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Dyno tunes are also good for bone stock cars, since the factory setup is too rich. You can easily pick up 10rwhp by fixing that.
I had my stock LT1 tuned (with it's only mod being a catback) and picked up 11rwhp. But most importantly, the tuner was able to increase my midrange torque by 30 ft lbs! That is a difference you can feel! The engine runs much better too, and throttle response off idle is much snappier.
I got 12 hp and 9 ft lbs of torque after tuning my intake/exhaust-only car. I think it is worth it. My tune cost under $150, so the hp/cost ratio compares favorably to a bolt on mod, and the car feels faster to me. By advancing the timing, you can definitely make more power on a mostly stock car, and get a flatter torque curve above 5000 rpms. I highly recommend Total Engine Airflow in Bowling Green. Drop the car off, tour the factory and plant, and pick it up at the end of the day. Talk with Brent and/or Brian, they know their business.
My experience was a little different. I have slowly moded my 98 A4 vert since buying it new. Intake, ported TB, Hypertech, headers, exhaust etc. Occasionally I would get a 'Check Engine Light" and the codes were lean Air / Fuel Ratio. Reset and they gennerally didn't return for months. When I upgraged to the LS6 intake manifold the Check Engine Light was constant. Same deal - Lean codes. I upped the fuel pressure from 54 to 59psi and took it in. The A/F was pushing 16:1. Whoa! And that was after the fuel pressure increase. The Dyno tune started with fixing the A/F (HP down 18). It took the next couple hours to get back that power and keep th A/F at 12.7. Net result - No power gains (331RWHP, 345RWTQ) but I'm not roasting my pistons now either! I don't recall the begining TQ numbers but the mid rage RPM seems stronger - Not positive though.
Did a whole stack of mods (224 cam, LS6 heads, kooks headers, intake mods...etc...etc). Picked up 15RWHP with a $550+ tune. IMO I would take this money and get 100+HP with some NOS!
Just get your A/F ratio checked and if thats OK (was for me)...dont worry about the tune.
If you're gonna do any mods in the next 6 months or so, wait.
Remember, your tune is only as good as your tuner. Some are great and some suck, badly. They'll just lay a generic tune on you and send you on your way.
In general, it's very difficult, if not impossible, to say what improvements you should see. How can you later take issue with your results when nothing was ever promised? You putting your faith and cash in the tuner while having very little recourse. Make sure to check around and fine someone with proven results before laying down your hard-earned green.
I thhink it is worth doing just to cool the car down. My car runs at 180 all the time now opposed to the 220 it used to. The tune I got picked up 25 rwhp and 30 ft./lbs. Go ahead and do it. I would change out your thermostat. Kaley
Its schedule with Mike Norris, I have total faith in him. I have sent him an email asking the same question, when he replies. I'll post it. I am probably going to get it done and he isn't cheap, but if you want quality work you'll pay for it. I also will post the results before and after so others who have the same question can view. This will also keep the tuners honest on what to expect.
many of the top tuners charge a "one time fee" ... tune with LS1-edit and tech 2 and whenever you need to take back they recalibrate for for no cost or at worst $50....and if you catch a "special tune day" you can get for as low as $400...
Had my 2001 LS1 tuned. Gained 12 hp and 10ft lbs of torque..not alot but some. The tuner was able to elminate the fat (rich) spots on low end and and richen up the lean on top. He also was able to take out 4 degrees of spark knock (every degree cost hp). I had him set the fans for 200 vice 235. The car runs much better. $400.00 is still a lot of money, but there were positive gains. Strip times (first time for me, with 90 degree temepratures and 90% humidity yielded 13.3 / 108 times. I can credit some of that to the tune.