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I have been fighting a pilot bearing in the crank that would not budge. I broke the tips off a screw type puller. I bought a slide hammer puller and it didn't do squat. I tried using a reciprocating saw, but the stroke was too long and it broke blades in seconds. I tried a succession of drills, but got nowhere fast. I didn't want to heat it and damage the seal. I finally tried a Dremel with a straight tungsten carbide cutter. It ate through the side of the bearing in about 15 minutes. It popped right out with the slide puller after that. I recommend it for anyone who runs into this problem.
Thatch 98 C5 w/ Carroll Vortech (replacing driveshaft and clutch)
After struggling with a couple of different pullers on my buddy's, we found this one at Pep Boys (free to borrow with deposit) and had it out in just a few minutes. We clamped a set of vise grips to it and hammered on that for better leverage. Popped right out.
Using the principles of hydraulics, you can use a bolt, paper towels, a hammer and some grease.
Put some grease in, pack it with some of the paper towel, insert bolt and hammer it out.
This works for me and many others I know.
Using the principles of hydraulics, you can use a bolt, paper towels, a hammer and some grease.
Put some grease in, pack it with some of the paper towel, insert bolt and hammer it out.
This works for me and many others I know.
Very, very, very bad idea on an LS1 based engine. You will eventually pop out the seal in the crank doing this (if the seal is held in with less pressure than the pilot bearing). This would then necessitate the removal of the engine/oil pan and god knows what else.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT try this unless you like taking risks.
I used the Autozone bearing puller and modified it to work better. 2' of threaded rod with some big fender washers at the end, and vice grips for better grip, and boom, it came out in 30 seconds.
The jaws are too big to fit behind the bearing correctly so you end up grabbing it by the rear-most lip like the above picture.
I know that the LS6 crank has the seal, but does the LS1 crank have it? I know the 6.0L cranks dont have the seal!
Yes, it's there and the Service Manual states that severe engine damage can result from doing it that way. I've done it on my SBC and BLACKTOP2000 did it that way on his LS1. His came right out, but afterwards we found out what we could've done and thanked our lucky stars.
Make sure that you didnt puncture the oil seal in the end of the crank when you were using the saws all!!! If you did you will have oil EVERYWHERE!!!!
BC
Can you elaborate more on this oil seal “in the end of the crank”… think I might have pushed mine out/in while trying to do the bread trick method to get the pilot bearing out… -__-
This thread is ANCIENT but yes you did do that. I know because I also did it using the bread method. HUGE MISTAKE. For others NEVER DO THIS!
You have to drop the front subframe to drop the pan to get the mess out now I'm sorry to say. Dorman sells the plug you pushed in. Its a freeze plug looking disc.
thanks for the info! Lucky for me I’ve already got everything out. Having to do the oil pan gaskets, so I decided to do other things while everything was out. Including a new clutch kit…