HELP!..Broken bolt between header and exhaust
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: From San Diego to Bentonville, AR.....WTF was I thinking?!? Oh yeah, that free state thingy!
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
HELP!..Broken bolt between header and exhaust
OK, you guys have been great helping me with so many things. Now I need a little more help. Today I installed my new ss tunnel plate (great mod), but when I was putting the nuts back on the bolt studs between the header (stk) and exhaust system, one stud broke. The bolts actually were very tight coming off and going on. So tight that it twisted a bolt in half rather than tighten all the way down (nope, not cross threaded, but should have used anti-seize).
Anyway, how difficult is it to replace these bolt / studs? Anyone have the process or instructions? Is it simple or do I have to disassemble the exhaust system again?
Also, the othe two bolts are tight and holding th exhaust on very tight. Do you think it's OK to drive till I get the new bolts and fix it?
Thanks for your help,
Brad
Anyway, how difficult is it to replace these bolt / studs? Anyone have the process or instructions? Is it simple or do I have to disassemble the exhaust system again?
Also, the othe two bolts are tight and holding th exhaust on very tight. Do you think it's OK to drive till I get the new bolts and fix it?
Thanks for your help,
Brad
Last edited by BradSW; Oct 24, 2004 at 12:35 AM.
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 5,730
Likes: 270
From: VENTURA Ca
I'll give you a replacement manifold at N/C if you want. It may be easier.
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NOW PARTNERING WITH AFFIRM TO OFFER INTEREST FREE FINANCING!
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CENTRIFUGALLY SUPERCHARGED C7
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING- SUPERIOR POWER
SUPERIOR PRICING- SUPERIOR CUSTOMER SUPPORT
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,589
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From: Fontana CA
Originally Posted by BradSW
OK, you guys have been great helping me with so many things. Now I need a little more help. Today I installed my new ss tunnel plate (great mod), but when I was putting the nuts back on the bolt studs between the header (stk) and exhaust system, one stud broke. The bolts actually were very tight coming off and going on. So tight that it twisted a bolt in half rather than tighten all the way down (nope, not cross threaded, but should have used anti-seize).
Anyway, how difficult is it to replace these bolt / studs? Anyone have the process or instructions? Is it simple or do I have to disassemble the exhaust system again?
Also, the othe two bolts are tight and holding th exhaust on very tight. Do you think it's OK to drive till I get the new bolts and fix it?
Thanks for your help,
Brad
Anyway, how difficult is it to replace these bolt / studs? Anyone have the process or instructions? Is it simple or do I have to disassemble the exhaust system again?
Also, the othe two bolts are tight and holding th exhaust on very tight. Do you think it's OK to drive till I get the new bolts and fix it?
Thanks for your help,
Brad
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
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From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
I too needed to replace several studs after taking the exhaust off several times. I used the nuts that bottom out on the manifold too along with plenty of liquid wrench. Someone posted the size and AutoZone part number of the studs. I'll try searching.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,002
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From: Hilton NY
To remove the nuts without breaking the studs you need to heat each of them red hot first and reheat them again if a lot of resistance is felt on the wrench. Heat and loosen one at a time. Trying to remove these nuts cold even with spray oil is asking for broken studs.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 565
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From: St. Louis MO
Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
I too needed to replace several studs after taking the exhaust off several times. I used the nuts that bottom out on the manifold too along with plenty of liquid wrench. Someone posted the size and AutoZone part number of the studs. I'll try searching.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Originally Posted by Fast one
To remove the nuts without breaking the studs you need to heat each of them red hot first and reheat them again if a lot of resistance is felt on the wrench. Heat and loosen one at a time. Trying to remove these nuts cold even with spray oil is asking for broken studs.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Hilton NY
I used propane and it took about 60-90 seconds to get the nut red hot but MAP gas would be faster. Aim the flame away from things that melt especially wires; placing aluminum sheet or foil over the wires will divert any stray heat away from them. Don't mistake the nut breaking free from the flange as breaking free from the stud, if the stud turns with the nut reheat! Also get the socket on as fast as possible after the torch is removed.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,338
Likes: 1,591
From: Western NY
There's some good advice here, and I'd like to add one more tidbit. Before heating the nuts, put a dab of anti-sieze on the stud, just below the nut. That way, when you're loosening the nut, it will thread through the anti-sieze, and spin off easier. (the anti-sieze won't burn off and smoke up like WD-40 or Liquid Wrench will)
