Have 2 sets of keys..........Vette 2000. Changed batteries on both. one was working, the other didn't. After battery change, no problems for about 2 days, then one just packed up? Took it to my local service guy and he was unable to re-program it. Any Ideas?
Thx.

 

I had the same problem and this is how I was able to fix it. First do a "FOB TRAINING" sesson for both fobs. If the fobs are able to be trained but loose sync after a few/hours or days, the contacts inside the FOb case may be dirty or not be making good contact with the circuit board. I cleaned and re-positioned mine and that solved that issue.

You could also have a weak or bad fob batery. Change them out and train again.

If you have two fobs and only one is loosing sync, that fob may be bad.

If that fails, as strange as it might seem, if your car battery is weak or going bad, when you start the car the battery voltage falls below 9 VDC for a split second and the reciever/transmitter looses its fob codes.

If you check your DIC for error codes and you have LDCM and RDCM codes, your main battery could be weak or going bad.

 

sorry, but not very tech-orientated at present. What's "fob training".. in fact, what is a fob? :o I can fairly put 2 and 2 together and work this out, but could you break it down for me, bit by bit..........

 

FOB is the black thing on your key that you use to lock/unlock/open the hatch/sound the alarm (PANIC BUTTON)

FOB training setting up the electronic codes in the receiver to reconize your FOBs

Are you asking this question for real?

BC

 

Yep..it's for real. Trying to learn. You talking to a guy who can't put a fuse in without blowing himself up, but thx for the info.

 

I've had the problem before and knew my FOB batteries were still good. The sympton is no response from the doorlocks while pressing the lock or unlock buttons on the FOB. It usually requires FOB retraining from the status/programming buttons on the dashboard. You can also try pressing the FOB's lock and unlock buttons down at the same time for as long as 20 seconds or so until the car horn beeps once. This sometimes gets the FOB working again without having to retrain the FOB and at least proves if the FOB batteries are working or not. I've never heard an addiquate explanation why the FOBs sometimes quit working, but retraining always seems to get them back to normal when it happens.

 

ive recently lost my fob unlock i did the options procedure but it did not work. tryed thr other fob to and it would not respond either sat there for 1 min with lock and unlock down no action . guess im buying new ones

 

Sat in the car with the engine on..pointed the FOB at the dash and held onto the lock/unlock for about 1 minute and just about to give up when the alarm sounded...............and everything then worked.
Amazed....................just lucky I guess, until the next time

 

[QUOTE=Bill Curlee]

If that fails, as strange as it might seem, if your car battery is weak or going bad, when you start the car the battery voltage falls below 9 VDC for a split second and the reciever/transmitter looses its fob codes.
QUOTE]
Sorry to hijack this thread, but could a battery going bad cause electrical gremlins? My bat went dead from sitting last week, charged it up & behaves OK, but, the memory settings keep disappearing off & on as well as the fob not working right.Car starts fine.
Thanks.
Fred K.

 

Fred

I had some S E V E R E electrical problems with my 98 coupe. It was to the point that I was afraid to drive it in fear of being stranded!

I am NOT blaming this problem on the battery BUT, I can directly attest to the fact that when I replaced the battery (which for all intents and purposes started the car fine) many of my issues changed for the better!

If you pull up your DIC codes and get all sorts of LDCM, RDCM and your fob looses it mind frequently, it could in fact be a BATTERY problem. Many of the codes that the factory repair manual list explains that if the battery voltage drops below 9 VDC the module will stop functioning and set the failure code! I bet you are asking your self; "if my battery will start my car, how the hell is it dropping below 9 VDC"?

Well,, current is inversly porportional to voltage and when you crank your car you draw around 200-400 amps. If your battery is the least bit weak, the voltage will suffer and may (for a brief beriod of time), drop below 9 VDC.

If you suspect your battery may be the cause of your problem, I strongly recommend having it tested at Pepboys, Advance, Autozone or Sears with an "ADVANCED" battery tester!

Yes, your battery could be at fault. If it is over 3 years old, suspect it.

You may also have a case of the BAD GROUND syndrone! I can send you more info if you give me your e-mail address.

Bill C

 

e-mail sent
Fred K.

 

Hey Thanks for the info, I'm gonna check my battery 2morow.
A 99 with a stock battery might just be my FOB problem also.