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Take the MAF snesor apart with the four Torx bolts. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THE SENSOR ELEMENTS! When you get the front housing apart from the sensor and the rear housing, hold the housing in both hands and press the screen out with your thumbs.
The screen is an attempt at stopping large debri from damaging the MAF element. With a filter, this should not be a concern.
Chris.
My 2003 Had one - I removed it, not trouble - just as mentioned, be SUPER careful of the MAF elements (The tiny little wires). Not sure if it made any hootin difference or not, but it was a fun early on mod
It will flow more air without the screen. If you want to be able to go back to stock later, don't push the screen out, replace the MAF ends with ported, no screen ends, and store the stock ones. The ported ends will flow a little more air than stock, without screwing up the calibration like some aftermarket MAF's. I got my MAF ends from Breathless Performance, a sponsor here. Others will have them also. :cheers:
Some guys would go one step further than screen removal by hacksawing out the airfoil in the center of both ends. This opens up the flow area a bit. A lot of guys then got surging and idle problems also. So, the question is, "How much more HP can you get by cutting out the airfoil"? Best guess answer is, "It will probably help on a heavily modified engine(Head/Cam)." The safe thing to do is buy the Nylon MAF ends as they are relatively cheap compared to everything else. This allows you go switch back to the stock, screenless MAF if you get surging/idle problems. I never had any problems after removing my MAF screen. :cheers:
I put the breathless MAF ends on, all was fine until I did heads/cam. Even with LS1 edit tuning, I had to put the ends back on to get the surging and idling problems to stop.
Jeff: I fond the surging/idle problems after heads/cam were due to the throttle body. Easy fix was to drill a small hole in the blade (1/8") for idle air. Now idles like a champ. :hurray: