I just modified the camber on the front and the rear of the car.
I took care of mooving them exactly the same on the four adjustment on the front.
I went to the maximum camber possible on the front.
I went to half way on the rear.

The car is undrivable!!!
I think I need to go for a wheel alignement.

Any idea?

 

If you just moved the camber and didn't adjust the toe last, then your tires are pointing all directions and the car will go with which ever tire has the most traction at the moment. Sort of like this:

 

What are calling the Toe?

 

The eccentric adjusters are not linear in their adjustment, so if you changed the camber as much as you say, even if you moved them precisely the same amount, then you have thrown the castor out of whack also, and definately have extreme toe-in as a result, assuming you adjusted for neg. camber. You adjust camber, castor and toe on the front wheels, camber first, castor second, check and correct the camber again, check and correct the castor again, and so on, until you get the two exactly where you want them. Then you set the toe-in/out and steering wheel angle.
The rear is setting the camber, set the toe-in/out, then the thrust angle. With the adjustments you describe, you now have extreme toe-out, assuming you adjusted for neg. camber.
These adjustments can't be done accurately without leveling devices on each wheel.
Until you get a 4-wheel alignment, your car won't drive good.

 

The alignment is a little tricky. I found out the hard way before a return leg of a road trip and the lesson cost me a set of tires. Easiest way I think to do a diy alignment is to get the fixed alignment kits from Hardbar and then all you have left to adjust is the toe.

 

As mentioned above, changing the concentric bolts changes a lot of things on the front suspension, and making it more difficult, the concentric bolts are not linear, so the same adjustment in terms of rotation will not necessarily make the same change to camber. You really need a camber gage to check the results.

On the front a-arms, the front lower a-arm concentric bolt changes camber a lot, toe a lot and caster a little. The rear lower concentric bolt changes camber a little, toe a little, and caster a lot.

When you move the front concentric bolt to move the bottom of the tire out (more negative camber), it moves the spindle away from the tie rod which will mean your tires will be pointed in towards each other - this is toe in. It will also move the bottom of the spindle aft a little bit, which decreases caster.

To really do this right, you need a perfectly level floor, a camber gage, and a set of toe plates, and you need to know how to verify caster, which is a mathmatical computation from camber taken with the wheel turned 20 degrees one way and then the other away. Kind of a PITA.

I'd suggest you decide what camber you want, then take it to a good alignment shop and give them your specs and let them do it.

 

That what I'm ready to do except I have no idea what can of camber I must go?

I want the camber to save my tires?
how far I should go?

Thank you to all of you for the answer

 

I have been following this thread. I too am wondering what camber setting to go with on my 2004 Z-06. I go to the track once or twice a month and drive it to work about 3 days a week. I just ordered new track wheels and tires. I got the CCW 12x18 for the rear and 10.5x18 for the front. I am running Hoosier 335/30 on the rear and 305/30 on the front.

For those experienced with this set-up, what camber settings do you run?

And what cold/hot tire pressures are best?


Thanks

 

For street, 1-2 degrees negative camber. I've heard you want max camber with Hoosiers, even more than the standard cams will do.

 

Here are the stock Z06 alignment specs:

Specs:
Front Individual Toe: +0.04 degree +/- 0.10 degree
Front Sum Toe: +0.08 degree +/- 0.20 degree
Front Individual Caster: +6.9 degree +/- 0.50 degree
Front Cross Caster: within +/- 0.25 degree
Front Individual Camber: -0.70 degree +/-0.50 degree
Front Cross Camber: within +/-0.25 degree
Rear Individual Toe: -0.01 degree +/- 0.10 degree
Rear Sum Toe: -0.02 degree +/- 0.20 degree
Rear Individual Camber: -0.68 degree +/- 0.50 degree
Rear Cross Camber: within +/- 0.50 degree

Camber:
-1.5 front will work well on the track, but expect accelerated front tire wear. Everything is a trade off.
There is no perfect alignment for the track and the street. You either compromise wear for handling or visa versa.
-1.1 rear is the most negative I could get stock, but this is decent for the track.

Here is a suggestion for a compromise track/street setup:
Camber: -1.25 front, -1.0 rear (almost within stock limits)
Caster: max positive, matched side to side
Toe: 0.1 front, -0.1 rear

To improve handling at the cost of tire wear, use more negative camber in the front, slight toe out in front, slight toe in rear.

As a note, Hoosiers will like a lot more negative camber in the front, but if you run that much on the street, particularly if you have any toe out, your front tires will wear out very quickly. As a data point, with -1.75 front camber and zero toe, I wore out my front F1 SC in 3k miles and one DE weekend.

As for tire pressures for Hoosiers, there is a pretty good discussion here:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...osier_tips.jsp

I'd suggest something like 32 front, 30 rear to start and check hot. My hots on the Hoosiers are something like 43-45 front, 41-43 rear.

 

Thanks Subdriver. I will start with your recommendations.

 

thank you

 

Do you have the Coupe/C5 specs??

Thanks

 

No sorry, I don't. Maybe someone else will chim in.