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The "chip" is known as a PCM. It is addressable/programmable, but not plug-in replaceable. To "talk" to it, you need a hand-held tuner (like the Predator or Vinci), or a pc program like LS1 Edit or HP Tuners.
You plug into the car's computer thru the ODBII port below the steering wheel. Real simple, nothing to remove. Not exactly cheap since tuning, really tuning, requires a laptop and $500 in tuning software.
New to the performance tuning gig so didn't mean to sound retarded. I bought the car with several aftermarket parts (unknowing to the dealer..ha ha) and was trying to assess the current horsepower. It was easy tracking down a rough figure for bolt-ons like the Borla exhaust but the computer situation was a little tougher. Even more retarded I had it dynoed a month or so ago but didn't realize that the attendant had left the A/C on during the test. Anyone have a guestimate as to how much that would set back the hsp. during the test? Appreciate the help.
New to the performance tuning gig so didn't mean to sound retarded. I bought the car with several aftermarket parts (unknowing to the dealer..ha ha) and was trying to assess the current horsepower. It was easy tracking down a rough figure for bolt-ons like the Borla exhaust but the computer situation was a little tougher. Even more retarded I had it dynoed a month or so ago but didn't realize that the attendant had left the A/C on during the test. Anyone have a guestimate as to how much that would set back the hsp. during the test? Appreciate the help.
Probably didn't affect the HP/TQ at all. Once the throttle gets past a certain point/RPM or rate of throttle increase, the A/C compressor clutch disengages. However, I believe the fans stay on the high mode, so it may in fact helped very slightly by keeping the coolant temps a few degrees cooler.
Check around on the forums, and you will find that at the strip the guys running the better times leave their A/C on so the fans will run longer.
You plug into the car's computer thru the ODBII port below the steering wheel. Real simple, nothing to remove. Not exactly cheap since tuning, really tuning, requires a laptop and $500 in tuning software.
I bought a Hypertech, big bucks for a limited change. These suck out the stock program and plug in their program and allow you a few selectable choices, then you might as well throw it away unless you're going to make a huge change in tire size.
I think you get more for your money with a reputable tuner with your car on a real Dyno. Or spend more for the tuning software and laptop, then you can keep up with tuning for each modification, again you're a prisoner to one model year.
I just got the laptop and I'm looking into the yet to be released program that doesn't lock you into a model year like LS1 edit. Beware, This is MHO from experience, reading and a friend that has LS1 edit and another system that reads A/F ratio.
Last edited by curtbriggs; Dec 15, 2004 at 09:12 PM.