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HI, I am about to do the first oil change on my Z06 and Im looking for a good torque wrench? I havent had one in years but I am considering a precision dial-type not sure on 3/8" or 1/2" drive though. Any suggestions??
HI, I am about to do the first oil change on my Z06 and Im looking for a good torque wrench? I havent had one in years but I am considering a precision dial-type not sure on 3/8" or 1/2" drive though. Any suggestions??
Get both. Most of what you do will be better served by a smaller, less cumbersome 3/8" drive wrench, but you'll want a 1/2" drive for lug nuts, etc.
And, if you buy them at Home Depot (Husky brand, which is good quality) they'll be inexpensive and guaranteed.
Get both. Most of what you do will be better served by a smaller, less cumbersome 3/8" drive wrench, but you'll want a 1/2" drive for lug nuts, etc.
You'll find you won't be able to cover the full torque range you need with one wrench anyway. The micrometer adjustment handle wrenches don't go all the way down to zero torque...they only span a certain torque range. I often find I could use a third wrench to cover the gray area in the middle.
Got a 1/2" drive Craftsman with micrometer-type scales from Sears for about $60. Excellent. You can easily add drop-down extension adapter to convert to 3/8" drive or vive versa if you go with 3/8" drive.
HI, I am about to do the first oil change on my Z06 and Im looking for a good torque wrench? I havent had one in years but I am considering a precision dial-type not sure on 3/8" or 1/2" drive though. Any suggestions??
For an oil change, one grunt tight on the drain plug and 3/4 turn past gasket contact on the filter. I've done thousands of oil changes and never used a torque wrench, just give it a nice firm pull.
You really should have a 1/2" good quality torque wrench for the wheels. Those lugs are real important to keep at 100 lb ft. So my vote would be to get a good 1/2" to start with because you know you will need that for the wheels.
The drain plug, just a nice firm pull with a regular length 3/8 ratchet.
Got a 1/2" drive Craftsman with micrometer-type scales from Sears for about $60. Excellent. You can easily add drop-down extension adapter to convert to 3/8" drive or vive versa if you go with 3/8" drive.
I wouldn't want to be maneuvering a 2 foot long 1/2" drive bludgeon for a small torque task any more than I'd want to be leaning on a 3/8" drive wrench for a high torque applcation.
Anyway, it's a moot point since, as stated by JmpnJckFlsh, you will not be able to cover the torque range with only one wrench.
HI, I am about to do the first oil change on my Z06 and Im looking for a good torque wrench? I havent had one in years but I am considering a precision dial-type not sure on 3/8" or 1/2" drive though. Any suggestions??
Not sure why you would want to use a torque wrench for an oil change. The drain plug only need to be "snug", e.g. one good tug on the wrench handle....use teflon tape on the threads. The filter should only be hand tight....1/2 turn after the rubber ring gasket meets the face of the filter fitting. If you're asking about a torque wrench for other work, then I would recommend 1/2 inch.....much more useful for wheels, exhaust, suspension fastners, etc.
Not sure why you would want to use a torque wrench for an oil change. The drain plug only need to be "snug", e.g. one good tug on the wrench handle....use teflon tape on the threads. The filter should only be hand tight....1/2 turn after the rubber ring gasket meets the face of the filter fitting. If you're asking about a torque wrench for other work, then I would recommend 1/2 inch.....much more useful for wheels, exhaust, suspension fastners, etc.
I would NEVER, EVER use teflon tape near any lubricating oil system. If you are found doing it in any major industrial plant, you will probably be reprimanded...at least I know that's true at Exxon and Mobil plants.
Reason: If any small thread of teflon tape gets into the oil passages, it can obstruct a bearing orifice leading to under-lubrication and bearing failure. It's happened before, and that's why major corporations have rules against doing it. You can argue that the strainer, and the oil filter, etc. will prevent it from ever getting that far, but the bottom line is: teflon tape is JUST NOT NECESSARY on an oil pan drain plug.
I would recommend buying a snap-on dial type or simalar brand of dial type. They seem to hold there accuracy longer then the snap actions or impulse feel torque wrenches.
The drain plug only need to be "snug", e.g. one good tug on the wrench handle....use teflon tape on the threads.
I don't use a drain plug on my C6, but for reasons previously stated, and due to the fact that the plug comes complete with an O ring gasket, teflon tape is not recommended.
I don't use a drain plug on my C6, but for reasons previously stated, and due to the fact that the plug comes complete with an O ring gasket, teflon tape is not recommended.
My general rule is to not use teflon tape on anything that has an o-ring type seal. Teflon tape was meant for non-gasket connections like screw-on water PVC plastic-to-plastic couplings.
For an oil change, one grunt tight on the drain plug and 3/4 turn past gasket contact on the filter. I've done thousands of oil changes and never used a torque wrench, just give it a nice firm pull.
You really should have a 1/2" good quality torque wrench for the wheels. Those lugs are real important to keep at 100 lb ft. So my vote would be to get a good 1/2" to start with because you know you will need that for the wheels.
The drain plug, just a nice firm pull with a regular length 3/8 ratchet.
How do you know what your torque is on your lugs?
Do you have to loosen the lugs first and retighten them to get them to 100lbs?
Got a 1/2" drive Craftsman with micrometer-type scales from Sears for about $60. Excellent. You can easily add drop-down extension adapter to convert to 3/8" drive or vive versa if you go with 3/8" drive.
I've got Craftsman, Husky and SnapOn torque wrenchs - mostly used on the jetski's. The Craftsman 3/8" is the take along wrench, the Husky is a big 1/2" for lug nuts - but the SnapOn's (1/4" & 3/8") are what I use when I build a motor.
No matter what wrench you get - make sure you have it caliburated periodically.
For an oil change, one grunt tight on the drain plug and 3/4 turn past gasket contact on the filter. I've done thousands of oil changes and never used a torque wrench, just give it a nice firm pull.
You really should have a 1/2" good quality torque wrench for the wheels. Those lugs are real important to keep at 100 lb ft. So my vote would be to get a good 1/2" to start with because you know you will need that for the wheels.
The drain plug, just a nice firm pull with a regular length 3/8 ratchet.
Been changing my own oil for 25 years and it never once involved the use of a torque wrench! Wheels are a different matter.
I own more torque wrenchs than I can think of right now.
I don't use one for the oil change
Don't buy the dial type, there's times when you can't see the dial.
light conditions, placement of tool, etc. Also you can over torque with the dial type.
If your just torqueing wheels and your never gonna do anything more than torque wheels with a given tool
There's a socket with a torque bar built into it that flexes at the right torque! I think groets garage has them for $40
I have a $750 dial torque wrench for low torque values for sale ! only $400
If your building airplanes or some other high tech items it offers 3x times the accuracy over the iso standards and doesn't need to be pre dialed