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Thinking about insulating the interior... pros, cons, which material?

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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 08:20 PM
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Default Thinking about insulating the interior... pros, cons, which material?

I don't want to add more than 30 lbs or so, but I'd like the interior of the car to be a bit more solid and tight. I'm thinking about insulating the rear hatch area and maybe the front area as well.

What material should I use? In the how-to's and the thread by Stuzvette they all use silver type reflective stuff, but what about some kind of dynomat? Any info would be great....


B
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 09:54 PM
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To save wieght I think looking into some of the dynomat products may help. When I was all about stereo I had my 92 Z24 "dead" with these. The car would hit 142db with 2 12s and you could hear a little hum with the car shut and window up...Although body panels did move
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 10:38 AM
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I recently bought the kit from CrazyC5Cowboy on this forum. I got the front & back, and the package it cam in must weight 10 lbs or less. I have not yet installed it yet, but I've read only good things from those who have it. Comes pre-cut sections. You can order just the fron or just the back, or the entire set. SCOTT
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 10:57 AM
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Here is what I did....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=853562
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 01:06 PM
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Cobra, I've been working on mine and have used both the Reflectix and Frost King materials. Use the Reflectix. I found it much easier to work with. The Frost King will leave you with small cuts on the tips of your fingers and its metal lining doesnt have any adhesive to hold it in place. The only place you may want to use the Frost King is behind the door panels because it compresses thinner.

A tip I have for the rear hatch area is this: DO NOT apply it to the horizontaly flat surfaces where the 3 compartment lids make contact. I initialy did this and couldnt get the lids back on. I dis-assembled then traced an outline of the lids then trimmed.

Dynamat: I picked this tip up of the Miata forum when I was a Miata owner. At Lowes you can pick up a material used for roofing. Its like a Dynamat knock-off. A 25' by 6" roll costs $10-$15. Much much cheaper than Dynamat and you probably cant tell the difference. It has an aluminum surface on one side and an adhesive backing on the other. I lined the door skins and lined the inner and outer surface of the door where the speaker mounts. it made a big difference.
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 02:12 PM
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Where can I get the Reflectix?
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 02:20 PM
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I used the frost king and I can not see how someone says that there isnt any adheasive on it. It sticks very well, is light, easy to work with and very effective on heat and road noise. I did the entire car in one afternoon! Oh yea, Frost king has NO after instalation smell and is easily removed if you need to remove it for what ever reason in the future.
BC
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 02:24 PM
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Bill, I agree, Frost King has a light adhesive on the surface that meets the panel. I found the aluminum was separating from the foam. Reflectix has no insulation smell and can be found in the insulation department at Lowes.
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 02:28 PM
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Is the Reflectix that foil covered bubble wrap??
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I used the frost king and I can not see how someone says that there isnt any adheasive on it. It sticks very well, is light, easy to work with and very effective on heat and road noise. I did the entire car in one afternoon! Oh yea, Frost king has NO after instalation smell and is easily removed if you need to remove it for what ever reason in the future.
BC
How effective?

The most recent products from Dynamat and Stinger do not smell like their older counterparts did.
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 05:59 PM
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Bill, Reflectix is the foil covered bubble wrap.

Refectix and Frost King DO NOT smell.
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Is the Reflectix that foil covered bubble wrap??
Yep that's the stuff! I did my car last year with it and it made a world of difference.
With Kook's headers and highflow 3" cats and a full 3'' system back to B&B route 66 mufflers it's a lot quieter then stock.
And it keeps the interior much cooler, (that was the real reason I did it anyway.)
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 06:50 PM
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This is really interesting stuff
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by EatRice
The most recent products from Dynamat and Stinger do not smell like their older counterparts did.
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 11:41 PM
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From: Biloxi MS Theres something happenin' here, What it is ain't exactly clear.....
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ok
Lets all do this -

But who has the step by step for interior removal?

Thanks
Rain
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 06:14 PM
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I just did the Frost King Install to the rear hatch area of my coupe...Still need to remove the seats and console to do the cockpit area...to be quite honest...I don`t notice any difference...Maybe after stuffing the wheel wells and doing the cockpit it`ll be quieter.
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 12stepvette
I just did the Frost King Install to the rear hatch area of my coupe...Still need to remove the seats and console to do the cockpit area...to be quite honest...I don`t notice any difference...Maybe after stuffing the wheel wells and doing the cockpit it`ll be quieter.
same here,no quieter
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To Thinking about insulating the interior... pros, cons, which material?

Old Dec 28, 2004 | 06:59 PM
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so what are we learning here?

With the Coupes,
just doing the rear hatch area doesn't cut it?
Pulling the seats and carpet from the cabin is a must and to ensure success,
stuffing the wheel wells with attic insulation?

Rain
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 08:52 PM
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With the Coupes,
just doing the rear hatch area doesn't cut it?
Pulling the seats and carpet from the cabin is a must and to ensure success


here is my installation page with links to others ideas as well:

http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 09:40 PM
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So far I've only done the hatch area and I DO notice a difference. Once I do the vertical area behing the seats I'm sure it'll be much more noticeable.
Something to keep in mind is that when you do the rear hatch area your only going cover part of the wheel wheel. To cover the entire wheel wheel you need to remove the big piece of plastic surronding the speaker.

Last edited by jim2527; Dec 28, 2004 at 09:42 PM.
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