I need help with check engine light & error codes...
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,155
Likes: 154
From: The Arid Sunny Desert
I need help with check engine light & error codes...
Earlier this morning I drove for approx. 45 minutes with no problem. Then I restarted the car after sitting for an hour and had a check engine light. I checked the history codes when I stopped and came up with a 10-PCM P0332H, which is a knock sensor. I disconnected the battery for 3 hours, let the car sit and then re-started with no light. I drove 30 miles with no light. Then I parked and started her back up 15 minutes later and the check engine light came back on. Once home I looked up the error codes and now the code reads 10-PCM P0332H C. Would this code trip the check engine light? I recently filled up fuel at a different gas station could that be the problem? Should I run the tank dry and re-fuel at my regular station and then disconnect the battery to clear the light, or should it go off by itself? How can I tell if the sensor is bad or if it just because of bad fuel? I am not noticing any loss of power. Thanks for your help. Other error codes are 28-TCS C1255H & 55-SDM B1001H.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: bloomfield nj
the pcm is not seeing the signal it expects from the knock sensor[rear one,closest to firewall].sounds like you have water in it[tech bulletin on this].this also a 2 drive cycle fault[will set the 1st time without turning on the light].you're in my neck of the woods and with all the rain we have had lately,you may have gotten water in[or if wash your engine],the connector for the knock sensors is in the back near the firewall on the intake
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,370
Likes: 8
From: Slave to the evil empire
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04
Originally Posted by dpd
the pcm is not seeing the signal it expects from the knock sensor[rear one,closest to firewall].sounds like you have water in it[tech bulletin on this].this also a 2 drive cycle fault[will set the 1st time without turning on the light].you're in my neck of the woods and with all the rain we have had lately,you may have gotten water in[or if wash your engine],the connector for the knock sensors is in the back near the firewall on the intake
The sensor is fairly cheap, I think I paid around $25 thru GM parts direct.
The TSB says to build up the area around the sensor with RTV to keep water from spilling into the hole, so make sure you do this and also after you read the codes and the DIC says "manual diagnostics" all you have to do is scroll thru the modules and hit the "reset" button to erase the code disconnecting the negative battery terminal will do nothing to the codes
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,155
Likes: 154
From: The Arid Sunny Desert
[QUOTE=runamuk]
The sensor is fairly cheap, I think I paid around $25 thru GM parts
Is it possibly caused by bad fuel because I washed the engine over 2 weeks ago and had no codes until yesterday. Can the light possibly go off by itself once it detects better gas or is the sensor shot?
The sensor is fairly cheap, I think I paid around $25 thru GM parts
Is it possibly caused by bad fuel because I washed the engine over 2 weeks ago and had no codes until yesterday. Can the light possibly go off by itself once it detects better gas or is the sensor shot?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,370
Likes: 8
From: Slave to the evil empire
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04
Originally Posted by Pewtavert
Is it possibly caused by bad fuel because I washed the engine over 2 weeks ago and had no codes until yesterday. Can the light possibly go off by itself once it detects better gas or is the sensor shot?
It may have taken 2 weeks for the water to seep into the sensor or the water from 2 weeks ago may have put it on the ragged edge, try to erase the code and drive it for a week or 2 to see what happens, if nothing else pull the intake and replace the sensor it's really not that hard.
heres a good link where you may find help to guide you thru the process of removing the intake www.ls1howto.com
EDIT - I found the actual link http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...03dae032ec9f88
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: bloomfield nj
the fault has nothing to do with fuel.the pcm is not seeing the signal from the knock sensor as it should.more than likely the damage is already done.you will have to remove the intake,eplace both knock sensor,if the harness isn't corroded it can be reused,if not you will hve to replace it,reseal the cavities and clear the fault.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,155
Likes: 154
From: The Arid Sunny Desert
Originally Posted by dpd
the fault has nothing to do with fuel.the pcm is not seeing the signal from the knock sensor as it should.more than likely the damage is already done.you will have to remove the intake,eplace both knock sensor,if the harness isn't corroded it can be reused,if not you will hve to replace it,reseal the cavities and clear the fault.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,370
Likes: 8
From: Slave to the evil empire
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04
Originally Posted by Pewtavert
Sounds like a labor intensive job. What happens if I just drive around with the light on? Will there be any degradation in performance?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 0
From: bloomfield nj
unfortunatley,probably not.if the water got down into the valley cover,the damage is done.the sensor/harness is probably already corroded.with no knock signal coming back,the pcm can not control ignition timing.if you do grap bad gas,you will know it because it will ping badly because the pcm will not pull out any timing or be cylinder selective.short and sweet,fix it.
