Those of you who posted responses to last nights question about my brake line...
I got the new nut from the dealer today. I also got a line cutting tool. I asked what type of flare tool I needed and no one was sure. They said either the double flare tool or a mushroom flare. I looked at a couple places for both tools thinking one would work and I would return the other. The only on I could find was a double flare tool and no luck with the mushroom flare. Based off the description of both, it looks to me like it is a mushroom flare. Some of you had posted that it was double flare. Are you sure??
Also, I didn't know it would be a problem running the brake fluid dry and I did not plug the line. I put the drain pan under it being as I was planning on changing the brake fluid anyways. Well it is dry now thats for sure. I was at work all day and just now are seeing the posts about that hurting the master. Is my master toast now? What happens when it goes dry? I can't just refill it and bleed both the master and all lines at each axle?

Thanks everyone for the help.

 

I can't tell you about the flaring, but I don't think you'll hurt the master IF you disconnect the lines from the master cylinder and bench bleed the master. Then connect the brake lines back up and start bleeding the system.

THEN you're going to need to cycle the ABS system. Once you get a decent pedal then you need to go out and engage the brakes hard enough to activate the ABS. At that point you're probably going to get some air back into the system, so you'll have to re-bleed the system again. Your pedal feel will be a good guide.

Or, you can go to the dealer to bleed the ABS for you using the Tech 2 tools.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

 

Thank you VetteDrmr for the heads up about the master.

Does anone else know for sure as to whether the brake line needs a double flare or a mushroom flare?

Thanks,

 

Corvette Service Manual, Vol. one page 5-46 says use an ISO flare tool. This looks like a double flare that isn't fully compressed.
I've had similar problems occasionally with fittings that don't want to start. You don't want to damage your new braided hose, so use the old rubber hose and make sure the fitting starts straight and run it in and out until it feels normal, even if you have to use some force, what do you have to loose. The fluid seal is in the flare and the inner and outer seats of the fittings, not the threads. If this doesn't work, the best fix is to replace the hard line with a factory line, next choice is a "brake pipe" from an auto parts store, you'll have to bend to fit.

Good luck, Curt

 

From the manual:

This vehicle uses only ISO flares on the brake pipe connections. Do not attempt to use single or double lap flares when replacing the brake pipes

ISO Flares Replacement
Tools Required
J 29803-A ISO Flaring Tool





1) Obtain the recommended piping (bulk tubing) and steel fitting nuts of the correct size. The outside diameter of the piping is used to specify the size.


2) Cut the piping to length. The correct length may be determined by measuring the old pipe using a string and adding 3 mm (0.118 in) for each ISO flare.
Make sure the fittings are installed on piping before starting flare. Flare the pipe ends using J 29803-A .

3) Remove the burrs from the inside and outside diameter of the pipe with the de-burring tool.

4) Remove all traces of lubricant from the brake pipe and flaring tool (1).

5) Clamp the flaring tool body in a vise.



6) Select the correct size collet and forming mandrel for the pipe size used.

7) Insert the proper forming mandrel into the tool body. While holding mandrel in place with your finger, thread in the forcing screw until it makes contact and begins to move the forming mandrel. When contact is made, turn the forcing screw back one complete turn.

8) Slide the clamping nut (1) over the brake pipe into the correct collet (2). Leave approximately 19 mm (0.075 in) of pipe extending out the collet. Insert the assembly into the tool body. The brake pipe end must contact the face of the forming mandrel.

9) Tighten the clamping nut into the tool body very tight or the pipe may push out.

10) Wrench tighten the forcing screw in until it bottoms. Do not tighten the forcing screw or the flare may become over-sized.

11) Back the clamping nut out of the tool body and disassemble the clamping nut and collet. The flare is now ready for use.



12) Bend the pipe to match the old pipe using a tubing bender. Clearance of 19 mm (0.750 in) must be maintained from all moving or vibrating parts.