Calling Shopdog---
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Safety Car
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From: Orlando Fl
Calling Shopdog---
I thought you might be the best to ask. I am going to make a sub box to hold 2 10" JL subs to go in the C6 coupe. The subs weigh about 25 lb's each and if I build the box out of half inch mdf, its going to weigh a ton. If I use something like 3/8 plywood, that will save a bunch on weight and if I make the enclosure smaller than the called for air volume, that too will reduce weight. My question is, if I seal the boxes really well, do you think I will notice a significant difference in sound quality?
I did do it correctly in my C5 coupe and the unit weighed 134 lbs! (But ohhh, did it rock!)
I did do it correctly in my C5 coupe and the unit weighed 134 lbs! (But ohhh, did it rock!)
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BCS Bet for St. Jude '09-'10-'11, '15
Originally Posted by webdzynes
I thought you might be the best to ask. I am going to make a sub box to hold 2 10" JL subs to go in the C6 coupe. The subs weigh about 25 lb's each and if I build the box out of half inch mdf, its going to weigh a ton. If I use something like 3/8 plywood, that will save a bunch on weight and if I make the enclosure smaller than the called for air volume, that too will reduce weight. My question is, if I seal the boxes really well, do you think I will notice a significant difference in sound quality?
I did do it correctly in my C5 coupe and the unit weighed 134 lbs! (But ohhh, did it rock!)
I did do it correctly in my C5 coupe and the unit weighed 134 lbs! (But ohhh, did it rock!)
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Orlando Fl
Originally Posted by zsr22
What version JL's are they? Also, I personally would not go any thinner than 5/8" when it comes to enclosures. MDF will perform much better than plywood as it is MUCH more dense. I never use plywood, even on simple non acoustic things like amp racks.
Intermediate
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From: Lake Tulloch Ca
Originally Posted by webdzynes
They are each 10w6V2-D4's. I know it would be better but my question is, how much better? The mdf I used before was 5/8 and as yes, it sounded very good but weighed a ton! What about straight fiberglass?
plexiglass
light weight and airtight as a it gets
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BCS Bet for St. Jude '09-'10-'11, '15
Fiberglass is very dense but costs quite a bit more to have done if you do not have the skills or resources to do so yourself. Are you wanting something that looks "custom" or something that blends in with the rear or something that just sounds good?
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Originally Posted by webdzynes
I thought you might be the best to ask. I am going to make a sub box to hold 2 10" JL subs to go in the C6 coupe. The subs weigh about 25 lb's each and if I build the box out of half inch mdf, its going to weigh a ton. If I use something like 3/8 plywood, that will save a bunch on weight and if I make the enclosure smaller than the called for air volume, that too will reduce weight. My question is, if I seal the boxes really well, do you think I will notice a significant difference in sound quality?
I did do it correctly in my C5 coupe and the unit weighed 134 lbs! (But ohhh, did it rock!)
I did do it correctly in my C5 coupe and the unit weighed 134 lbs! (But ohhh, did it rock!)
Note, the required size will differ if you port the enclosure, and different yet again if you pair it with a passive radiator. The latter two options put other constraints on the enclosure shape, but do allow you to use a smaller box.
As to enclosure materials, you don't want the enclosure to be a sound source in its own right. That'll yield unpredictable results due to secondary resonances. To prevent the enclosure from becoming a secondary radiator, you want to use materials which are dense and not "springy". MDF is a good, albeit heavy, choice. Strategically placed internal bracing, glued and screwed, can reduce the required thickness of the box's outer skin to prevent secondary resonances. In other words, make it a space frame, like a race car chassis and you can make it a great deal lighter.
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If you want to save weight, I'd go with fiberglass. Very strong, light weight. Only downside is the trouble it takes to construct it; I know you've looked into it already. Nonetheless, if you take it on, you'll be very happy once it's done.
With regards to the volume, you can cheat on the volume by using a filler such as polyfill. This may allow you to reduce the volume of the enclosure while maintaining the same effective volume.
http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.html
http://www.subbox.net/store/pages.php?pageid=1
http://www.carstereo.com/help/box_build.cfm
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/IS...nclosures.html
By the way, you can also buy an enclosure without the subs:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-sR0V5T4...0&I=044H1010DS
With regards to the volume, you can cheat on the volume by using a filler such as polyfill. This may allow you to reduce the volume of the enclosure while maintaining the same effective volume.
http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.html
http://www.subbox.net/store/pages.php?pageid=1
http://www.carstereo.com/help/box_build.cfm
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/IS...nclosures.html
By the way, you can also buy an enclosure without the subs:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-sR0V5T4...0&I=044H1010DS
Last edited by cmb13; Apr 6, 2006 at 06:46 AM.
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BCS Bet for St. Jude '09-'10-'11, '15
Originally Posted by cmb13
And not inexpensive
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Orlando Fl
Its a tough call. The subs I have are two JL 10w6V2-D4's which are big and heavy. They also sound terrific. To give them the air volume they need and still be able to store my top in the back makes the box design a challenge. I have 2 500/1 JL amps so can power each sub individually. The critical question is, if I go for less air volume will I lose substantial quality? Clearly I have enough power to make up for any DB loss I might incur....
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Orlando Fl
Originally Posted by cmb13
I believe it's not just a matter of volume, but of sound quality and possibly resonance, etc. Again, you can cheat on volume by using a filler such as polyfill. Check those sites I listed above.
Using polyfill to substitue for air volume is new to me. I was under the impression polyfill is always used to smooth out the punch and eliminate
the boominess (hollowness) of the base... Didnt realize there was another purpose!
Melting Slicks
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From: walkersville md
Originally Posted by webdzynes
I thought you might be the best to ask. I am going to make a sub box to hold 2 10" JL subs to go in the C6 coupe. The subs weigh about 25 lb's each and if I build the box out of half inch mdf, its going to weigh a ton. If I use something like 3/8 plywood, that will save a bunch on weight and if I make the enclosure smaller than the called for air volume, that too will reduce weight. My question is, if I seal the boxes really well, do you think I will notice a significant difference in sound quality?
I did do it correctly in my C5 coupe and the unit weighed 134 lbs! (But ohhh, did it rock!)
I did do it correctly in my C5 coupe and the unit weighed 134 lbs! (But ohhh, did it rock!)
I'd used 3/4" MDF for a box with 2 10's...... I made mine out of 3/4", the top, front and back are 3/4", the bottoms(underside and sides) or each box around the subs themselves r 1/2" MDF, and the subs and box weigh about 200 LBS. And plywood may sound a little dead comparing to MDF. MDf is real nice, and its light.
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BCS Bet for St. Jude '09-'10-'11, '15
Originally Posted by webdzynes
Thanks Craig. I certainly will check those.
Using polyfill to substitue for air volume is new to me. I was under the impression polyfill is always used to smooth out the punch and eliminate
the boominess (hollowness) of the base... Didnt realize there was another purpose!
Using polyfill to substitue for air volume is new to me. I was under the impression polyfill is always used to smooth out the punch and eliminate
the boominess (hollowness) of the base... Didnt realize there was another purpose!
