Alright, I am installing my gauges getting ready for boost and am looking for the best location on the drivers side to run the wires for the fuel and boost gauges into the engine compartment. Is there already a good place to feed through or do I need to drill?

Thanks

 

 

When I put in my A-Pod and gauges. I went through the hood release firewall opening already. I didn't want to drill another hole as well.

Let me know if you need any info. Here is an old word doc that I put together from other members advice. Cheers.
Intalling gauge pod electrical wiring. Two ways of doing this.

Plan A)

1) You run the wires under the dash by the knee bolster and run them up through the center console to the Active Handling and Traction Control button wiring. I did not have to remove the center console since the wires were able to slide between the the opening.
2) Use the ORANGE and BROWN wires going into the active handling and traction control button.....it is in that circuit and will dim and light with the dash lights just have to run it to your gauges from that area.


Plan B)

1) Take off the center console cover so that you can remove the facia around the radio & AC controls. Unscrew the AC controls and pull them out a little bit. The conector on the back has one yellow wire all alone near the top of the plug. Use this as it is the same circuit that the insturment cluster light dimmer controls. Get the common ground (negative) anywhere on the vehicle. Yes, the traction control button wires will also work, but then you have to run a wire all the way up to them. The wire on the back of the AC controls is closer.


Running the lines through the hood release cable hole to connect your cable for the Air pressure and other gauge is the way to run them through.

 

Thats how my line lock wires were run. Through the hood release opening in the firewall.

 

I went through the firewall next to the harness grommet behind the battery on the passenger side.

 

All of the fire wall holes for wiring, hoses or cables go through a flexable rubber seal. I have found that if you use a stiff piece of wire, make a "U" shape bend in the wire and use a pair of plires to close the sharp end against the the metal wire, it will slip in between the rubber seal and the harness or cable without any damage to the seal or the hoses, harness/cables.
Once the metal wire is in, tape the wires that you want to make it through to the other end of the metal wire and look up under the dash, find the metal wire and pull it through.
I installed heated seats and fished two 12 gauge wires through the large hole in the fire wall for the main harness on the passengers side.

It worked like a champ!!

BC

 

Thanks gang! That is all the info I needed!

 

Well I got the gauges all done yesterday. I ended up pulling the washer motor out of the way and used the same area that the electrical for the motor goes through. Since one of the gauges was a vacuum line, I simply expanded to hole to the left for the vacuum line and sealed it up with black RTV. Routed the lines down through one of the three water relief holes and it worked perfectly.

 

Found some nice spots to wire it in too. I used the pink wire at the ignition for the power to the fuel pressure gauge and shift light. That way it does not cycle off when you start the car.

I tied into the tach using the white wire in the bundle to the left of the steering column.

As for the lights on the gauges, I removed the standard bulb lamps and replaced them with Blue LED's and tied them into the brown wire in the harness that connects the trunk open/fog light control button.

I did not have to go even into the center console for wiring which I am all for keeping the additional wiring to a minimum.

 

Me too! Easy to get to and nobody can see it.