Instructions for installing Hotchkis swaybars
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 321
Likes: 1
From: Hagerstown Md
Instructions for installing Hotchkis swaybars
I bought a set of new (unused) Hotchkis swaybars (front, rear and endlinks) without the instructions. Can someone please forward the instructions to me.....plus any other tips I made need to install them on a stock 04 Coupe.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 30
From: Oak Harbor WA
One bit of advice with those endlinks: Once you tighten them down they are done. I'm not sure how they can be considered adjustable if the bolts are damaged by the nuts. As per the instructions they state not to loosen them once tightened.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
From: DFW tx
I have loosened mine several times, they still stay tight despite the instructions saying not to loosen them. I was woried about this when I had to remove the sway bars a while ago and inquired about new hardware. I was told I had to buy all new end links at a cost of $300 or so. I took my chances, and all has been fine, the sway bars have remained noise free and tight.
You may be able to re-use the aluminum end-links that came on your '04, you may want to get a concensus from the forum because I cannot confirm this.
For installation, you want to install them with the suspension loaded, which means you need to drive onto ramps the wheels for the sway bar you are installing. I have the adjustable links pretty close to all the way screwed in. I have not read anything off the forum, or from Hotchkis telling what longer vs. shorter end links give you. It seems like a toss up. Remove the old sway bars and install the new ones. I recommend using some lithium grease in the sway bar bushings (black rubber things) even though they come pre-lubed. Tighten the nut to set the end links to desired length. Also, take the end links, spray them with brake cleaner and lube them with lithium grease. I took these steps and have had zero noise with the bars.
Once you have the sway bar partially installed with the bushing mounts tightened, install the end links. Make sure you install both end links before you start to tighten them. If you have issues, you can use a floor jack under the A-arm to manipulate the suspension to get the end link to fit. Here is where I had the major problem installing the sway bars. I can't remember if it was the front or back, but the end link bolts would not fit through the lower A-arm mount. I had to drill them out slightly so I could get the end link bolts to fit. It was frustrating. The order for the end links goes: end link, washer, plastic thing, washer, sway bar or A-arm (depending on upper or lower), washer, lock nut.
I found it much easier to torque the end links by jacking up the car and removing the wheels. When you torque, make sure you torque slowly, as the plastic things flex, and the lock nut will give false torque readings. I had a lot of noise from the bars (rattling) that was easily cured by retorquing in a slow manner.
There is a torque spec PDF document which will give you all the torque specs you need that you can find on the forum. If you can't find it and need a copy, or have additional questions, email me. I just replaced my base springs with Z06 springs, so I should be able to answer any questions.
The torque specs I think you will need are:
Front: sway bar insulators: 43 ft/lbs
end link nuts: 53 ft/lbs
rear: sway bar insulator upper: 49 ft/lbs
sway bar insulator lower: 70 ft/lbs
end link nuts: 53 ft/ lbs
You may be able to re-use the aluminum end-links that came on your '04, you may want to get a concensus from the forum because I cannot confirm this.
For installation, you want to install them with the suspension loaded, which means you need to drive onto ramps the wheels for the sway bar you are installing. I have the adjustable links pretty close to all the way screwed in. I have not read anything off the forum, or from Hotchkis telling what longer vs. shorter end links give you. It seems like a toss up. Remove the old sway bars and install the new ones. I recommend using some lithium grease in the sway bar bushings (black rubber things) even though they come pre-lubed. Tighten the nut to set the end links to desired length. Also, take the end links, spray them with brake cleaner and lube them with lithium grease. I took these steps and have had zero noise with the bars.
Once you have the sway bar partially installed with the bushing mounts tightened, install the end links. Make sure you install both end links before you start to tighten them. If you have issues, you can use a floor jack under the A-arm to manipulate the suspension to get the end link to fit. Here is where I had the major problem installing the sway bars. I can't remember if it was the front or back, but the end link bolts would not fit through the lower A-arm mount. I had to drill them out slightly so I could get the end link bolts to fit. It was frustrating. The order for the end links goes: end link, washer, plastic thing, washer, sway bar or A-arm (depending on upper or lower), washer, lock nut.
I found it much easier to torque the end links by jacking up the car and removing the wheels. When you torque, make sure you torque slowly, as the plastic things flex, and the lock nut will give false torque readings. I had a lot of noise from the bars (rattling) that was easily cured by retorquing in a slow manner.
There is a torque spec PDF document which will give you all the torque specs you need that you can find on the forum. If you can't find it and need a copy, or have additional questions, email me. I just replaced my base springs with Z06 springs, so I should be able to answer any questions.
The torque specs I think you will need are:
Front: sway bar insulators: 43 ft/lbs
end link nuts: 53 ft/lbs
rear: sway bar insulator upper: 49 ft/lbs
sway bar insulator lower: 70 ft/lbs
end link nuts: 53 ft/ lbs
