The connection points where the automatic transmission cooler lines enter and exit the radiator are unique to GM as far as I know.

Does anyone know of someone who makes adapters that would allow us to plumb a transmission cooler into and out of these lines using AN fittings without cutting anything or using hose clamps?

I have seen my shop cut these lines and weld an AN fitting to them so that AN connections and braided hose can be used. However they have to remove the rack to get the line out so that they can make this modification. This makes the process expensive from a labor standpoint. So... is there an adapter kit or some better solution?

No hose clamps please!

 

I have already done this to my '99 vert. I found every single piece of hardware that I needed for the job at Home Depot (hardware), and Advanced Auto (cooler). You supply the tools!

All you need to do it cut one of the rubber hoses and direct a new circuit to your cooler, I can't remember if the lines are 1/4" ID, or 3/16", or something real close, but I believe that they were 1/4" ID.


[Modified by flyerII, 6:04 PM 7/2/2004]

 

Later models 2001 and up are different, I haven't found adapters but I'm sure they're out there. I'm still looking and will post if I find a source. Ron B.

 

If you cut one of the rubber hoses that sounds like you are using hose clamps and I do not want to do that. I want a secure and 100% reliable connection.

Are you using clamps???

 

Thanks for the info Ron, I did not know later models were different. For sure if you find something let me know and I will do the same.

 

I doubt if you'll find adapters. This subject has come up a number of times. I used barbed connectors and clamps. The barbed connectors are very secure.

 

I understand the perfectionist attitude, but you are causing yourself way too much unnecessary work. I used barbed brass connectors, with hose clamps. 100% absolutely secure and reliable connection. You are MUCH more likely to burst a hose than for a barbed/clamped connection to fail, especially given the kind of PSI a trans fluid system is likely to operate at (I'm guessing no more than 60psi).

You can do what you want, but I haven't had the slightest hint of leakage in my connections, and that's with 5800rpm runs holding the trans in second gear up and down mountains ALL day long.



All of my GM cars ('97 SLS, '93 Seville, '99 Vert Vette) have clamps on hose connections for the cooling system.


[Modified by flyerII, 6:30 PM 7/2/2004]

 

According to my parts information, the fittings on the 3/8-inch transmission lines are the same and have the same part number from 97 thru 02. I do not know if the later years are different but the parts dept at a dealer should be able to tell you.

Assuming they are the same then the fittings are of the 5/8_18 inverted flare type. In order to use AN lines, you will need an adapter to go from the upper (return line) 5/8_18 inverted flare female fitting on the radiator to a 6 AN male fitting (Earls #991947 or similar). Then use a 6 AN 120 degree swivel hose end (Aeroquip FCM4042 or similar) to attach to the 6 AN line.

On the line returning from the cooler, use a 6 AN male 45 degree swivel hose end and another 5/8_18 inverted flare male to 6 AN male adapter (Earls #991947 or similar). To connect the cooler line to the transmission return line, use the 5/8_18 female union (GM # 442338) that the C5 uses for its two-piece transmission lines


[Modified by SFVetteman, 3:32 PM 7/2/2004]

 

If you take the fitting off you notice it is unlike any fitting you've seen. At least on my o3'.

 

I just did it last weekend put in a B&M race cooler and earls stainless line and never cut the factory line all fittings if you want something like that let me know and I will make a drawing and parts list. It really is slick in two mintes I can disconnect the cooler and be back to factory.

 

Hey for sure put up the parts list! I would really like to have it and I bet others would too. It would be a big help.

 

Hi Kirby, I wouldn't mind taking you up on your offer please. If you send it to me I can also host it for others if that's Ok with you?

Thx,
Steve

 

No problem I have it almost done need a better illustrator but I will send you what I have it may be in the am, if anyone needs it sooner let me know and maybe I can finish it late tonight. I will take some pictures as well
Kirby

 

Thanks for your reply and I must say I really do appreciate your help. I'm just a bit gun shy about using clamps and I will tell you why. About thirty years ago my brother and I helped a friend campain a 69 Vette in B Production SCCA roadracing. We were street rodders and had become pretty good mechanics. One thing we put on the car was an adapter for the oil filter that let us run lines to remote dual oil filters. We connected it via hose barbs and double clamps. The pressure is about the same as an automatic trans and so is the temprature range of the oil.

Well, during one race the clamps and the hose just blew right off of the hose barb. The driver was so busy racing that he never noticed all of the oil as it was being pumped onto the race track.

Needless to say my brother and I had to build another engine. I learned my lesson so for me there will be no short cuts. I always rember that incident as one of those times that I learned something the HARD way.

 

There are many ways to skin a cat or run lines for a transcooler but this is one way to do it.

From the upper transmission line connection at the radiator to the transcooler:

Earls 991947
6 AN male to 5/8_18 male adapter (for the radiator fitting)

Aeroquip FCM 4042
6 AN 120 degree swivel hose end

Aeroquip AQP braided stainless steel hose, cut to length

Aeroquip FCM 4022
6 AN 45 degree swivel hose end

Earls 982368
6 AN male to 1/2 NPT male (for the cooler fitting)

From the transcooler to the transmission return line:

Earls 982368
6 AN male to 1/2 NPT male adapter (for the cooler fitting)

Aeroquip FCM 4022
6 AN 45 degree swivel hose end

Aeroquip AQP braided stainless steel hose, cut to length

Aeroquip FCM 4022
6 AN 45 degree swivel hose end

Earls 991947
6 AN male to 5/8_18 male adapter

GM# 442338 (can be ordered from any Chevy dealer)
5/8_18 female union (for the male fitting on the transmission line)

A good transcooler to use is the B&M 70266 (8x11x1.5). The transcooler
works best when mounted to the front of the AC condenser using the B&M
80278 mounting kit.

All parts, except for the GM union, can be readily obtained from Summit.

Braided stainless steel hose is usually sold in 3ft. increments. Most likely you will need more than 3ft. but less than 6ft. total, but always measure to be sure.

Other items you will need: hacksaw, 1 inch wide (or so) masking tape, a bench vise (to hold the fitting while you push and twist the hose end on), some 30 weight oil (to lube the inside of the hose and the fittings to ease assembly) and two 11/16 open end wrenches (for the AN fittings). You will also need wrenches for the transmission line fittings but I cannot remember the size.

When you cut braided hose, the steel braid tends to flare out so use 1 inch wide masking tape, wrapped once only around the hose in the area to be cut and cut through the tape. It is recommended to remove the tape from the hose after you cut it. If you do and you can keep the braid from flaring out and making it impossible to get the hose into the fitting then you are better than me and I will buy you a beer if we ever meet. I just leave the one layer of masking tape on the hose ends.

Here is a link to Aeroquip assembly instructions for steel braided hose. You will need to scroll to near the bottom of the page: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/070.pdf

To mount the cooler you will need to remove your air intake and the top cover
over the radiator. At each end of the radiator near the hood hinges you will see two bolts that secure the top cover to the frame. Once the top cover is off the radiator shroud can be pushed out of the way or you can remove it entirely by removing the screws along the fascia underneath the car at the mouth of the radiator air intake.

The AC condenser is hung off the radiator on hooks and can be lifted up and moved forward for room to push the four nylon mounting rods (from the mounting kit) through the fins on the AC condenser. It is easier to mount the cooler on the left (drivers side) of the condenser because you have a bit more room to work with during installation and you can better see where you need to push the mounting rods thru.

One final note: Steel braided lines are very abrasive and need to covered to prevent them from wearing away at whatever they come in contact with


[Modified by SFVetteman, 9:37 PM 7/2/2004]

 

Sent you an email with diagram and parts list will take pictures as well and send. Good Luck Kirby

 

I really do appreciate everyones help. What I have discovered is that the 03 and the 04 are using a different fitting for their connections. The 5/8 x 18 fitting from Earls is to small for my year model.

My car uses some kind of special compression fitting with male threads and it goes into a fitting that is female with a square face in the bottom of it. There is no flare of any kind in the fitting on the radiator.

Is there anyone who can tell me what this thing is and where fittings that match it can be obtained. Someone has to be making this thing. A thread gauge indicates that the threads on the male fitting are a metric 1.5 pitch. Its probably an 18mm diameter.

 

Surely someone knows where these fittings originate?????????

 

On late model C5's, tranny cooler lines: These fittings are known as Saginaw. GM parts says you have to replace the entire hose since the fittings are pressed on. You can cut them off the the hard lines and install 3/8" line compression fittings, IV flares, or perhaps AN fittings for the extension lines.

 

The saginaw fittings are likely 16x1.5mm metric, like some of the older GM EFI fittings. Earls has adapters for these available as well. Just look on their site under fuel injection adapters.