Jackstands And Rotor Removal
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 805
Likes: 0
From: Newport Coast, CA USA
Jackstands And Rotor Removal
I am replacing my rotors this weekend and was planning on putting my car up on 4 jackstands. Is it safer to just lift one wheel at a time for more stability when breaking that 21 mm caliper bracket bolt. Also, I just realizedc that I do not have the rear pad removal and replacement process. Can I use a C-clamp on the rear pistons or is it a screw type. If anyone has the pad removal and replace process for front and rear, I would appreciate it. I already have the front procedure, but if I could get it all posted in one place it would be helpful.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
I brake loose the lug nuts on all four wheels. Jack the rear of the car up and put two jack stands under frame or cross support just inside the lowere A arm connection point.
Then I put a jack under each side ( front jacking point) and raise each side up a little at a time, untill the front is high enough to put two more jack stands under the front part of the frame - cross mount bar between the wheels.
take off the wheels.
open the oil fill cap
put oil drain pan underneath and open the oil drain plug.
drain the oil
Then do all four rotors and brakes pads and bleed brakes
take off the oil filter
put ~1/2 Qt in new oil fliter and replace, replace the drain plug.
put in new oil, make sure it does not leak underneath the car.
put on all four wheels then lower car in reverse order of jacking it up.
So
Change your oil
change your rotors
change your brake pads
bleed your brakes
all at the same time -
60 min to do it all, if ppl dont come by to guack or chat.
2 hours if they do.
Have fun.
Most auto parts stores sell a little item to push the brake piston back into the cylinder. Need two of these little items for the front caliper. Only a few bucks each. Better then C-clamp.
Then I put a jack under each side ( front jacking point) and raise each side up a little at a time, untill the front is high enough to put two more jack stands under the front part of the frame - cross mount bar between the wheels.
take off the wheels.
open the oil fill cap
put oil drain pan underneath and open the oil drain plug.
drain the oil
Then do all four rotors and brakes pads and bleed brakes
take off the oil filter
put ~1/2 Qt in new oil fliter and replace, replace the drain plug.
put in new oil, make sure it does not leak underneath the car.
put on all four wheels then lower car in reverse order of jacking it up.
So
Change your oil
change your rotors
change your brake pads
bleed your brakes
all at the same time -
60 min to do it all, if ppl dont come by to guack or chat.
2 hours if they do. Have fun.
Most auto parts stores sell a little item to push the brake piston back into the cylinder. Need two of these little items for the front caliper. Only a few bucks each. Better then C-clamp.
Last edited by AU N EGL; Oct 28, 2004 at 01:52 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 46,766
Likes: 5
From: Boynton Beach Florida
St. Jude Donor '07-'12, '20
My car is lowered so I always jack the front first, jacking under the cross member gets the whole front off the ground at one time. I then do exactly the same thing for the rear. As posted above break the lug nuts free first as you won't be able to do it when on the stands. As for the brakes same process front and rear.
Bob
Bob
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 71,447
Likes: 6
From: Miami bound
CI 4-5-6-7 Veteran
Once you get the car up on the stands, but before removing the tires, give the car a good shake. Worst case it falls off the stands onto the tires and you just saved your life by checking. If you did everything right it will barely move.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 46,766
Likes: 5
From: Boynton Beach Florida
St. Jude Donor '07-'12, '20
Originally Posted by THENAKEDi
And the car stays stable, even when yanking on those caliper bolts. I've never had a car up on jack stands like this, so I am wondering about the stability...
