Lowering question
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,762
Likes: 2
From: Murphy TX
Lowering question
Guys I'm sorry - I know this has been talked about 1000 times but I searched and couldn't find anything...
Can I lower the car with all bushings intact? Will they compress enough to lower the vehicle or must they be removed / cut?
All the tech tips entries discuss removing the bolt/bushing, cutting then replacing. Can I lower 1/2" to 1" with everything in place?
Thanks, and sorry for the repeat.
Can I lower the car with all bushings intact? Will they compress enough to lower the vehicle or must they be removed / cut?
All the tech tips entries discuss removing the bolt/bushing, cutting then replacing. Can I lower 1/2" to 1" with everything in place?
Thanks, and sorry for the repeat.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 19,557
Likes: 1,470
From: I love you & miss you Linda
2017 C7 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Contributor
You can lower 1/2" to 1" without doing anything to the bushings. Just turn the rear bolts until you have 2 threads left showing and turn the fronts until there is no gap left between the bushing and the bolt..
Lowering the Rear
Make certain the car is located on a level surface.
Chock the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling.
Raise the rear of the car, insuring that the jack is positioned in the center of the rear cross member.
Place two jack stands under the rear cross member, and lower the car onto them. Make sure you have raised the car high enough to allow plenty of workspace.
There is a bolt on each end of the leaf spring (18mm bottom, 13/16" nut on top), with a rubber bushing top and bottom. It is possible, in most cases, to lower about 1 inch without removing the bolt at all and without cutting the bushing.
Leave TWO threads showing on top when you re-tighten.
When the car is lowered onto the ground, the weight will load the spring.
Lower the car, the rear is done.
Lowering the Front
Make sure the car is in gear to prevent it from rolling.
Raise the front of the car, with the jack positioned in the center of the front cross member.
Place the two jack stands under the cross member, lower the car onto them.
Remove the front wheels.
On the front leaf spring, with a 10mm wrench or socket, turn the bolt as if you were loosening it (It is reverse threaded so you are actually tightening it).
Turn the bolt until there is no longer a gap between the bushing and the bolt. Measure the exposed threads to insure the other side is done the same.
FE3 & FE4 cars may not drop quite as much as an FE1 (base) car will but the will still come down.
You can completely remove the front lowering bolt if you would like to go even lower. A spreading tool or removal of the a-arm is required to allow removal of the adjusting bolt and bushings.
Put the wheels back on and lower the car.
NOTE: It may be necessary to place a board under the tires so you will be able to remove the floor jack once the car is lowered.
Lowering the Rear
Make certain the car is located on a level surface.
Chock the front wheels to prevent the car from rolling.
Raise the rear of the car, insuring that the jack is positioned in the center of the rear cross member.
Place two jack stands under the rear cross member, and lower the car onto them. Make sure you have raised the car high enough to allow plenty of workspace.
There is a bolt on each end of the leaf spring (18mm bottom, 13/16" nut on top), with a rubber bushing top and bottom. It is possible, in most cases, to lower about 1 inch without removing the bolt at all and without cutting the bushing.
Leave TWO threads showing on top when you re-tighten.
When the car is lowered onto the ground, the weight will load the spring.
Lower the car, the rear is done.
Lowering the Front
Make sure the car is in gear to prevent it from rolling.
Raise the front of the car, with the jack positioned in the center of the front cross member.
Place the two jack stands under the cross member, lower the car onto them.
Remove the front wheels.
On the front leaf spring, with a 10mm wrench or socket, turn the bolt as if you were loosening it (It is reverse threaded so you are actually tightening it).
Turn the bolt until there is no longer a gap between the bushing and the bolt. Measure the exposed threads to insure the other side is done the same.
FE3 & FE4 cars may not drop quite as much as an FE1 (base) car will but the will still come down.
You can completely remove the front lowering bolt if you would like to go even lower. A spreading tool or removal of the a-arm is required to allow removal of the adjusting bolt and bushings.
Put the wheels back on and lower the car.
NOTE: It may be necessary to place a board under the tires so you will be able to remove the floor jack once the car is lowered.
Last edited by Glennm27; Jan 9, 2005 at 10:06 AM.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: Euless TX
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=90&TopicID=1
i ve been wondering the same thing and just found this tonight for the first time, ive been looking off and on, lucky for me i found this tonight, i tried to lower the car myself today, had no luck, got scared and put the car back on the ground.
i ve been wondering the same thing and just found this tonight for the first time, ive been looking off and on, lucky for me i found this tonight, i tried to lower the car myself today, had no luck, got scared and put the car back on the ground.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: Euless TX
