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After 12 months of slamming the door to get the pass window to work on my 2000 coupe, I have finally decided to change the lift mechanism.
Is there anything to watch out for when doing this.
I've already had the door panel off, to find power is getting to the motor, but the motor just gets hot, but doesn't operate at all
Thanks in advance
I just did this on my '00 coupe about two months ago. Its pretty straightforward. There is a link somewhere describing process, do a search here. Be sure to mark the glass with a felt tip marker so realignment is not a problem. I drew a line along the outside window, using the weatherstriping as a guide.
From: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
Nobody knows crap.
I just recently did this.
You'll need:
butter knife
10mm socket with an extension
Electrical tape
First, start off by removing the obvious
Inner door handle cover
Remove the passenger window switch plate
In the door pull area, there is a plastic cover, remove that cover
After removing the cover there are two bolts, remove those
Take the butter knife and wrap it in tape or a shirt and pry at the bottom of the door panel. All the plastic pop screws are in those area. It will take some force to get it off.
Once you get the door panel off, you need to remove the plastic sheeting. It's held on by dum dum. Just make sure not to fold it over or get that stuff on your clothes. It will not come out!
Everything is practically exposed.
Take the electrical tape and mark where the window sits. Do the front and rear for height(level) and also mark a spot for where the door glass sits for front back position.
Now the disassembly.
Now, there are two bolts that pinch together that secure the window. One front one rear. There is a hole cut in the panel to access these. They are covered by black patches. Just pull the corner of these patches until you can fit the 10mm socket through.
Lift the door glass out and lay in the grass or something soft.
Now the actual mechanism.
Go ahead and undo the three bolts holding the motor/regulator in place. It's in the middle of the door.
Now, there are 4 bolts left. 2 on each side. The ones towards the hinge, the top one sticks out towards the interior, the bottom one to the ground (looking at the replacement part makes it easier). The rear one, the top bolt sit up to the sky (if I remember) and the bottom one towards the interior.
Reach your arm in and unplug the connector for the motor and wiggle it out.
Sheesh! I can't believe that this is happening to somebody else besides me. These window motors must be really cheap. I have only 30,000 miles on my car and I hardly use the passenger side window and the motor is out. I just got the new motor in today and will be changing it this weekend.
Thanks Jeffvette for taking the time to post the info, I really appreciate it.
Remove door panel and bang on window motor w/ small hammer, vice grips, etc. while holding window switch in down position w/ ignition on. I have fixed mine at least 3 times this way, last time about a year ago and it's still working fine. I also fixed a friends this same way. Before replacing a motor/regulator this is certainly worth a try. I think the root cause is lack of use of the passenger window. Good luck.
My car is an '02. I've placed both regulators in the first year. Today the passenger regulator went out again. My car is a daily driver and both windows go up and down just about every day. Back to the dealer once again to get it replaced.
I'm putting together the list of things that need to be fixed this time and it also includes the erratic gas gauge problem. :-(
I've been doing the door slam/bang on motor thing for the last18 months, and it's a pita. Guess it's time for a new regulator, but on the lack of use thing, my Dodge pickup windows operate every time even when left for months without use, so it's probably a quality problem that GM need to address