When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i am going to replace the muffler on my 2000 vert with a B and B prt. system, what do i need to know are there any shortcuts i should be aware of? or is ther a site that tells me how or has pics? thanks
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
If you want to keep your stock pipes intact, you will need to get the car about 3' in the air. Other than that, it is a pretty straight forward swap. I didn't have the equipment to get the car that high, so I just had a local muffler shop do it. Cost was $50.
Jack the rear of your car onto Rhino Ramps or a stack of 2x12's. (Gives you an extra 8" or so of clearance under the car so you can roll around easily.) Cut your stock exhaust in front of the mufflers. I used a Lisle 31500 Exhaust Cutter, to avoid sparks right under the fuel tanks. From there it's just remove and reinstall. Piece of cake!
Spend the muffler shop money on your next Corvette mod. The job is too easy to pay someone else to do it. If I can do it, anyone can!!
I just did my Corsa's on Rhino Ramps.....just needed to cut pipe 4 inches from muffler and drop rear sway bar......no problem...spent longest part of project getting tip alignment and elevation perfect and symetrical.
Take from someone who has done it twice and that will be it: If you don't want to cut the pipes, getting the back of your vette high enough is scary. I was lucky the first time and not the second. I was using wood blocks to stack on the jacks and the car rolled a little, (creeped back) blocks collapsed, and I had jackstand in place so the car hit the jackstand and it was slightly damaged where the jackstand meets the jacking spot on the side. Not noticeable unless you look under there. Chassis area is slightly bent (sheet metal) and some plastic (body) damage. Could have been a lot worse. Just pay someone with a lift!
Some aftermarket exhaust suppliers provide instructions that include loosening or removing the rear supports of the system. DON'T DO IT! The old system will slide right out of the supports and the new system will slide right in and you don't have to risk losing one of the bolts up into the dark abyss of the rear facia. That and, as others have said, use caution in the jacking process.
Some aftermarket exhaust suppliers provide instructions that include loosening or removing the rear supports of the system. DON'T DO IT! The old system will slide right out of the supports and the new system will slide right in and you don't have to risk losing one of the bolts up into the dark abyss of the rear facia. That and, as others have said, use caution in the jacking process.
Thanks for the tip ... I'm waiting on my GHLs via Big Brown Truck and don't need to make this install anymore difficult than it needs to be. I have a lift and have been wrenching of cars for years so I'm optimistic.
Unless you have a lift, pay for the swap with a knowledgable mechanic. The rear of the car has to be high off the ground and makes for a hazardous situation using jacks/ramps/boards or whatever. The first guys (at a Chevy dealership) could not get the right side out on my A4 coupe. They started to drop the rear end out and got a couple nuts out before I stopped them. I took it to a great Vette Mech (at another Chevy dealership) and he did the swap in about 45 minutes.
On the A4 the right side is somewhat difficult to snake out from everything.
Well, having helped (mostly moral support) remove a ZO6 exhaust last week I would definitely say to find someplace that has a lift. Very precarious getting the car up high enough to remove the exhaust without cutting. Didn't want to cut the ZO6 Ti exhaust since there is a fair amount of resale value in them.
If you have the Car on 4 Rhino ramps the car is already up a good bit so raising it the extra distance, in my mind, doesn't seem like it would be that bad.
Anyone who spends about $1,000 on new catbacks and can't see the value in having the stock taken off and the new catbacks installed for $50, especially when a lift is required, is a mystery to me. I do 100% of my own wrenching on my bikes, boats, trucks, tractors and cars, but not when they must be at least 3 feet off the ground; and I do it solely because its fun. Dirty, nasty stuff that's not fun goes to the dealer - like grease jobs and oil changes.
However, I plan on building a new 30'x60' garage this summer and it will have a hydralic lift.
The -only- reason to pay someone with a lift to do this job is if you want to save your stock exhaust. Maybe you leased the car, and need to restore it to original condition in a few years.
However, if you're getting rid of the stock exhaust because you don't like the sound, that baby is just going to collect dust in your basement or garage or shed. When you decide you're tired of the car, are you really going to jack it up and put the stock system on? I wouldn't...
Skip the lift, cut the stock exhaust off and throw it away.
I love my GHL Bullets. And the stock exhaust that I cut off of my Corvette was probably recycled by Waste Management.