no more problems. Hopefully
everything is ok. I just bought this car and only have about 250 miles of
driving and this is the only issue so far. It only has 38,800 miles on it so
I am keeping my fingers crossed for luck! :cheers:

 

joeking

I suffered with this problem in my 98 for over 6 months! It will happen again! The bad part about it, you NEVER know when or where!:sad: I had other issues but this problem started 4 months prior to my other problems. I posted on the forum and was advised by nunerous forum members that the early C5's (97 - 98) had a TSB stating that the (TAC module) Throttle Actuation Control module will cause this problem and a redesigned module was issued to correct the problem. The module has gone through three revisions and Fitchners Chevy has redesigned module for a price of $180.

My other problem turned out to be my Body Control Module (BCM.). It would cause a No Start problem and throw some really weird codes!

I was pig headed and tried to prove that something else was causing the problem. You can try the following:

1. Clean the throttle blade.

2. Remove the TAC module plugs (2) and make sure that the plug wells and pins are clean and dry. Make sure to use silicone diaelectric compound to lubricate the seald prior to reasembly.

3. Make sure that the wires at the TAC module are intact and not chaffed.

4. Pull up all and any codes that are stored in the DIC and list them.

The TAC module and the PCM communicate on their own circuits so, there are not too many other things that will cause the problem.

The TAC module is located in the passengers wheel well behind the panel in the rear section of the wheel well. You will need to remove the tire to properly access and remove the panel. The TAC module is secured to the PCM.

Please feel free to ask me anything else about this problem. If Chevy had to redesign a module to correct this problem, you know that it was a significant problem! :skep:

It sucks to have a cool sports car and not know when you will only be able to do 5 mph on the shoulder of the highway as Neons, Hondas and Mustangs pass by honking! :cuss :cuss :mad :mad

Been there done that! Bite the bullet and purchase the updated TAC modulde.

When the problem occurs, try this. Go into the diagnostics mode and clear any codes that are set! That will usually get you out of the REDUCED POWER MODE and allow you to get back on the road!

Bill Curlee


[Modified by Bill Curlee, 11:34 PM 3/20/2004]
[Modified by Bill Curlee, 11:37 PM 3/20/2004]


[Modified by Bill Curlee, 11:43 PM 3/20/2004]

 

Mine has done it twice since the cam swap and I haven't had it tuned yet. I will have it tuned after the heades are done. I Just pull over, turn off the ignition, turn it on, reset the code and restart it with no problems. Chris.

P.S. If this is the only reason you carry a set of tools, then spend a couple bucks for a battery terminal wrench. You can get them at most parts stores for a couple of dollars. It's a small ratcheting 5/16" wrench w/ a hadle.

 

Thanks for the info everyone. I will carry the correct battery wrench...I already have one and will monitor the car carefully. The car has only done
this 1 time but now I have a better knowledge of the underlying problem.
I hope it doesn't happen again but it sounds like it could. :seeya

 

Clearing the codes will work as well as disconnecting the battery. I think dirty maf sensors will cause the problem.

 

:iagree:

Why disconnect the battery when you can do all of this (including finding the cause) without even leaving the drivers seat. :yesnod:

 

joeking

If you ever get another check engine or a code in the DIC all you need to do to clear it is to go into the Diagnostic program and then go into manual mode and pull up the module and the code. Once you have the code displayed, hit the reset button! If it clears and comes right back then you have a hard code and need to trace it down and fix it! Normaly it will clear and you do not have to disconnect the battery.
Bill

 

I stated in my first post that the "check engine light came on after clearing the codes therefore I did have to get out and disconnect the battery. Anyway to make a long story short I drive the car over 150 miles today and everything worked perfect. I think it will be ok since the car only has a few
hundred miles on it since winter storage. Thanks again everyone.
:cheers: :thumbs: