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It disables the solenoid on your MN6 tranny that forces your shifter into 4th when you are trying to shift into 2nd at lower RPM, without triggering error codes.
It is usefull when you are driving in slow traffic, and actually want to go into 2nd when the computer assisted gear selection is telling your tranny to put you into 4th.
Even though it didn't happen very often when I drove, having it happen never was worth the 20 bucks to me big time.
It's not an annoying issue if you know how to drive a manual properly.
Just tap the gas pedal, with clutch engaged, to get more revs going and the annoying "1-4" light goes away. Shift from 1 to 2 as normal.
For the life of me, I do not understand why the engineers thought this feature was needed. Why would anyone want to shift from 1st directly into 4th, with low revs? I do not get the concept. I am afraid to do this, could this hurt the tranny?
These kits are nothing but a 2 cent resistor you can buy anywhere and do yourself for far less then $20.
All it does is fool the ECM that the 1-4 CAG is still plugged in so it does not throw a error code but many buying such a kit over time with a C6 have had 1-4 shift problems.
This would not stop the light coming on so do it right and have it turned off by a custom ECM tune else drive it like a Corvette and do not shift at slow speeds
Originally Posted by nicosuave
I don't get this. Can someone please clear up my confusion.
I read on this thread that this "shift eliminator" thing makes it so the car doesn't force you into 4th gear when you want to be in 2nd.
My car has a light that flashes at retardedly low rpms telling me to shift to 4th from 1st, it looks like 1-->4 right everyone? The car however does not FORCE you into that gear and you can just ignore the light.
So what's all the fuss about? I would like to get rid of this annoying light that comes on all the time but other than that there is no problem. Is that what this mod does, eliminate the annoying light? or is there more to it?
Jim,
Is the CAGS eliminator a 2 piece connector that has to be zip-tied? (the harness, that is)
If so, why aren't these made so the harness is one piece so there is not a need to zip-tie it?
All the others I have seen have been this same way.
Jim,
Is the CAGS eliminator a 2 piece connector that has to be zip-tied? (the harness, that is)
If so, why aren't these made so the harness is one piece so there is not a need to zip-tie it?
All the others I have seen have been this same way.
Jim,
Is the CAGS eliminator a 2 piece connector that has to be zip-tied? (the harness, that is)
If so, why aren't these made so the harness is one piece so there is not a need to zip-tie it?
All the others I have seen have been this same way.
I did miss this....sorry.
It does need to be zip tied.....Once you pull the connection out of the tranny you terminate the connection the goes into the tranny with one end of the CAGS eliminator and the use the other end to plug the connection into the tranny. The loose end that is terminated is the zip tied up and out of the way so that it is not hanging loose under the car.
I have not seen the other CAGS that you are refferring to....
This is the way ours was designed. Works great and is not a problem at all tieing the loose end up and out of the way.
Jim,
Sorry my post was a little confusing.
I meant that all the other CAGS eliminators I have seen are similar to yours. They also have to be zip-tied.
I'm thinking about engine mods for mine including tuning. If not, I'll be calling you.
Thanks for the info on a nice mod.
1. Disconnect your Corvette's negative battery cable from the battery. The stock cable color is black, but you should check the markings on the battery to be certain.
2. To gain access to the CAGS solenoid, raise your Corvette as directed by the GM Shop/Owners Manual. Be sure to follow all safety precautions and use jack stands to support the vehicle.
3. The CAGS solenoid is located on the drivers' side of the transmission towards the top and rear of the transmission. The wiring harness connector is white and blue in color.
4. Gently lift the locking clip and unplug the connector from the solenoid. Make sure the connector and solenoid are clean. Plug the black end of the CAGS Eliminator into the wiring harness. You should hear a snap/click sound when the wiring harness is completely seated. Plug the white end of the CAGS Eliminator into the CAGS solenoid. You should hear a snap/click sound when the connector is completely seated.
5. Lower Corvette according to GM Shop Manual procedures.
6. Re-connect negative battery cable and test-drive car.
I have them in stock and ready to ship if you want one.
Jim
Don't forget to reset the window indexing. The instructions are in the owners manual.
Jim,
Sorry my post was a little confusing.
I meant that all the other CAGS eliminators I have seen are similar to yours. They also have to be zip-tied.
I'm thinking about engine mods for mine including tuning. If not, I'll be calling you.
Thanks for the info on a nice mod.
Not a problem....Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you out.
Let me ask this -- is disconnecting the battery necessary? I know its BEST for safety reasons, but resetting all the channels, seat settings, etc is a really big pain. For a quick and simple change that this is...I'm thinking it would be okay to slide here??
Let me ask this -- is disconnecting the battery necessary? I know its BEST for safety reasons, but resetting all the channels, seat settings, etc is a really big pain. For a quick and simple change that this is...I'm thinking it would be okay to slide here??
Not needed at all!!!!!!!
You know how it is, everytime you work on anything the relates to the electrical system that is a standard caveat. It is all about liability in case you get shocked. This is nothing more than unplugging and then plugging back in.
There is really no reason to disco the battery......I have installed several and never touched the battery.
I spent about an hour today getting my car up and finding what I believe is the connector to the CAG solenoid (it was the only connector I could find in the area described). There are 3 connections, one in, one out and the connector seperates in the middle. When I took it apart, it did not appear the the connections were same. The "eliminator" has two pins, the connection had 4.
Do you have a picture of the solenoid so can make sure I am working on the right thing? I stopped and put it back together. If not, I will have to return mine.