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Hummm.... Your lugs are pressed into the wheel hub flange. The rotor and the wheel slide over the lugs and both are held in place with the lug nuts. This is part of why torque the lug nut to the proper torque specs... and pattern is so important.
Proper lug nut torque'g will ensure all of the parts are properly centered.
Of course the rotor is limited in it's movement by the brake caliper bracket.... am I missing some thing? Was that your question?
The rotors are free floating. The only thing that holds them down tightly is the wheel (when it's torqued down). The brake pads should hold it pretty decently but that is not their function - more of a side effect than anything.
I actually did replace the pads when I replaced the rotors.
The movement is too much. When I stop you can hear a popping sound from the rotors rotating and hitting the lug bolts.
I torque the bolts down to 100 lbs. And I do it uniformly. I torque everyother bolt till they are all done, then I drive the car around the block and recheck. I also torque the wheel lock nut.
I checked my friends car recently when his wheels were off and there was no movement with his rotors on the car. There was also a metal "washer" that was around 2 of the lug bolts.
I actually did replace the pads when I replaced the rotors.
The movement is too much. When I stop you can hear a popping sound from the rotors rotating and hitting the lug bolts.
I torque the bolts down to 100 lbs. And I do it uniformly. I torque everyother bolt till they are all done, then I drive the car around the block and recheck. I also torque the wheel lock nut.
I checked my friends car recently when his wheels were off and there was no movement with his rotors on the car. There was also a metal "washer" that was around 2 of the lug bolts.
That "washer" is a retaining ring used to hold the rotor from falling off during its trip down the assembly line. They are not needed after production and, in fact, with many aftermarket wheels like CCWs they need to be removed for proper fit of the wheel. I'll bet your friend still had his OEM rotors on, right?
In other posts about this problem, symtoms like those you describe have turned out to be due to failure to clean the hub surfaces thoroughly when replacing the OEM rotors. Might check that if you haven't already...good luck.
There was also a metal "washer" that was around 2 of the lug bolts.
Those metal washers are for when the car is going down the assembly line at BG. Dealers should remove them when the car is prepped before sale. If not remove those washers to assure even wheel to rotor fit and no gaps.
I actually did replace the pads when I replaced the rotors.
The movement is too much. When I stop you can hear a popping sound from the rotors rotating and hitting the lug bolts.
I torque the bolts down to 100 lbs. And I do it uniformly. I torque everyother bolt till they are all done, then I drive the car around the block and recheck. I also torque the wheel lock nut.
I checked my friends car recently when his wheels were off and there was no movement with his rotors on the car. There was also a metal "washer" that was around 2 of the lug bolts.
The washers have been explained already, so I won't touch upon that.
Regardless, this popping sound you're hearing is not the rotor. Think about it. You have a wheel, torqued in 5 places down to 100ft/lbs (which is a lot), sandwiching the rotor to the hub. Do you really think it's moving? It's not.
Reach through your wheel spokes and try to move the rotor. Not a chance - right?
With the wheels off, there is movement of the rotor indepent of the lugs bolts.
Seems like there should be a spacer around the lug bolts to keep the rotors from moving.
The rotors are brand new from Napa. With the stock rotors, one had movement and one was fine.
What am I missing here?
Just to add another voice to try to calm your fears, this is normal. I use the NAPA rotors often and yes there is a little play in them on the studs with the wheel off, but again nothing holding them there either. Same with stock. When the wheel is on and torqued, they will be tight.
Those metal washers are for when the car is going down the assembly line at BG. Dealers should remove them when the car is prepped before sale. If not remove those washers to assure even wheel to rotor fit and no gaps.
The OEM wheels have a counterbore on the backside of the lug holes cut specifically to accomodate these lockwashers. This isn't a dealer prep issue. If iit was, GM could save a ton of $$ by not machining the wheels for them.
Aftermarket wheels, however, do not have this counterbore, and it is very necessary to remove the clips when bolting on custom wheels.