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Are LG Motorsport headers actually manufactured by Borla? If so, does Borla only use LG Motorsports as their exclusive distributer of their headers? I am still on the fence as to what headers to buy but the LG Motorsports seem to be priced very high.
Also, if you are looking for cheap mods, you picked the wrong car.
This is my second LS1, so I am used to the prices. My friend just got an LS1, his last was a LT4. He's had a bad case of sticker shock to say the least. :eek:
LG's are a top notch system so you will pay a little more. Lou has tested these to no end so you have to suck up some of the R&D if you want a set. You cold also opt for his hand-made set which goes for around $2500; I think.
You're preaching to the choir my friend. I'm 99% sure I'm going with LGs, just so I won't be in the company of some of the less tactfull people out there. ;)
I'm in the process of stashing $200 here, $300 there out of my account so the wife won't see it all at once. I already had to explain the $4k for Nitrous, suspension, and a KwikLift in the last 30 days... A man can only take so much heat from the woman that owns him. :) ;)
LG's are a top notch system so you will pay a little more. Lou has tested these to no end so you have to suck up some of the R&D if you want a set. You cold also opt for his hand-made set which goes for around $2500; I think.
Al, how are you, Man? I got my car out of hibernation this weekend - runs like a bear, but am getting the "Check Engine" thing now! I may take it to the local Corvette dealer here in town because I'm tired of laying on my back with the car on stands trying to figure all this out! It's a bit frustrating to say the least! Hope all is well with you!
Lou :cheers:
LG's are a top notch system so you will pay a little more. Lou has tested these to no end so you have to suck up some of the R&D if you want a set. You cold also opt for his hand-made set which goes for around $2500; I think.
Doing great Lou, it's nice to hear from you.!
Oh no,, you got a dreaded check engine light.
O2's ? Is it still a bit cool up there? Might be a heater.
If you run it for awhile, clear the codes and start it up hot, do you still get the light ?
Al, I got the C.E. light yesterday and then came home and cleared the codes out. The codes were U1096, U1016 & P0153. I drove the car today for about 20 miles and no light. Then went out again 3-4 hours later, drove a few miles and the light came on again. The code was P0153.
Al, today I cleared the code out and it was back within 5 miles of driving. I drove the car until it was up to full temp, stopped and shut the car down, cleared the code and came back out a half hour later when the car was still warm and the code didn't come back. So, to answer your question - looks like once the car is warm there's no code, but when it's cold I get the code. What do you think the fix is? :confused:
Al, I got the C.E. light yesterday and then came home and cleared the codes out. The codes were U1096, U1016 & P0153. I drove the car today for about 20 miles and no light. Then went out again 3-4 hours later, drove a few miles and the light came on again. The code was P0153.
P0153... Right front sensor... almost sounds like an exhaust leak or loose O2. How old is the fuel ? Long shot, but check the plug wires on the pass. side. If you have a temp probe, check the temp of each primary. If you do take it to a local shop, take one of your rear 02's for testing.
The fuel is what I put in it back in November before storing. I added Stabil before storing. I'll get up under it tomorrow night and check to see if maybe the sensor isn't tightened all the way in and check all the plug wires. I don't have a temp gauge though. I hope this can be corrected because the car goes like stink and sounds incredible! The black Z06 wheels really set her off, too!
Al, I'll email you some pix as soon as I can - I was having so much fun driving it this weekend (even with the C.E. light on!) that I didn't take advantage of the sunny weather to take pictures! I'll keep you posted on what I find when I get to work on it again. Thanks for your help!
Al, sent you pix via email today. I'm hoping to get up under the car yet again this weekend and see if I can figure out where the problem with the code is.
St. Jude Vendor Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11
Re: LGM Header Question (C5LOU)
Hi Lou,
The U1096 and the U1019 are "Loss of communication" with the PCM codes. they are not header related.
THe heater code, P0153 could be the 02 fuse, or it could be as simple as a cracked spark plug or bad wire that is pouring unburned fuel into the exhaust.
Sometimes the P0153 will go away after it is "Cleaned" off with hard driving. The 02 sensors sometimes get contaminated and read slow, or don't get hot.
Should not be hard to get right.
Lou, how do I troubleshoot this? I put new plug wires on when I did the header install, but it's possibly one isn't connected well. I have new plugs that I haven't installed. I'll install them. Then I'll check to make sure the sensor is tightened in all the way. I should be able to hear it if I have an exhaust leak at the flange or in one of the collectors, right? What else should I do? Remember, I'm NOT the world's best mechanic!!! I really want to get this taken care of so I can enjoy the power and sound without the "Check Engine" light on! Thanks.