Ive got a modded 99 FRC M6 with street tires. It has LG Longtubes, no cats, borla exhaust, donaldson blackwing, G5X3 on a 114 with comp 921 springs. Its also been dyno tuned. Put down 380 rwhp without the catback or blackwing. My car seems to have very little power under 3000rpm. I was wondering if anyone has any tips on launching a modded vette with street tires.

 

How bout for a stock vette too?

 

Very little power under 3000 rpm? I think you need to work on launching technique. I need to work on mine too and I have a 99 A4 with 3.15 gears and a few minor mods. And I only have maybe 310 rwhp

 

I've ran it with stock Runcraps, Kumho MX's and BFG Drag radials. Don't bother with the stock tires...Anything over 350RWHP you're asking to go side ways. MX's were better but nothing like DR. I'm not at the track to set my best times so I don't launch hard (hense drag radials). I rev it to 3500-4500 and drop the clutch (drag radials), but with Kumho's I had to slip it. It's a fine line between frying the clutch (did it few times) and bogging. All this was done this 392RWHP/374RWTQ. I ran 12.3xxx to 12.4xxx trapping 116-118mph in 90* heat. 60 ft were 2.2xx with Runcraps, 2.0xx-2.1xx with Kumho's and 1.9xx to 1.8xx with Drag Radials. NOTE: These results were my own and could vari.....

 

Ragtop- i've had similar results. With drag radials, my 60 fts are in the 1.9 - 2.0 range. I need to get them down a little more. I launch about 3300-3500, but I don't drop the clutch. I still feather it a little, but not as much as i had to with street tires. You got to find that sweet spot between bogging down & spinning the tires. I don't want to break anything, so I probably won't resort to dropping the clutch at that kind of rpm. Usually it results in my spinning the tires, anyway. I'm about to put a cam in, so I can't speak as to how the car will react with a cam such as yours. Maybe after a few runs I will get a feel for it. I would think if you lost some low end with the cam, you have to raise your launch rpm. Scott

 

pure stock?

depends on tires.

try coming out ~ 1300 w/RF's; w/decent Non-RF's ~1800.... then shifting @ 5800 (with M6)

 

If you do decide to get drag radials Go with 17 inch rims. I have both 17 and 18 inch drag radials and the 17's are more consistent and gave quicker 60 ft times..

 

I run 17X11.5 CCW wheels with 315/35-17 BFG Drag Radials. Just last week I swapped my old set up to forged LS6/AFR 205/ASP/Fidanza/LUK. I'm going for 450-475RWHP. Drag radials might not cut it anymore but don't want to run ET Streets either. I'll have the motor broken in and dyno tuned so I'm looking forward to the racing season.

BTW with M6/4.10's/315's I go through the traps @ 6600RPM.

 

[QUOTE=ragtopws6] I rev it to 3500-4500 and drop the clutch (drag radials), QUOTE]
i did this on nitto's DR and blew my tranny and rear-just wouldn't hook. i suggest slippin the clutch

 

well...what about us automatic people?? any suggestions there?

 

I have falcons on my c5. They came with the car when I bought it. Also, I have the stock 3.42 gears. Swapping to 4.10s should help put me in the rpm sooner where I make th most power. Ive slipped the clutch at around 2800 and the car took off fairly hard but I still wasnt in my powerband. I really feel the car pull above 4000 with the G5X3.

By the way, anyone else with the G5X3? What do you shift at? I think my rev limiter is set a little low at around 6300.

 

Stick launching on street tires requires some finesse, especially on the run-craps.

First off, drive around the waterbox if at all possible, then if you can back up to be right in front of the water. If you cant get around the water, pull just in front of it, and when you get the go ahead to burn out, chirp the tires in first, just spin them a little to get rid of the water, roll forward just a bit, then do the best burnout you dare. Heat them puppies up!

First consideration is how much you heat them up in the burnout box. If you have run-craps I suggest you burn them to death so you can at least replace them with a decent street tire. I dropped an easy 2 tenths in 60' time switching from run-craps to F1 SuperCars, also burned up my LS1 clutch, but thats another story.

So your launch rpm will vary with track/weather conditions and how sticky your tires are. I would start at 2400 and work my way up in 300 rpm increments till I found a sweet spot. Basically once you are both staged go to target RPMs and hold it there.

Now here's what helped me with the street tires, when it's time to launch slip the clutch just enough to bite and give it about 1/4 gas pedal. You will start forward a little and the rear will set/squat, hopefully you know what I am talking about, if not pay attention to your butt-o-meter when launching. As soon as you get that "set" feeling, come off the clutch fully and do a steady push to the floor on the gas, don't stomp it. By the time your foot hits the floor, it's going to be about time to shift into 2nd. Some spin is expected, but as long as you are being pushed forward at heavy Gs, it's all good. if you end up doing a sit-and-spin or going sideways, it's time to bring the launch rpm down, or adjust your touch on the pedals. If the car is bogging down, then up the launch rpms.

I seemed to spin/burn in 2nd about 3 out of 5 times back then, if you are spinning in second, then granny shift 2nd and speed shift 3rd and 4th. A little chirp is ok/good, major spin or going sideways is bad, but may win you points with the crowd, heh... (we got some bloodthirsty bastiges at MIR).

My average 60' time on run-craps was probably 2.1x, my best on GY-F1-Supercars (295s) was 1.89, average 1.95-ish.

Remember all this is going to wear on rubber and clutch, so save those pennies, and get friendly with someone who lives near the track.

My only other advice would be to remember when you are just trying to get the best E/T, don't worry about the other guy. His launch, or where he is doesnt matter. You only need to know if he is staged or not, to anticipate the light. I like to stage quick, give it a little gas when I see one stage light on his side, give it full lauch rpms when I see two. If all you are after is a good 60' and good e/t, don't worry about reaction time or the other guy. Your timer doesn't start until you move forward. Look straight down the track, only flicking eyes down to check RPMs (if you have to).

Good Luck! Let us know how you do... (in the drag racing forum)

 

nice post IFLUBYU
i would recomend not bothering to race the car on run flats if you have any HP improvements on the car. I did 2 runs on run flats and theres no way to see the true potential of the car. you can't push to hard,
save your parts til you get better tires.