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I just finished lowering my C5 on the factory bolts and was wondering how many miles to drive to let the car settle? I have an appointment to get an alignment tomorrow morning. The dealership is about 15 miles away. Is this enough time to allow settling?
Do I really need an alignment? The front only dropped 1/2" and the rear only 3/4".
Bullet,
The ideal way to lower a car is to drive it for a week or so and re-measure the height at each corner. Tweak from there. Drive another week or so and re-check the heights. Do this until you are happy with the look and ride.
Then take the car in to have the alignment checked.
Notice I said "checked".
There is no way to know if the car needs to be aligned until you have it checked.
And yes, a drop of 1/2" will change caster, camber and toe.
The amount of change is small but might take you out of specs.
Dave
I'll cancel tomorrow's appointment.
Driving it for a week won't hurt the tires if it's out of spec? Then again, I don't want to pay for mutiple alignments if it settles more over time.
I just finished lowering my C5 on the factory bolts and was wondering how many miles to drive to let the car settle? I have an appointment to get an alignment tomorrow morning. The dealership is about 15 miles away. Is this enough time to allow settling?
Do I really need an alignment? The front only dropped 1/2" and the rear only 3/4".
You'd be surprised how long it takes the front snub to settle in to its new position. Definitely wait a while, doing it now is a waste of time and money.
My car settled in after a few weeks... it was not as low as it is now after a few days///and I've only lowered it once and only using the stock bolts with no bushings cut.
Did your car change much after a week after you lowered it?
Camber and toe changed quite a bit. I can't imagine what settling would happen. The spring is not changed and the adjustment is with the bolts. I could see some settling if the were rubber involved.
Camber and toe changed quite a bit. I can't imagine what settling would happen. The spring is not changed and the adjustment is with the bolts. I could see some settling if the were rubber involved.
..And you'd be exactly right, there is rubber involved, in the form of the snubber on the adjustment screw in the front. That mushroom-shaped piece "wears" at an angle to the control arm, so when you turn the adj. screw (unless you pay attention and turn it exactly 360 degrees each time, like I have done in the past) you have to wait for the rubber snubber to adjust for the new angle. The rear has no such issue, and every time I've adjusted the rear it's always repeatable and matches from left to right.
what are we talking about ? a sixteenth of an inch ?
Nah, a bit more than that. My feedback was simply to give the CF folks some background as to the reasoning behind so many "I lowered my front end but it barely changed" posts we continually see here.
Bullet,
The ideal way to lower a car is to drive it for a week or so and re-measure the height at each corner. Tweak from there. Drive another week or so and re-check the heights. Do this until you are happy with the look and ride.
Then take the car in to have the alignment checked.
Notice I said "checked".
There is no way to know if the car needs to be aligned until you have it checked.
And yes, a drop of 1/2" will change caster, camber and toe.
The amount of change is small but might take you out of specs.
Dave
Dave nailed it!
Yup! I went the max on the stock bolts two years ago exactly like above. Werked Great! I even went the route opf adding the bump Steer kit and Hotchkiss for AutoX. Will never go back. The pic is lowered to the max and uncut rubbers with 17" rims and Hoosers. Sooo it is pretty slammed on the track. The Stock rims and tires bring it up about 3/8s for the street.