Bulletproof C5 drive train?
First off, good luck on a swift and painless repair to those who have had these issues. :grouphug:
Second, is there anything good on the horizon to help bulletproof the drive train? It seems that even with hardened output shafts and severe duty differentials available from DTE, people are still breaking things. From what I can tell, the common thread among all of them is that the breakage occurred at the track with something other than street tires (DR's, slicks, etc.)
I pulled the trigger on a forged 383 motor with A&A Corvette's ATI D1SC single intercooler setup recently, and the few battlefield reports I've been hearing about breakages has me really worried. I only have street tires for the car and rarely take it to the track, but it would be really disappointing to sink all this money in motor/blower mods to the car, then end up broken on the side of the road one day because I obliterated my tranny.
Any advice for me? Should I maybe ask that my car be "detuned" a little bit to reduce its power until better/cheaper drivetrain components become available? My guess is that the 383 with A&A stage II heads, a mild cam, and 10psi should do 600rwhp easy. Maybe I should take it real easy on the boost for now?
[Modified by Bigben, 9:02 PM 3/22/2004]
Nothing is truly bulletproof. When you race, things will break, sooner or later. The higher power/traction levels you go, the more often things break. A blown 383 has tons of power, if you put some sticky tires on it, things in between the two are going to break eventually. A good aftermarket clutch, built tranny and diff, perhaps add some stronger halfshafts (if they make them?) and a DTE brace, and you should be pretty damn strong. Don't hear too much about broken driveshafts, except for the couplings that seem to go after a while.
I think reducing your power is kinda silly. Why not just stay stock then? Fixing things when they break is half the fun (at least, thats what I tell myself).
Do the things I mentioned (over time maybe, or as things break?) and you'd have a pretty reliable 10 sec car easily. Not many cars can pull that off.
If you wanted more dead nuts reliable, go with an F-body. They have better options for bulletproof drivetrains than C5s do. A built TH400, CF or metal matrix driveshaft, 9" with spool, etc will take pretty much anything.
Dope
I would suggest that you consider the following upgrades:
1) Purchase and have installed the Dyno Tech Engineering Differential Strut and their heavy-duty L.H. output shaft.
2) Purchase and have installed the Breathless Performance Torque Tube Bushing Kit.
3) Purchase and have installed an Exedy dual-disc flywheel and clutch assembly.
4) Have your ring and pinion gear set Cryogenically treated and micro-polished.
Those items are on my 'To Do' list for next year.
Good luck with your decision. :seeya
Nothing is truly bulletproof. When you race, things will break, sooner or later. The higher power/traction levels you go, the more often things break. A blown 383 has tons of power, if you put some sticky tires on it, things in between the two are going to break eventually.
If you wanted more dead nuts reliable, go with an F-body. They have better options for bulletproof drivetrains than C5s do. A built TH400, CF or metal matrix driveshaft, 9" with spool, etc will take pretty much anything.
Dope
Keep the car on street tires and about the only thing you'll NEED to replace is the clutch. I upgraded my rear too but mainly because I was upgrading to 3.90 gears, I figured why the hell not? I doubt you'll break anything anytime soon unless you screw up. The tranny may go south eventually but then you can use that as an excuse to get a heavy duty unit.
Dope
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