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Remove the front brake caliper from the vehicle. Refer to Brake Caliper Replacement - Front .
Caution
Do not place your fingers in front of the piston in order to catch or protect the piston while applying compressed air. This could result in serious injury.
Notice
Use clean cloths to pad interior of caliper housing during piston removal. Use just enough air to ease the pistons out of the bores. If the pistons are blown out, even with the padding provided, it may be damaged.
Remove the brake caliper pistons from the caliper bore by directing low pressure compressed air into the caliper bore through the fluid inlet hole.
Using a small wooden or plastic tool, remove the piston dust boot seals from the seal counterbores in the caliper and discard the boot seals.
Using a small wooden or plastic tool, remove the piston seals from the caliper bores and discard the piston seals.
Remove the bleeder valve and cap from the caliper.
Important
Do not use abrasives to clean the brake caliper pistons.
From: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
I use a small piece of a 2x4 to fit in between the pistons. Then pop them out the last bit. Like others said, keep your fingers out of the way.
For re-assembly, put the new seals in the bores, and lube with brake fluid on the bores and on the pistons themselves. I slide the dust boot down the actual piston, and then seat it in the caliper and push the piston in. Dust boot then slides up the piston to the piston head area.
If you get the GM rebuild kit, it comes with a lube for re-assembly. I used progressively thinner pieces of wood wrapped in a rag and pushed the pistons out until they contacted the wood, then changed the wood and moved them the next step. Mine took 75 psi to get moving
Thank you for all the great tips. I popped them out just fine with a big bath towel and 80psi. How hard is it to get the seals out with a plastic tool? Are they pressed in? Those that have bought the GM rebuild kit, about how much did it cost?
Got the rebuild kit from a supporting forum dealer (Fred Beans I think). As for the seal, I found that if you squeeze them to the center (deform them) with your fingers they pop right out. Careful of anything you stick in there. The GM kits will come with a special assembly lube that will make them go together like butter. The kits also include new bolts.
Seal just popped out, thanks. Well the original plan to anodize is down the tubes, so it looks like brake paint or powder coat. The anodizing is not consistant on castings, so I am not going to waste my time on the prep.