Gentlemen,

First let me state I am new to high stall convertors..I recently had a 3000 Stall convertor installed. (I have a 3.42 rear) I have been reading the posts on the boards regarding "drivability" or "streetable" ect ect.

Here's the question.... I guess I was under the impression a 3000 stall meant that it would lock up solid at 3000 rpm. Driving around town, this one is slipping till it hits 4000 rpm. Driving up hills is the worst.. Tranny temp just driving around town is 200 degrees. This is with the outdoor temp being 40 degrees.

I was told today this is normal....

Again, being new to these, I waited until I had someone more familiar with convertors drive the car, and talked to the installer before I would make at post.

Please understand if I crack the throttle, it is a rip.. 95% of my driving though is not at WOT. Granted, the installer recommended a 2600 convertor. Does this mean it will slip to 3600 before it hooks up??

Note: It is a "Custom unit" I was told.. Not one of the brands I see talked about on the forum.

If this is what some of you guys call, streetable, I couldn't imagine driving a 3500 or 4000 stall around town....

On the highway, it seems to be fine..

Any suggestions or information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

:steering:

 

:confused:

 

I have a Yank 3000, 2.0 STR TC with 3.42 gears and it is just barely looser than stock, no where near the kind of slipping you mentioned. Even with a smaller stall ratio than mine I would think it should not be that loose. I am no expert but sounds like to me your converter has a problem. Good luck! :cheers:


[Modified by 98silverC5, 4:17 PM 4/12/2004]

 

Something is very wrong. Even if your not explaining the situation correctly, there is no way you should see 4000 RPM's during normal part throttle operation. If your driving with the stock shift and lockup tables you should be shifting into 4th between 1000 to 1500 rpm's or 30 to 35 mph. Lockup should be around the same rpm's and speed. You either have a bad converter or a slipping trans and likely don't have your shift and lockup points set right. I don't mean to be insulting at all, but I suggest you ride with someone who has a converter to feel what a correct setup is like. Then, take the car to someone who can tell you what's going on with your car.
My final suggestion is that we all should stick with tried and true brands that work for our cars.





[Modified by gojo, 5:09 PM 4/12/2004]

 

STOP DRIVING YOUR CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YOUR TRANNY FLUID IS LOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YOUR GOING TO SMOKE YOR PLATES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IF YOUR TRANNY FLUID IS LOW YOUR TRANNS WILL SLIP LIKE ITS GOT 6000 STALL.
:smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :cry :cry :cry :cry :cry :cry

 

Nick, good suggestion. It's a strange situation though, since he says it runs fine at WOT and with low fluid it should be worse than at PT. If the fluid is so low as to cause these problems it's another reason to go to someone knowledgeable

 

:iagree: :nono: :nono:

 

Gents,

Thanks for the info. A tranny code, 10PCM P0756HC , came up yesterday as well. I cleared it and it did not come back.This is starting to get my goat as they say.

If I had not put in the convertor, I would think the tranny is goin away. It feels the same though since the day I got it from the shop. I wonder if it was full when I picked it up now.

The convertor came from one of the big vette shops. I did not have a "fly by nite" shop do the work. They say thats the way a 3000 behaves.

It sucks parking it but its a hell of alot cheaper than replacing the tranny. Guess I gotta find a way to get the fluid checked..

:skep: now!

 

Have you been tuned yet with ls1 edit :)

 

I have a 3200 stall Vigilante( you should have contacted this forum first before installing and buying anything) Only buy either Vigilante or Yank converters, they are the ones that the majority uses ...you cannot go wrong.. and if this shop was so knowledgeable why did'nt they recommend a tranny cooler? And get your shifts programmed and tightened...You should be running very close to stock feeling with a 3000 converter, exept that it takes alittle more gas to get going. What kind of converter did you get? There has been many posts about shady co's...anyway, hope everything turns out OK :seeya


[Modified by mark b, 1:10 AM 4/13/2004]

 

Gentlemen, If I don't answer all the questions fully, please understand I don't want to give vendor info out. Some responses I believe would do that.

I will be contacting a local Chevy dealer this am to have the fluid checked and if needed changed. Hopefully, they can sqeeze me in today or tomorrow.

:steering:

 

I put a PT Vigilante 3000 in my daily driver, and have never been happy with it. I'm more used to it now though. The Vigilante converters are known to be about 400rpm under-rated. Going from the stock 1800 stall to 3400 stall was quite a jump, and high revving in traffic is annoying.

But I agree with checking the level, I topped it off three times before I it was really full. That makes a big difference in stall speed and heat buildup.

You have to have a trans cooler, it's not an option with a high stall converter. Even with a trans cooler, I have to stop and let the trans cool after 6 WOT test runs on a country road.

This one also vibrates at 3200rpm, and I've been told that rotating the bolt-up might help.