I have been lurking on all of the cam threads and it is a consensus that everyone loves the TR224 cam or anything that is comparable such as the MTI cams. I have come to the conclusion that this will be the smallest cam that I will use.

I am going to run cam only for now and this is a daily driver so that is important. I have most of the basic bolt ons and I plan on doing the LS6 intake manifold before the cam.

Because I am paranoid I will probably do the dual springs in the heads so that I dont have to worry about reliability. This means that I can get that higher rate cam.

Does anybody run a 228 cam on either a 114 or 112. I dont see many people with these and I want to know if this will be good for a daily driver and if the install will be the same as the 224 (i.e. still use stock heads and such).

I dont mind if you explain all this to me like I am an idiot... I am still learning all about this stuff. Lemme have your opinions

Thanks in advance

 

If i were you i would run the FM 11 cam offered by ALan Futral (Futral motorsports) with awesome specs of 228/230 with around a .590 lift and 112 or 113 lsa. ALAN recommended this cam for my stock LS6 headed Z06 and if and when i cam her up i will probably go with this cam or his FMS 13 with specs of 230/232 and similar lift to the FMS 11 as ALANS cams make HUGE POWER on both stock headed and aftermarket heads and he is a CAM GURU!!!! :cheers: :cool: :chevy

Also, i would highly recommend calling MTI as the R1 cam might be great for you or there x1 cam and also THunder Racing, Cartek and LGM all have great cam options and can help you out. DEFINTITELY go with dual springs that fit right into the stock heads without machining and the consensus right now on the best duals are the COmp 921s (pricey but great) and the Patriot dual gold springs. HANG out on LS1tech.com if you want to gather more info as there is non stop hardcore cam LS1 talk alwyas going on there!!!! :cheers: :cool: :chevy

PS-all the cams i mentioned would work perfcect with stock heads and make in excess of 400rwhp with bolt ons etc. and will be 1000% streetable. If your a stick car i would defintely stick with a 112 lsa or 113 at the most as these will make better power down low for you will you would do most your street driving.


[Modified by MTI 427 Roadster, 11:32 PM 4/21/2004]

 

How lopey will the 228 be on a 112? Will the car shake at all or what should I expect in that sense.

I will probably have Andy at 21MC do the tune

 

Nice 'stang!:cool:
Roy

 

I never enjoyed my 224/224 112lsa cam in my old TA. I currently running 224/228 114lsa cam, But i am going with a bigger cam soon.

 

Thanks supervette, she is a beaut but never holds water to the vette!
Anyone else have any input?

 

On Andy's :cool: recommendation, and after seeing how powerful/streetable Andy's personal 409 CI ZO6 w/ATI F1-R BLOWER is with a 224/224/.581 XER cam, we are putting in a 224/228/581/591/115 XER cam in my 427 w/ATI F1-R blower.
I'm going higher on the boost and lower on the cam (formerly 230/230/591/114 XER) and it should be eminently powerful and streetable.
When it's ready (shortly), I will report.
Most guys would consider me under cammed, but my car is strictly a street/road machine and daily driver designed for midrange torque with the blower there to maintain that torque to 6500 RPM!
Good luck on your cam, you can't go wrong in the 224(+)or(-) range. :D
Roy

 

May want to consider how much "power under the curve" or how flat of a torque curve you're getting when considering a particular cam. There are several large cams that will give you high horsepower numbers, but I would closely examine the dyno charts to see how much power across the band you're really getting - down low up through the higher RPM ranges. Example, determine where (and how flat) you're getting peak hp/tq. If its at 5,000+ RPM and sacrificing low-end power from 2,000 to 3,500 - you may want to change your cam choice with your stock heads. Better flowing heads will definitely change the equation. I'm new at this too. Just my .02.


[Modified by AlohaC5, 6:50 AM 4/22/2004]

 

with my cam only G5X3 cam only Z06, my torque stays higher then stock the whole time, thats from 2000 rpm on, i was surprised to see that, and that cam is pretty big

 

Do you really want a cam or maybe just a great LS 1 edit to 'TUNE' your car?? The LSx motor is amazing what can be pulled out of the stock motor with proper LS1 edit. Of course the lopy sound of a cam is AMAZING :cool:

 

I know 5 or 6 vettes with the 228/114* cam in them and they are very pleased with power, street manners and dependability...all have good tuning. With the 228 they aren't always asking themselves if they should have gone bigger...

 

I just had a 228/.581/114 installed on my 2000 FRC, along with Kooks headers, pulley, LS6 intake, 3.73 gears, and a few other small items. So far so good.... I do appear to be running rather rich right now, but that's probably due to me messing with some stuff. The car is aggresive sounding, does require a little bit of warm up time in the morning, does have a noticeable lope and shake, and makes good power. I believe I dyno'd at 320 HP / 330 TQ with just stingers and V-Ram. After the cam, headers, and gears I pulled 379 HP / 358 TQ. The shop that installed everything told me that my graph looked very good... the torque was there early, and it pulled hard all the way to 6700 RPM. I was a little dissapointed with the peak HP, and they said "you have a strong car...take it to the track before you get dissappointed". I haven't made it to the track yet, but I'm very satisfied with cam and headers...it sounds like a freakin Formula 1 car past 3400 rpms, what could be better than that!! Good luck.
Stephen

 

Re AlohaC5's comments about larger cams losing TQ between 2500 & 4000 RPMs ---- I have never seen this happen, and have attended several "dyno days" & looked at dozens of dyno charts. For example, a friend started out w/ an MTI B1 cam (around 221 duration), then stepped up to a 228/230 grind. He picked up over 30 TQ at 2500 RPMs, and throughout the power band all the way to red-line. When the two dyno charts were graphed together, the TQ curve was shaped the same, but the larger cam just produced more power.

Having said that, where you will see a TQ drop is below 2500 RPMs. The bigger the cam, the more sluggish low-RPM throttle response. Sixth gear can become almost useless. This is why a gear change benefits cars w/ big cams. Also, the larger cams have driveability issues. You may have to drill a small hole in the TB butterfly to allow enough air in at idle, and (especially w/ LT headers) the engine may surge, and the exhaust will stink of unburned fuel.

 

Hey Navy....Ive got that cam tuned by Andy.....Go up to the shop and have Andy call me...ill meet ya up there and you can see for yourself :yesnod:
Wash

 

This is funny I was about to post on Aloha's comments.....
RE: AlohaC5's comments....read them again they make alot of sense.
I have plenty of folks LATELY (especially on stock heads) step up to 228 or higher duration cam for an additional 15 -20 (dyno) hp way up at 6x00 RPM sacrificing HP/TQ down low. Worse I met a guy running like .590 lift on 918's.
People are just stuffin those bigguns in these days. Match the heads you got, build a package.

 

Awesome input guys, washguy I just might have to take you up on that offer!
Where in Dallas are you, maybe I can just meet up with you. I would really just like to sit in the car at idle and feel how it would drive. Then you can scare me if you would like :cheers:

I have 3.90 gears planned in the future so I am not really worrying about losing any low end torque. I dont think I will lose all that much anyway with a 228.

Thanks, and let me know wash

 

:iagree: FM 11 on a 112LSA here Love the cam 436 rwhp and 416 rwtq. very strong tq. cure. :reddevil Nice lope. The short block is the original LS1 with 65,000 miles. If you don't want the lope go with a 114LSA

427 roadster I'd go with the FM 13 230/232 on a 112. I almost wish I'd gone with the FM 13 all are very streetable. I've never had a hot start problem and runs great in traffic with the AC on.

Navy Blue you can feel my car shake some from the lope. If you want it to smooth out go for a 114LSA Sounds like you'd like the 230/232 with those 3.90s. There is a topic on LS1tech now. It should clear in your motor without fly cutting.


[Modified by 93Polo, 12:32 PM 4/22/2004]

 

Get stronger pushrods with the stiff springs and faster ramp. It's only about $100.

 

i planed on doing the pushrods and such... I will do the whole package but thanks for the input

 

HP is the heads.........thats where you need to spend the money!
:chevy