Since I had my heads/cam package done, I have had idle issues. I did the idle relearn, but it didn't help. My 2000 Hardtop will die as soon as I push in on the clutch after backing it out of the garage. It is pretty annoying and embarrasing. I think I remember reading that some on the Forum have drilled a small hole in the TB plate to take care of it, any details on that procedure? It runs fine after it has warmed up, but that is only after 5-10 minutes of driving. Even if I let it warm up that same amount of time in the drive or garage, is still wants to die if I push in on the clutch after backing it out, or coming to a stop at a stop sign. It stumbles, tries to catch itself and then dies. I have to heel/toe it and keep reving it up if I don't want it to die...any suggestions. I am really annoyed that I have spent so much money and continue to have these problems. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Have you had it tuned yet?

 

Hi Craig,

I apologize if there has been an issue with stalling since we did the heads/cam install. I know it can be about as annoying as it gets. We generally do not have any issues with the smaller cams as this is the same cam that is in my C5. I do not remember if the last time you were down for the clutch install if you mentioned stalling, but I know you wanted to re-dyno with the new Vararam and we did not have an opportunity since it showed up late and your schedule was tight. If you mentioned the stalling then I fugged up, my bad for sure. We were still tight on time.

I have had to drill a hole in some TB's and others are okay. On your car I can not remember 100% for sure since it was a while ago. One of two things to do here. Let me know if you can come down and we will get it handled. it could also be another issue potentially with a sensor, but most likely not if it has been this way since we did the install.

Second, I know coming down from the new location is a bit time consuming, so if you wanted to check for a hole in the TB, you can do that. If there is no hole, put approx a 1/8" hole in the lower center area of the TB blade to start and see how that works. Also having some kind of scan tool to see what the actual throttle angle is before and after is best to be sure you do not go too big.

Let me know or try to call me. I have still been busy with the shop work, still setting things up and now catch up after the hurricane, so it may be tough to catch me in the office. But I will call you ASAP if I get a message.

Mike Norris

 

My 02 Z06 was doing the same thing after a MTI H/C, but Jayson drilled the hole in the TB during the tune, and it works fine now. No idle issues.

 

I know what your going thru....after Mike did my cam all was good car ran great....then back in May I installed an aftermarket airbridge and it seemed to be no problem.....well for the last few months I sometimes have the idle drop off to the point where the car would stall. I took it to Mike and he checked everything out and made a minor adjustment and I drove the car awhile no problem. Well the problem is back Its nothing I can't live with its just annoying....a friend suggested that perhaps there is some issue caused by the airbridge as I didn't have the problem prior. I am beginning to think he is right. There is no particular ryhme or reason to when this happens and when Mike checked out the car everything was good to go and no codes so as it usually goes you can't fix what ya can't see. I don't see how the airbridge could be causing the problem but it is the only thing that was added after so maybe there is a leak or something and more air is getting in somewhere if it shifts or something while driving...I dunno. Other than that couldn't be happier...

 

It looks like the shop that did the work for you is on top of it and willing to make it right Great customer service

I also have a head ( AFR 205 ) cam ( 224/228 114 LSA +1 ) package on my 04 Z06 with the work performed by L.A.P.D. and my idle is fine for that cam.

I think when you go back to the shop that did the work and have it re-tuned, I'm sure they will get it working for you

You might want to install your stock air box if your air box on the VaraRam is larger than your stock one.

I also have the VaraRam B2.

I switched out the aftermarket air box to my stock air box just to see what would happen and I did notice a slight difference in my idle, was slightly smoother, not as lopey.

I'm not saying this will change anything for you, but 15 min. to do the job and a road test will give you some answers.

 

I have my Head and cam now for about 2 months and no Idle issues. Idle is about 900 rpm after warm up. Sounds to me you need a little further tuning and that will probably square it away.

 

Here's a pic of my drilled TB to show you what Mike is talking about. It's simple to do and should smooth your idle out sufficiently. Be careful and start small though. Start with .060" and work your way up so as not to overdrill.

 

This is an issue I would really like more tech details about because...

My car does this at startup. Ever since I had my cam installed, a 228/588 @ 114 single pattern cam, I have had some of this problem. 21st Century here in Dallas has retuned it and it got better.

However, every time I start the car I have to wait and see if I am going to have to feather the throttle until the car can settle into a proper idle. If I just hit the key and touch nothing else it often starts, runs up the idle a little bit and then drops down to 300 or 400 rpm. Then it struggles to run for a few seconds after which, the idle comes up to normal and the car runs just fine.

All of this happens with the A/C off. Turn it on and you can forget about starting the car and keeping it running without some very touch and go throttle work.

It's more likely to start and idle properly when it's warm but that's not something you can depend on. When it's cold I will have to feather the throttle to get a proper idle.

I get the distinct impression that the problem is that the PCM can not adjust the throttle position fast enough during the startup process. I wish these cars had an idle set screw. Drilling the butterfly may be an answer but what if it's not? I would have a hole I can't cover up.

Helppppppppppppppppppppppppppp!!!!

 

I tried to drill my throttle body to fix an idle problem and in my case it did not help and only made the problem worse so I wound up welding the hole closed

 

LeMansblue- 21st put the same cam in my 01 M6 recently. It was doing the same thing at idle. Andy was able to tune it out of mine and fixed it right up. I just dropped by the shop to ask about the problem and they jumped right on it and had it worked out in about 15 minutes.
No problem at all since. Hope you get yours worked out

 

[QUOTE=LeMansBlue04]This is an issue I would really like more tech details about because...

My car does this at startup. Ever since I had my cam installed, a 228/588 @ 114 single pattern cam, I have had some of this problem. 21st Century here in Dallas has retuned it and it got better.

However, every time I start the car I have to wait and see if I am going to have to feather the throttle until the car can settle into a proper idle. If I just hit the key and touch nothing else it often starts, runs up the idle a little bit and then drops down to 300 or 400 rpm. Then it struggles to run for a few seconds after which, the idle comes up to normal and the car runs just fine.

All of this happens with the A/C off. Turn it on and you can forget about starting the car and keeping it running without some very touch and go throttle work.

It's more likely to start and idle properly when it's warm but that's not something you can depend on. When it's cold I will have to feather the throttle to get a proper idle.

I get the distinct impression that the problem is that the PCM can not adjust the throttle position fast enough during the startup process. I wish these cars had an idle set screw. Drilling the butterfly may be an answer but what if it's not? I would have a hole I can't cover up.

Helppppppppppppppppppppppppppp!!!![/QUOTE


Why dont you just take the car to Andy and let him tune it? Andy is a perfectionist, and I wouldnt think he would let this happen.Ive never seen a car leave that place with an issue. Wash

 

Thanks for everyone's replies and suggestions. Mike Norris has always been great to work with, and he has always bent over backwards to make things right. The only problem is that I now live over 450 miles away, and just don't have the time to drive 7 hours one way right now to let him fix it, which is why I was soliciting for some other ideas. I will try and drill the TB when I get some time. I had planned on Mike doing another dyno tune to fix the problem when I had him put my clutch in, but he was forced to wait for some parts which was beyond his control (my warranty company sent the parts to him late to fix my fuel gauge problem, and Vararam was several days late delivering the B2 as well) so he just didn't have time to get the dynotune done. I had to go to a business trip in Charolette, NC, so I drove from Pensacola to Orlando, left the car with Mike, and then flew back in on a Sunday to drive back home, and I had to be at work on Monday. So Mike went out of his way to open his shop on a Sunday for me so I could pick up my Vette and drive it home. Just wanted to make sure that everyone knew I wasn't upset with Mike, I will continue to only let him work on my Vette, it is just a real pain to get there since I moved to Pensacola. Thanks again Mike, and also Patches for the photo, and for everyones input.
Craig

 

I think the fact that your car has a manual trans make the problem easier to tune out. When you start an M6 the car is in neutral and there is no resistance. In my A4 the car has to turn the converter and that offers resistance. With the low vacuum levels we see with our cams this makes the automatic very tricky to tune. This is why I always tell guys who want a lopey cam in an A4 that they are going to need a converter.

I'm not sure anything can be done. Andy is very good and has worked on it more than once. It got better each time, but after a while I just learned to deal with it. I am afraid there may only be so much one can do.

Does anyone know of anyone else with the 228/588 cam in an A4? If so what are they seeing from their cars?

 

I'm with you as far as Mike is concerned...when I had my cam installed Mike met me on a Sunday evening to take my car in. Like I said I am gonn atry the stock airbridge (if I can find where I put it)

 

I have the G5X3 in my A4 coupe. LG put in the cam and did the tune. Mine is doing the opposite, cold my car starts and runs great. Once it is warm, it starts but tries to idle at 300-400 rpm then dies. So I have to start it, give it some gas then put it in gear, once it is in gear it surges like crazy.


After about 300 feet of driving it acts normal and idles fine at 850 in drive. I have the stock converter though. After reading your post I definitely need to take it back in for a re-tune. I thought drilling a hole in your TB was bad? I could have sworn I saw a post on here about this and everone said no to drilling a hole.

 

thats a tuning problem that LG should be able to take car of

if they cant, let me know

 

I have an '98 A4 with a 224 .581 114 cam and a 2800 TC. It was installed and tuned by 21st CMC. Had zero idle issue -750RPM in Drive and 950RPM in Park/neutral for the first several weeks. I upgraded the dual cone K&N air filters to a cold air Vortex set up. Now idles @ 700RPM in gear and 900RPM in park/neutral. The car has not stalled but it has stumbled a couple times. Pretty minor compared to what I'm reading here and not an issue for me.