DIY Ramps/Rhino Ramp Mod (PICS)
07-16-2006, 12:25 PM
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DIY Ramps/Rhino Ramp Mod (PICS)
Grey 6K# Rhino Ramps are inexpensive, lightweight, well-constructed ramps that are adequately wide and supportive.
The problem with these ramps is that their angle of approach causes the flexible air dam of the C6 to impinge on them.
Options exist to eliminate this issue. One is to place a board or two at the beginning of the ramp to elevate the front of the C6. The problem with this method is the potential for board and /or ramp slippage. The other option is to purchase extra long, very low angle of approach ramps.
The following simple project allows the use of the DIY ramps as stand alone ramps to elevate the vehicle or as Rhino Ramp extensions if greater lift is required.
Steps:
1. Go to your local lumber yard and purchase 2x12 Douglas fir boards.
If they're damp, let them dry slowly.
2. Cut the boards to the following lengths:
(2) 51"
(2) 27"
3. Cut one of the ends of each board at a 45 degree angle to faciltate approach of the vehicle onto the board. 45 degrees is an easy cut with a circular or table saw and is adequate to keep the ramps from being pushed by the tires.
4. Drill a 7/16" or slightly smaller hole in the shorter board 1 3/8" from the straight end and centered.
5. Using steel screws, attach the shorter board to the longer board, offset by 3".
6. Cut the threads off of a carriage bolt, grind off the shoulders under the cap if you prefer, and drive the bolt, now an indexing pin, through the hole.
7. Cut a 2x4 to the width of the ramp, predrill and attach it to the ramp about one inch back from the end of the lower board. This is essential to eliminate any risk of the ramp tipping when used independently from the Rhino Ramps. Needless to say, the 2x4 stop is removed when the ramps are used in conjunction with Rhino Ramps. (Duh.)
8. When the ramps are utilized with Rhino Ramps, simply slip the indexing pin into the Rhino Ramp hole located at the beginning of the ramp to prevent the Rhino Ramp from slipping as the vehicle starts its ascent on them.
The problem with these ramps is that their angle of approach causes the flexible air dam of the C6 to impinge on them.
Options exist to eliminate this issue. One is to place a board or two at the beginning of the ramp to elevate the front of the C6. The problem with this method is the potential for board and /or ramp slippage. The other option is to purchase extra long, very low angle of approach ramps.
The following simple project allows the use of the DIY ramps as stand alone ramps to elevate the vehicle or as Rhino Ramp extensions if greater lift is required.
Steps:
1. Go to your local lumber yard and purchase 2x12 Douglas fir boards.
If they're damp, let them dry slowly.
2. Cut the boards to the following lengths:
(2) 51"
(2) 27"
3. Cut one of the ends of each board at a 45 degree angle to faciltate approach of the vehicle onto the board. 45 degrees is an easy cut with a circular or table saw and is adequate to keep the ramps from being pushed by the tires.
4. Drill a 7/16" or slightly smaller hole in the shorter board 1 3/8" from the straight end and centered.
5. Using steel screws, attach the shorter board to the longer board, offset by 3".
6. Cut the threads off of a carriage bolt, grind off the shoulders under the cap if you prefer, and drive the bolt, now an indexing pin, through the hole.
7. Cut a 2x4 to the width of the ramp, predrill and attach it to the ramp about one inch back from the end of the lower board. This is essential to eliminate any risk of the ramp tipping when used independently from the Rhino Ramps. Needless to say, the 2x4 stop is removed when the ramps are used in conjunction with Rhino Ramps. (Duh.)
8. When the ramps are utilized with Rhino Ramps, simply slip the indexing pin into the Rhino Ramp hole located at the beginning of the ramp to prevent the Rhino Ramp from slipping as the vehicle starts its ascent on them.
07-16-2006, 01:57 PM
#2
Great pics, and nice idea.
I have to tell you, though, I had trouble with the 2 2x12's in that with the 45' angle, I couldn't get up them withou kicking them out, at least for the rears. I think I mentioned this to you once before.
Maybe they'll work on the front. I think I may try it again, this time with a carraige bolt or two drilled into my garage floor. I'll use one with a sliding mechanism, so I can slide it up and out of the way when not in use. They probably won't move that way!
I have to tell you, though, I had trouble with the 2 2x12's in that with the 45' angle, I couldn't get up them withou kicking them out, at least for the rears. I think I mentioned this to you once before.
Maybe they'll work on the front. I think I may try it again, this time with a carraige bolt or two drilled into my garage floor. I'll use one with a sliding mechanism, so I can slide it up and out of the way when not in use. They probably won't move that way!
07-16-2006, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cmb13
Maybe they'll work on the front. I think I may try it again, this time with a carraige bolt or two drilled into my garage floor. I'll use one with a sliding mechanism, so I can slide it up and out of the way when not in use. They probably won't move that way!
You can just drill into the concrete very slightly oversize and slip the bolt in and out as needed.
Cutting off the threads would minimize scraping and ultimately enlarging the hole.
07-26-2006, 01:10 PM
#7
I took my 2x12's to a local shop, and used the belt sander to reduce the angle to about 30'. I haven't tried it, yet, but I suspect it'll be a little easier to get up. I think I'll to the eye-bolt to the floor anyway, in addtion.
