What needs to be done to prep for my ragtop's long winters nap?

 

Move to So CAl or So Fla for the winter.

Check on Edmunds.com or search this forum for winter storage should find a few articles.

 

Don't want to be a wise guy, but why a winter nap? I drive all winter long in the north east. Car runs just fine. It's no good in snow, but in most places, the roads are plowed a day or less after a snow storm and the streets are clear. If you live way out in the woods in heavy snow country, I can understand. Otherwise, why be without your precious ride for the next 5 or so months? The car costs you money every single day you own in in terms of depreciation, etc, etc... and life is short... enjoy the car as much as you can! There's nothing I enjoy more than taking the C6 out on a clear January day and going for a several hundred mile ride through the country... roads are usually empty in the winter which is a nice contrast to all the traffic in the summer... really helps ward away the wintertime blues.

 

1.Store it inside a heated garage.
2. If you have old oil in it-change it.
3. Stabilize the fuel system.
4. Put the car on jack stands. (Under the frame.)
5. Nitrogen in the tires.
6. Change trans fluid.
7. Change diff fluid.
8. Change brake/clutch fluids.
9. Put battery on a "smart charger."
10. Wash and Rejex/Zaino just before you put it away.
11. Condition the top.
12.Condition the interior surfaces.
13. Cover the car with something that will not trap moisture.

Remove spark plugs and put in a teaspoon of clean motor oil into each cylinder. Replace plugs. During storage,every week,rotate crank to different positions so the valve springs won't sack.

Aw,hell just follow the geese and go south for the winter!

 

A "...long Winter's nap..." My condolences. In Tucson, Arizona I prep my car for the long winter by servicing the fluids, checking the tires, taking the top off and driving it....all Winter long. Have you thought about 'Wintering' in Arizona, Florida or Southern California??

Just kidding. Do drive it as often as possible, even during the Winter months.

 

Must-dos:

Change the oil if it hasn't been recently changed.

Put on a fresh coat of wax or sealant.

Stabilize a full tank of gas.

Plug it into a Battery Tender.

Cover it with a breathable car cover.


Optional:

Put the car up on jack stands to unload the suspension.

Drive the tires onto pads if not jacked up.

Place a small fan in the interior with the windows cracked to circulate air inside the car.

Place dessicant cannisters in the interior.

 

If there is no ice or snow on the roads.....Drive it! Unless you use it for Concours events or plan on keeping it 25 years, enjoy it! You will never get your investment out otherwise!

 

Its is a nice thought but I wouldn't - not on the standard tires. Maybe if you put all season tires. Last couple of nights its been in low 40's to upper 30's and the tires really want to slide until well warmed up. When it really gets cold, I think the standard tires are too dangerous to drive on.

 

Oil change

Full tank of premium and add Stabil

Put a Battery Tender pigtail on the battery and plug in a Battery Tender. Makes it easy to unplug and take for a drive, don't even have to open the hood

Drive it on nice days, or at least start it up and let it run a bit in the drive.

If the weather is too bad for a long time to take it out, I just roll it a few feet once a week to put the tires on a different spot. Prevents flat spots. I leave the trans in nuetral and just push it by hand and move the wheel chocks. Don't even have to take off the cover to move it a foot or two.

I wouldn't mess with the spark plugs or jackstands, both not needed for just a winter nap. Leaving it ready to run and taking it out once in a while is a lot better for all seals and stuff than a total hybernation. Putting oil in the cylinder is just not needed and just adds wear and tear to the plug wires. Put on the Battery Tender pigtail, shut hood. Open hood next spring. Messing with the plugs and plug wires is asking for the u-touched it theory to bite you. Those plugs don't need to be touched for 100,000 miles.

 

I do a lot of what you say. As your tires lose a lb. for each ten degrees I inflate my tires to 40lbs for the winter. My garage is unheated & do to my long hilly driveway I will not/ can not take my car out in the winter after first snow hits Have stored since 98 with this method and all has been well.

 

Its 95 degrees outside and your thinking winter already?

 

Indeed the Z51 tires are more slippery when cold. But I don't know if I'd call them "dangerous". Depends on the driver.

I first received my new C6 last November and drove it all winter long... in NY. My very first experiences with the car were in 50 and below degree weather. Lots of 30 - 40 degree weather driving. I basically learned to drive the C6 in the cold.

I took a nice trip up through CT last winter, hit some nice mountain roads etc, it was sleeting, a little snow, etc... I had no problems whatsoever... never skidded even once... but I was driving properly of course.

Needless to say, if one expects a C6 to corner like it's on rails in 30 degree weather with sleet and snow, then indeed the situation will be dangerous. I do enjoy the extra traction in the summer though .

The only headache I find in the cold weather is the inability to hook up well. If you take off in 1st gear kinda quick there's a good chance the TC will kick in... in warmer weather this happens a lot less.

 

Drive it and then drive it some more.

 

Driving is not only the issue. Salt, sand and rocks that are air born will damage/scratch/dent etc your car. If you plan on keeping the car, I suggest moving to south or garage it..

 

What I do: I start it every 2 weeks and let it idle for about 20 minutes.

 

Maybe every week and I'm going to back it in and out of tht garage a few times too. It's important to really let it warm all the way up, get the oil over 212º.

 

Yes indeed, salt, sand etc are no fun. I installed a water line and hose in my non-heated garage so I can hose down the car after each salty run during the winter. I designed the hose line in such a way (on a pitch) so that I can close the master valve inside the house and easily drain the entire line after each use so it doesn't freeze up.

Though you'd think that salt, sand etc would damage a car, it doesn't do as much damage as you'd think. I had a `96 Monte Carlo that I bought new. My wife and I put over 100k miles on it in NY... car was driven almost EVERY DAY throughout TEN New York winters. Car was in showroom condition when I got rid of it. Paint was perfect... really. No evidence of salt, sand, rocks, etc. No rot or corrosion. I did generally take care of the car though and it was garaged 75% of the time... but it did indeed see ten winters worth of salt, sand, etc.... at least 30 miles a day of it, every day of every winter.

Point is, harsh winters, at least New York level winters, will not really hurt a car... at least over a ten year period. Didn't hurt mine.

Two winters ago I almost got tangled up with a salt truck in my wife's Mustang GT vert... got caught behind him while he was spreading salt, I was trying to pass, got close, etc... car got blasted with salt big time... like a hail storm... I finally got by. Salt everywhere. I just waxed the car the other day and scrutenized the entire paint finish, I do not see ANY evidence whatsoever that the car had been blasted with salt. Paint looks like brand new, no pits, no scratches, etc... looks perfect. No corrosion anywhere either.

I honestly think that the summer sun and summer heat may be more damaging to a car overall than winter.

Life is short... enjoy your horsepower while you can! Keep you car on the road and drive it!

 

I can't say that after 47 years in Mass that I can come close to agreeing with you. I spent 3 years in Tucson and I was amazed at the lack of rust on the twentyfive year old cars, you could actually unbolt the bumpers without destroying the nuts and bolts. In snow country where they use salt you usually won't start to see the rust for 4 or 5 years unless you get underneath or inside the doors but its there. My 02 GMC Sierra starting to show a bit at the bottom of the doors a year ago, it won't be long now. If you’re thinking of trading every 3 years or so, I would drive it in the winter.

Also if you keep the car in an unheated garage I would not wash after every outing and I would wait until a really warm day to do it. The water activates the salt and other chemicals they put in roadsalt and will encourage corrosion quicker. Dried on frozen salt won’t do anything.

 

Says the man from San Diego!

 

Buy a Car Capsule for your C6. I bought one two years ago for my Saleen Mustang(before I got my C6). You just drive your car on the mat, zip up the sides and plug the fan in to inflate it. The capsule flows continuos fresh air preventing milldew. They also keep the rodents from getting at your car, that is why I got mine. My Corvette will be going in there for the first time in only 1 1/2 months