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Has anyone had their rear window tinted over all the little black bumps, and have it look right from outside the car? My window tinter says it cannot be done properly to look good?
Haven't done the C6 yet, pick it up on friday, but did tint my 95 Z28 years back and it also has those bumps. For the first couple weeks it looked bad, but after that it somehow fixed itself, and now looking at it, it looks perfect.
From: My anger management class pisses me off outside of Nashville
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Mine is in a heated garage and it still took almost 3 weeks to cure,even with the tinter rubbing it with his sqeggy<sp> once a week The C6 rear window is one of the most difficult to do according to him and he has done all of my car's over the years
I've done over 1000 cars and with every car I've owned I've had to do the following. Take a razor blade an shave the black bumps. Be EXTREMELY careful not to nick the defroster lines!!! When you do this before laying the tint down, it'll drastically reduce the size of the white bumps from air pockets that appear from the outside of the window after the tint cures. I'd recommend doing this yourself if you want it done right and with the care to not nick the defroster lines and just as importantly clean up all of the little black fragments.
Two consequences of this. The defroster cannot be repaired without ripping off the tint costing you whatever it cost originally plus the removal fee for the elephant sperm it leaves behind. It's pretty heinous. Secondly, those little black dots get everywhere. Your tinter probably won't spend the time to completely remove them. Here's how: Take a spray bottle with water and add about a tablespoon of dishwashing detergent. This slicks whatever it touches. Spray this on the window and into the cracks of the rubber gasket and then take plenty of paper towels and wipe up all of the solution with the shaved black dots that have slid off the window. Additionally, let it dry and do it again to be sure. You will be happy you did if you are **** and one white air bubble spot would bother you because you didn't take the time to do it right. Don't be afraid to completely saturate the window to the point that it, yes I'm going to say it, drip all over your precious carpet. Don't worry it'll dry off with no skill of your own and eventually look good as new.
Cheers.
I've had 4 C5s and a C6 done. After the film has set a day I start pressing the film into the dots with a microfiber towel. It takes a good bit of pressure. After a week or so of that the film will tighten up round the dots pretty well. Here's my C6, not perfect but acceptable from more than a few feet away.
Another thing that helps is to use a hair dryer held on high at about an inch from the tint for about 30-45 seconds. This works well if you live in a cold climate. If you live in a warm climate, just park the car in the sun with the back window facing direct sunlight. Then press against the tint to get the glue to stick tightly around the dots. I use a credit card edge or the like and move it with not against the grain of the defroster lines.
ive had this problem only around the top of the window...but its been cold so i hope the heat coming in the summer will help bake it a little more....but it looks good and not that noticeable