Trick to changing differential fluid?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Trick to changing differential fluid?
I tried and tried to get the bolt out of the back of the differential last night and it never budged. I didnt' even try the drain plug yet. I tried taking the exhaust off on that side and still couldn't get enough room to twist that allen head wrench with enough force. I even tried putting a box head wrench on the allen wrench with a cheater bar and it slipped out and slightly rounded off. Do I need a different tool or what? The dealership wants $40 to do this and it's getting more and more tempting.
Last edited by Ttop34; Sep 15, 2004 at 01:25 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 1
From: the West is the best
you can either use the allen wrench and cheater bar method or the easier use of a T55 Star bit socket and ratchet. Righty tighty, lefty loosie. I am assuming that you know that you will need some sort of pump to get the new fluid back in.
Last edited by 2ndVette; Sep 15, 2004 at 01:41 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,289
Likes: 1
From: the West is the best
in a pinch you could cram the differential fluid bottle behind and slighly above the differential and squeeze the fluid out of the tube and then into the differential. The down side to this method is that is damn hard to guess when you have hit 1.6 quarts or thereabouts of fluid. It is easier to manage the flow with a pump.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 35
From: Folsom Lake CA
Have you tried loosening the nut while the car is hot? That might make the difference.
You don't want to take a chance and strip that nut. That would cause a world of hurt. If the nut is already rounding, I'd give it up unless you can get an impact wrench on there. I just did my oil and had to use an air impact wrench to get the plug off. Scariest thing I've ever done.
But, if the plug is rounded, and it's only $40 to take it in, I'd dirty it up a bit to cover my tracks, then take it in, and act stupid, just in case it's frozen, you know what I mean? If they can get it loose and no one comments, then remind them NOT to tighten it too tight because you might want to use some other fluid later (good story). Then when you get home, make sure it's not too tight. If it is take it back.
Just my 2 cents
You don't want to take a chance and strip that nut. That would cause a world of hurt. If the nut is already rounding, I'd give it up unless you can get an impact wrench on there. I just did my oil and had to use an air impact wrench to get the plug off. Scariest thing I've ever done.
But, if the plug is rounded, and it's only $40 to take it in, I'd dirty it up a bit to cover my tracks, then take it in, and act stupid, just in case it's frozen, you know what I mean? If they can get it loose and no one comments, then remind them NOT to tighten it too tight because you might want to use some other fluid later (good story). Then when you get home, make sure it's not too tight. If it is take it back.
Just my 2 cents
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
I'm more scared that they may not say anything at all and they round it off and then get it so tight that it will never come off again. I'll just go by Sears on the way home and get a T55 Star bit socket, I don't see how one of those would be able to slip.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Niceville FL
Try putting some pressure on which ever tool you choose and then crack it hard with a steel hammer. This acts like an impact wrench and will give you a much better chance than just constant pressure.
Good luck!!
Good luck!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
The only tool I had last night was a allen head wrench that was in the shape of an L that was 5" and 2" each side. The bolt is located somewhere that you can't exactly swing a hammer, you can barely put any direct force on it at all. When I do get an attachment for my socket set I'll have to use so many extensions to get some swinging room that I don't think the force of the hammer hit wouldn't be efficiently tranfered to the bolt. I'll give it a try though. Sad thing is the Torx set at Sears with the T55 is $33. I was hoping they would sell them individually.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Niceville FL
Originally Posted by Ttop34
The only tool I had last night was a allen head wrench that was in the shape of an L that was 5" and 2" each side. The bolt is located somewhere that you can't exactly swing a hammer, you can barely put any direct force on it at all. When I do get an attachment for my socket set I'll have to use so many extensions to get some swinging room that I don't think the force of the hammer hit wouldn't be efficiently tranfered to the bolt. I'll give it a try though. Sad thing is the Torx set at Sears with the T55 is $33. I was hoping they would sell them individually.
Autozone sells them individually. Do you have a 1/2" breaker bar? If so I think it will do just fine to crack it with a hammer. You may need a !/2" to 3/8" adapter. I'm very sure if you can crack it with a hammer it will break right loose.Isn't the plug on the very rear of the case with a straight shot down ?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Awsome, it's only $3.99 at Autozone. I have several breaker bars and adapters. Heck, there's even some massive sockets, 1 1/4" and bigger for working on tractors. I used some of those huge ratchets for stuborn spark plugs last weekend, lol.
The differential sits right on top of a flat suspention piece.
Oh, as for taking it off while hot, the manual says you need to check the fluid level when the housing is cool enough to put your bare hand on so I let it cool down plenty. Since I'm draining it, I'll try it hot tonight.
Thanks for all of the help everybody.
The differential sits right on top of a flat suspention piece.
Oh, as for taking it off while hot, the manual says you need to check the fluid level when the housing is cool enough to put your bare hand on so I let it cool down plenty. Since I'm draining it, I'll try it hot tonight.
Thanks for all of the help everybody.
Last edited by Ttop34; Sep 15, 2004 at 05:03 PM.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Niceville FL
I just went and checked mine. We are under a hurricne here in the panhandle so I don't have much to do. 
I looked straight in the back of mine and you can not go straigt down with the breaker bar, but it lokks like a 1/2" breaker bar, 12" to 18" extension, and a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and a good size steel hammer and you should be good to go!!
I looked straight in the back of mine and you can not go straigt down with the breaker bar, but it lokks like a 1/2" breaker bar, 12" to 18" extension, and a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and a good size steel hammer and you should be good to go!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 13
From: Laguna Woods, CA
Originally Posted by Ttop34
The plugs for the Tranmission were covered with red thread lock so I bet that's the problem. I'm not sure if I'll have time to get to this tonight but if so I'll post the results.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 38
From: King George VA
I remember mine being a pain the first time I took it off, but not that bad. Good luck getting it off.
Done that once or twice myself... 
For those of you who are willing to try the AMSOIL Gear Lubes (I use the Series 2000 75w90), AMSOIL now makes a nice pump that screws right onto its bottles that makes getting the oil up into the tranny or diff much easier and cleaner. Part number G-2039, Bottle Hand Pump.
(I won't tell you about knocking over a bottle of Redline, though.)
For those of you who are willing to try the AMSOIL Gear Lubes (I use the Series 2000 75w90), AMSOIL now makes a nice pump that screws right onto its bottles that makes getting the oil up into the tranny or diff much easier and cleaner. Part number G-2039, Bottle Hand Pump.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,879
Likes: 3
From: Hobart, WI
Take your new bottle of trans or rear end fluid and drill two two holes on the lid to tightly allow two pieces of 3/8"clear tubing go into the bottle to the bottom. Put one end in the rear end and gentlly feed low pressure from air nozzle into other hose and> bingo it will pump it quickly and neatly. I have done this a dozen times with the same standby tubing and it works flawlessly.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Well I'm throwing in the towel. I drove home and started on it while it was still hot. I used h2o ice to cool down the plug. Bought the T55 and used extentions and while pressing in hit the breakover bar with the hammer. I only mannaged to further round off the plug. I think mine are made out of lead or something, geez. Hopefully the dealership can get it off. I'll make sure that I don't have to pay if they can't get it off and let them go at it.
Thanks for everbody's suggestions, wish it worked out. Guess Chevy used the whole tube of thread lock on my car.
Thanks for everbody's suggestions, wish it worked out. Guess Chevy used the whole tube of thread lock on my car.
Last edited by Ttop34; Sep 16, 2004 at 12:25 AM.