I just got done performing some brake work on my '99 Hardtop. I bleed the brakes in the following order:

Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front

When I started up the car to make sure the brake pedal was firm, it went to the floor. I tried pumping the brake pedal but it didn't improve. The DIC was also reporting "Service Active Handling" and "Service Traction Control". I've read several threads about the grounding issue with stainless lines.

Right now I'm concerned about the brake pedal not being firm, then I'll worry about the codes.

Any ideas guys? I'm getting a little nervous here.

TIA.

 

Looks like you did it in the right order, how many times did you go around? Mine took about 3 times around before it was good. Just going around once wasn't enough for mine.

 

I used the Motive pressure bleeder on mine without any problems. But I used the order specified in the service manual not the one you used. I also cycled the ignition switch in between the three rounds of bleeding. Just as a precaution to make sure the ABS unit was totally purged of air and old fluid.

 

The bleed sequance did change in '01

1997 - 2000 RR LR RF LF
2001- 2004 RR LF LR RF

If you pump the peddle to hard you could more air into the lines. Only push the peddle down once to set the pads against the rotors then use the power bleeders to push the fluid thought the brake lines.

SOme ppl have also used those minivacs to pull the fluid though. This is not really a good idea as the vaccum may also seperate the fluid in the brake lines and cause more air bubbles

When the peddle is still mushy then maybe a full brake system flush is in order. It will take about a quart to 1 1/2 quarts to do this. This would also be a great time to change to a DOT 4 brake fluid for a little more heat resisitance and less brake fade. Great Dot 4 fluids are Ford HD, Wilwood, ATE superblue/ gold ( not my fav but many ppl like it) Motrul, or Castrol SRF

Also if you do decide to do a full brake flush, this would also be a good time to put stainless steel brake lines on. SS lines help prevent the spongy brake peddle feel under repeated high stress braking. Some good line kits are Goodridge and Earl's. When I put my Goodridge on I did have to use some of the original brass fittings as the Goodridge ones where a bit short of threads. There are no grounding issues with stainless steel lines if installed correctly.

Remeber to have your wheels straight and not turned and on a level surface when you start the car up. Also the car and Active Handling do need at least a minute to warm up before driving.

Good luck

 

Sounds like there air in the lines or worse yet, in the ABS. If it's the latter then you'll need to power bleed it. This is assuming that you know how to bleed the brakes(no insult intended). Speed bleeders make life easy. It might be a good time to put them in.

 

I see you mentioned stainless steel lines in your post. Did you just put these on? Did you use new copper crush washers when mounting the lines to the caliper? Do you have any leaks anywhere?

It appears you followed the proper bleed procedure for a 99. Did you happen to run the master cylinder dry? If so you will need to bench bleed the master, and most likely have the ABS bled with a tech 2.

Another note, if you just put the stainless lines on, ensure you used the longer lines on the rear brakes, and the shorter ones up front. Also make sure the lines on the front run forwards, or they will scrape on the tires.

 

Did you add any fluid to the master cylinder during the bleeding process to prevent the mc from going dry and sucking air??

Insure there aren't any leaks. Mushy pedals mean air in system plain and simple.

You put on new lines....how long was the system open?

 

I think you should stick to the RC's