Alignment specs needed.........
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
Originally Posted by Richin Chicago
I would like to see more negative camber if you are not on runflats. Close to 1 degree if it is a mixed use car and up to 2 degrees if roadcourses are primary use. 1 degree should be standard from the factory on non runflats.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 231
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Richin Chicago
I would like to see more negative camber if you are not on runflats. Close to 1 degree if it is a mixed use car and up to 2 degrees if roadcourses are primary use. 1 degree should be standard from the factory on non runflats.
I have NON Runflats.
Daily driver. 95% freeway use. The rest is as hard as possible including canyon runs once a week and track 2-3 times per year (hopefully).
I want tires to LAST as long as possible.
Would you still increase negative camber?
So the front Caster and the Toe numbers are OK?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington NC
Originally Posted by Macinamouth
Thanks Richin and SDWYC C5
I have NON Runflats.
Daily driver. 95% freeway use. The rest is as hard as possible including canyon runs once a week and track 2-3 times per year (hopefully).
I want tires to LAST as long as possible.
Would you still increase negative camber?
So the front Caster and the Toe numbers are OK?
I have NON Runflats.
Daily driver. 95% freeway use. The rest is as hard as possible including canyon runs once a week and track 2-3 times per year (hopefully).
I want tires to LAST as long as possible.
Would you still increase negative camber?
So the front Caster and the Toe numbers are OK?
The Z06's came out with -1 as the OEM spec. I'm not sure how much the change would be from what you have now. But my change from 0 to just about -1 was VERY noticeable at high G loads.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 231
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Richin Chicago
The Z06's came out with -1 as the OEM spec. I'm not sure how much the change would be from what you have now. But my change from 0 to just about -1 was VERY noticeable at high G loads.
Rich
Listed below are the alignment parameters from my computer readout. This is from a pretty new Hunter DSP 611 unit.
Camber: -0.2 to -1.2 same for front and rear
Toe: -.06 to +0.14 Front
-0.11 to +0.09 Rear
He has me very close to center line. So Camber of -1.0 would be near the edge.
What do you think? Where is the "factory -1.0" comming from?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
Originally Posted by Macinamouth
Thanks Richin and SDWYC C5
I have NON Runflats.
Daily driver. 95% freeway use. The rest is as hard as possible including canyon runs once a week and track 2-3 times per year (hopefully).
I want tires to LAST as long as possible.
Would you still increase negative camber?
So the front Caster and the Toe numbers are OK?
I have NON Runflats.
Daily driver. 95% freeway use. The rest is as hard as possible including canyon runs once a week and track 2-3 times per year (hopefully).
I want tires to LAST as long as possible.
Would you still increase negative camber?
So the front Caster and the Toe numbers are OK?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 37
From: Burbank. CA.
Hey Howard
The specs look good to me. 95% freeway and you mention that you want the tires to last. As far as neg. camber goes just go test drive your car as hard as you usually do. Then check the arrows on your tires and see where the tire is wearing. Make sure you have about 30psi in your tires. If your wear is at or above the arrows great. If it's below the point by just a little that's okay too. If it's way under the arrow then either you put more air in or get more neg. camber. Your toe is fine, but most racers will toe OUT the front between .12 to .25 Looks like yours is toe in a little. Your rear is fine, but most racers will toe IN as much as .25 and maybe a little more.
My alignment for example.
Front.
-1 Neg camber.
.25 toe out.
Rear.
-3/4 Neg. camber
.25 Toe in.
Tire wear with all hard driving.
3500 miles. Kumho MX.
The specs look good to me. 95% freeway and you mention that you want the tires to last. As far as neg. camber goes just go test drive your car as hard as you usually do. Then check the arrows on your tires and see where the tire is wearing. Make sure you have about 30psi in your tires. If your wear is at or above the arrows great. If it's below the point by just a little that's okay too. If it's way under the arrow then either you put more air in or get more neg. camber. Your toe is fine, but most racers will toe OUT the front between .12 to .25 Looks like yours is toe in a little. Your rear is fine, but most racers will toe IN as much as .25 and maybe a little more.
My alignment for example.
Front.
-1 Neg camber.
.25 toe out.
Rear.
-3/4 Neg. camber
.25 Toe in.
Tire wear with all hard driving.
3500 miles. Kumho MX.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Wilmington NC
Originally Posted by Macinamouth
Rich
Listed below are the alignment parameters from my computer readout. This is from a pretty new Hunter DSP 611 unit.
Camber: -0.2 to -1.2 same for front and rear
Toe: -.06 to +0.14 Front
-0.11 to +0.09 Rear
He has me very close to center line. So Camber of -1.0 would be near the edge.
What do you think? Where is the "factory -1.0" comming from?
Listed below are the alignment parameters from my computer readout. This is from a pretty new Hunter DSP 611 unit.
Camber: -0.2 to -1.2 same for front and rear
Toe: -.06 to +0.14 Front
-0.11 to +0.09 Rear
He has me very close to center line. So Camber of -1.0 would be near the edge.
What do you think? Where is the "factory -1.0" comming from?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 231
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by mountainbiker2
Hey Howard
The specs look good to me. 95% freeway and you mention that you want the tires to last. As far as neg. camber goes just go test drive your car as hard as you usually do. Then check the arrows on your tires and see where the tire is wearing. Make sure you have about 30psi in your tires. If your wear is at or above the arrows great. If it's below the point by just a little that's okay too. If it's way under the arrow then either you put more air in or get more neg. camber. Your toe is fine, but most racers will toe OUT the front between .12 to .25 Looks like yours is toe in a little. Your rear is fine, but most racers will toe IN as much as .25 and maybe a little more.
My alignment for example.
Front.
-1 Neg camber.
.25 toe out.
Rear.
-3/4 Neg. camber
.25 Toe in.
Tire wear with all hard driving.
3500 miles. Kumho MX.
The specs look good to me. 95% freeway and you mention that you want the tires to last. As far as neg. camber goes just go test drive your car as hard as you usually do. Then check the arrows on your tires and see where the tire is wearing. Make sure you have about 30psi in your tires. If your wear is at or above the arrows great. If it's below the point by just a little that's okay too. If it's way under the arrow then either you put more air in or get more neg. camber. Your toe is fine, but most racers will toe OUT the front between .12 to .25 Looks like yours is toe in a little. Your rear is fine, but most racers will toe IN as much as .25 and maybe a little more.
My alignment for example.
Front.
-1 Neg camber.
.25 toe out.
Rear.
-3/4 Neg. camber
.25 Toe in.
Tire wear with all hard driving.
3500 miles. Kumho MX.
What freekin arrows are you talking about?? I have the Khumo's and I always run them at 30.
PS..I am a racer....at least in my own mind
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 37
From: Burbank. CA.
Originally Posted by Macinamouth
Steve
What freekin arrows are you talking about?? I have the Khumo's and I always run them at 30.
PS..I am a racer....at least in my own mind
What freekin arrows are you talking about?? I have the Khumo's and I always run them at 30.
PS..I am a racer....at least in my own mind
Look real carefull at the sides of your tires where they curve over to the tread. You will see triangles. That's your arrows. I know you are a racer, so what's up with conservative alignment. And the comment "I want my tires to last"
You run your tires at 30psi great. That's cold pressure. Just wanted to make sure you have them set all the same when you go do your test runs. Check your arrows. Let's us know what happens.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 231
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by mountainbiker2
Howard
Look real carefull at the sides of your tires where they curve over to the tread. You will see triangles. That's your arrows. I know you are a racer, so what's up with conservative alignment. And the comment "I want my tires to last"
You run your tires at 30psi great. That's cold pressure. Just wanted to make sure you have them set all the same when you go do your test runs. Check your arrows. Let's us know what happens.
Look real carefull at the sides of your tires where they curve over to the tread. You will see triangles. That's your arrows. I know you are a racer, so what's up with conservative alignment. And the comment "I want my tires to last"
You run your tires at 30psi great. That's cold pressure. Just wanted to make sure you have them set all the same when you go do your test runs. Check your arrows. Let's us know what happens.
THANKS
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 132
From: Plano TX
Wow, what an informative thread for alignment. I still have inner treadwear on my C5. I' dont want any treadwear at all but I don't want to sacrifice too much handling. Is there a happy medium? I have the Goodyear funflats.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
Originally Posted by David426
Wow, what an informative thread for alignment. I still have inner treadwear on my C5. I' dont want any treadwear at all but I don't want to sacrifice too much handling. Is there a happy medium? I have the Goodyear funflats.
It really depends how you plan on driving your car. If you mainly drive on freeways, give up the neg camber so you can keep your tires longer.
Just keep in mind, to much neg camber with GY runflats is a bad thing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 5
From: Lake Oswego, Near Portland Oregon
Originally Posted by Quacker
use this
tire pressure front 34
rear 32
ride ht. front 27-1/8
rear 27-1/2 to 27-3/4
caster front 5.5 deg
rear N/A
camber front -0.7 deg
rear -0.5 deg
toe front 1/64 out each side
rear 0.00
have fun
tire pressure front 34
rear 32
ride ht. front 27-1/8
rear 27-1/2 to 27-3/4
caster front 5.5 deg
rear N/A
camber front -0.7 deg
rear -0.5 deg
toe front 1/64 out each side
rear 0.00
have fun
These specs look pretty good to me. At one time I did a lot of chassis set up for the race shop I hung around in back in my 20s. I had a natural knack for comprehending how all the settings would interrelate and translate to driver descriptions of what a car would do on the track. With nicer weather now I have started to think about alignment to improve turn in. The timing of this thread is PERFECT for me! These numbers look like a nice compromise setup, I will try them out myself soon. Thanks for all the postings! Very educational and informative...timely too.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,838
Likes: 1
From: Volusia. Las Vegas FL, NV
What would you recommend for a c5 with Z06 sway, lowered 25.5 front and 26.5 rear, HAL sports Q1, Conti tires 275/19 F (19x9.5)and 305/20 R (20x11) (I know not a performance tire setup)?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
Originally Posted by David426
So is the camber (no negative camber) the only spec I need to worry about as far as inside tire wear is concerned?. Or are the other specs too.?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 231
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by mountainbiker2
Howard
Look real carefull at the sides of your tires where they curve over to the tread. You will see triangles. That's your arrows. I know you are a racer, so what's up with conservative alignment. And the comment "I want my tires to last"
You run your tires at 30psi great. That's cold pressure. Just wanted to make sure you have them set all the same when you go do your test runs. Check your arrows. Let's us know what happens.
Look real carefull at the sides of your tires where they curve over to the tread. You will see triangles. That's your arrows. I know you are a racer, so what's up with conservative alignment. And the comment "I want my tires to last"
You run your tires at 30psi great. That's cold pressure. Just wanted to make sure you have them set all the same when you go do your test runs. Check your arrows. Let's us know what happens.
I took a little run today. I am wearing exactly right to the point of the little triangles not past.
So I guess I will leave it as is.
Do all tires have these......
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 37
From: Burbank. CA.
Originally Posted by Macinamouth
Steve
I took a little run today. I am wearing exactly right to the point of the little triangles not past.
So I guess I will leave it as is.
Do all tires have these......
I took a little run today. I am wearing exactly right to the point of the little triangles not past.
So I guess I will leave it as is.
Do all tires have these......
As your tires wear out, you might go past the arrows a little. That's okay.
Steve
Race Director
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 17,684
Likes: 1,193
From: Phila PA, Bonita Springs FL
I have a 2000 with NON run flats..
I straight line drive my car only..
No road courses, no twisties, EVER!
Just STRAIGHT line.. (drag race, but I DO drive it 150 miles total to & from the track, when not going 1/4 mile at a time)
What is best for me, regular 2000 alignment specs?
or the Z06 specs?
I straight line drive my car only..
No road courses, no twisties, EVER!
Just STRAIGHT line.. (drag race, but I DO drive it 150 miles total to & from the track, when not going 1/4 mile at a time)
What is best for me, regular 2000 alignment specs?
or the Z06 specs?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area CA
Originally Posted by YO-EL
I have a 2000 with NON run flats..
I straight line drive my car only..
No road courses, no twisties, EVER!
Just STRAIGHT line.. (drag race, but I DO drive it 150 miles total to & from the track, when not going 1/4 mile at a time)
What is best for me, regular 2000 alignment specs?
or the Z06 specs?
I straight line drive my car only..
No road courses, no twisties, EVER!
Just STRAIGHT line.. (drag race, but I DO drive it 150 miles total to & from the track, when not going 1/4 mile at a time)
What is best for me, regular 2000 alignment specs?
or the Z06 specs?
Factory C5 Alignment Specs
Here is a 2000 C5 Alignment spec right out of my service manual that I just received.
I hope some people may be able to find this info helpful.
Preferred Settings............
Front Individual Toe +0.04 degree
Front Sum Toe +0.08 degree
Steering Wheel Angle 0.0 degree
Front Individual Caster +6.9 degree
Front Cross Caster within 0.50 degree
Front Individual Camber -0.20 degree
Front Cross Camber within 0.50 degree
Rear Individual Toe -0.01 degree
Rear Sum Toe -0.02 degree
Rear Thrust Angle 0.0 degree
Rear Individual Camber -0.18 degree
Rear Cross Camber within 0.50 degree