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OK i was looking at the area where air filer is.I cannot run varam or vortex because my car is daily driver in rain/sleet or snow.I do not want the water lock issue yes i sometimes drive in ankle deep water.
This is what im thinking. Remove stock air filter assembly im going to be putting dual pod or something like it. Making a enclosure that meets the sides (where headlights are) and sealing against the shroud at radiator and the front fascia with space for air filter inside and maf inside against shroud area coupler connects outside to inside engine compartment.the air inlet will be the whole area where the filter is now all upward surfaces will be sealed and also the part toward the engine .Now everything to the nose will grab are from the z06 screen area cold air i think.Ill lay this out in auto cad to give a visual but before i spend that time wanted to know if it was worth a try or scrap the idea.
It would be like vortex but get air from front of car not radiator area.
I know it rains a hail of a lot in the DFW area so you gotta be careful with water seals. Have you already installed the hood seal? Curious how that works with a lot of rain. Seems like it does the trick when I'm washing the Vette.
I installed the Stinger and made the radiator side cold air scoop mod. Works great for me, but no rain here in SoCal. I don't know how much water could make it up to my cold cold air scoop - seems pretty protected.
I think that the airbox idea is doable if you have the talent, but bringing in cold air from the front screens - doesn't that leave you with the same risk for water getting to the filter? There were some posts on VaraRam performance in lots of water - I seem to recall that they had pretty good results.
Why not remove your fog light covers and add Z06 screens. That'll allow cold air in, although the cold air will be dispersed throughout the engine bay, instead of being directed at the filter in a concentrated blast.
That way, if you dip the nose in momemtarily, the water entering the fog light area will rinse out from the bottom of the engine bay.
Changing the position of the MAF is not a good idea because it can change the airflow going to the TB. In designing the C5 GM engineering did a ton of testing and from that wrote Adaptive Strategy that made assumptions as to air and fuel flow under different engine conditions. Changing those airflow parts, especially larger ones, reduce the velocity and the A.S still functions as if the stock parts were being used and how it was programmed and does not change even with tuning. Most cases when the gas pedal is lifted and goes into “decel” with the larger airflow parts confuses the PCM and it is adding or removing fuel when it really did not have to.
What about 2 smaller scoops on each side of the Warhead filter, rather than 1 directly underneath? I think that the cold air would still come in at a close proximity to the filter, however, the liklihood of water ingestion should be reduced as there would not be a direct charge into the filter. A little space may be all it takes for the water to disperse. Any thoughts?
I made a Smoked lexan cover for my blackwing. there are some opennings for the bra along the front edge where it attached to the
front bumper with the black pins. the rear is tucked under the lip of the rad. cover. see pics at http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/elecbluvette/my_photos
I made a Smoked lexan cover for my blackwing. there are some opennings for the bra along the front edge where it attached to the
front bumper with the black pins. the rear is tucked under the lip of the rad. cover. see pics at http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/elecbluvette/my_photos
Nice work! Did you start with an out-of-box item and trim it down or did you fabricate the box from scratch?
I can tell you I have the vararam system and have now gone through two hurricanes with a daily driver and not one hint of mosture in the filter. Frances dumped eight inches of water in about three hours and the interstates were very loaded with water. No mosture! Now if you drive your vette into a puddle deeper than the nose....guess what you get hydrolock no matter what system you use including stock. If you use your head and don't drive into a stream you will not have a problem.
IMHO
Ruler89
I made a template out of some large paper. Then I drew one up in autocad. I plotted a full size sheet to verify. then I gave a full size sheet with the bend lines marked on it to a fabricator, they just traced it on a sheet of smoked lexan, cut it and bent the two ends down about 70 deg. and drilled the front mounting holes.
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