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Where is the is oil pan drain plug located on the LS2? I just brough my C6 home a week ago, and I'll be changing the oil for the first time tomorrow -- trying to figure out if I can get a good, complete drain if I use ramps to raise the front end of the car.
Before my vette came home, i installed a car lift in my garage . It's a ben Pack. It costed me approx around $3500, which also included modifying the garage door and opener. If you have the required garage height and bucks to spend I strongly suggest it, It makes all kinds of service to your car easy and also cleaning and waxing is alot more fun.
Where is the is oil pan drain plug located on the LS2? I just brough my C6 home a week ago, and I'll be changing the oil for the first time tomorrow -- trying to figure out if I can get a good, complete drain if I use ramps to raise the front end of the car.
thanks,
Mark
It's at the back of the pan on the driver's side.
Look past the back of the driver's-side tire and you'll see it.
You won't get a complete drain if you use ramps, but you will get a good drain. I wouldn't sweat a couple residual ounces of oil, especially if you change your oil before it turns to molasses.
Last edited by ProfMoriarty; Nov 19, 2006 at 10:58 AM.
I had planned to just let the dealer do it. But that plan changed now that I know those idiots can't even jack the thing up without tearing the crap out of it. I was just looking at mine. I am assuming the drain plug is the one on the bottom, on the side of the oil pan about 3 inches away from the oil filter?? I think you can almost reach it all without any jack at all if you turn the front wheels. Worst case, looks like you might need to use your floor jack (and puck) on the FL corner. Jack it up, pull the filter and plug, let it down to drain, jack it back up to install the plug and filter, let it back down and add the oil, start it up, idle, shut off, check for leaks, check oil level, done.
I do have a couple of questions....... what is the torque value for the drain plug? do you need to change any O ring or gasket on the drain plug?
I had planned to just let the dealer do it. But that plan changed now that I know those idiots can't even jack the thing up without tearing the crap out of it. I was just looking at mine. I am assuming the drain plug is the one on the bottom, on the side of the oil pan about 3 inches away from the oil filter?? I think you can almost reach it all without any jack at all if you turn the front wheels. Worst case, looks like you might need to use your floor jack (and puck) on the FL corner. Jack it up, pull the filter and plug, let it down to drain, jack it back up to install the plug and filter, let it back down and add the oil, start it up, idle, shut off, check for leaks, check oil level, done.
I do have a couple of questions....... what is the torque value for the drain plug? do you need to change any O ring or gasket on the drain plug?
Most of your questions answered here at this link. It's an easy job to do!
This has been discussed several times, the bottom line being most members think it's fine to drain while up on ramps. You won't get 100% of the oil out but not too much will be left behind.
This has been discussed several times, the bottom line being most members think it's fine to drain while up on ramps. You won't get 100% of the oil out but not too much will be left behind.
Agree. I had to use ramps and a jack on my C5 because the drain plug was in the front but only need to use ramps on the C6 since the drain plug is in the back.
Look past the back of the driver's-side tire and you'll see it.
You won't get a complete drain if you use ramps, but you will get a good drain. I wouldn't sweat a couple residual ounces of oil, especially if you change your oil before it turns to molasses.
I doubt there's 2 ozs left, if you drain it reasonably hot. Out of 6 qts on the Z51, whogas. My Rhino ramps, with a 2 by 12 between it and the wheels, work perfectly--no scrape of the airdams. For $30 you can't beat them. Prof Moriarty modified his and they are neat, but I'm basically lazy.... You'll have no problems.
From: To the right of Attila Cogito, Ergo, Corvette!
Quickride gave a very good summary in his thread. For my first change last weekend, I drove up on homemade ramps, then used floor jack with Northern Tools adapter to span the preferred lifting points at the rear. Not really necessary to lift rear end, as mentioned earlier, but for first drain, just wanted the car as level as possible.
After reading previous treads about Mobil 1 and the uncertainty of which base they were using, I found a local dealer for Redline Oil and used it. Had to get filter from Chevy dealer - only place with filter for 07. Redline oil has a good website if your are interested in any of the technical stuff about it.
Don't forget to carefully clean the magnetic tip on the drain plug, and after everything is done, remember to check filter and plug for any slow leaks. Never have had a leak occur, but just a good idea to check in case filter gasket didn't seat properly.
Good luck and enjoy your ride.
From: To the right of Attila Cogito, Ergo, Corvette!
G-BOAC, I'm not sure how to do a link to another thread, but look for the thread "another way to lift/jack..." posted by vet in todays general discussion. He has pics and a very well written description of how to adapt the Northern Tools cross beam adaptors. They are relatively cheap (but well made), and used with one or two good jacks and floor stands will give you a very secure/safe way to get the car up off the ground.
Good luck.
I just completed my first oil change so thanks to everyone for their very helpful replies, along with the link to the previous oil change thread.
I also appreciated the tips regarding where to spot the oil filter, to drive the car up onto a set of 2x12's, and to turn the wheel full left for additonal reach-in room. If necessary, I'd say the oil can even be changed with the car simply sitting on the ground.
For the record, I used a total of 6.0qt (including .5qt pre-fill on the filter) in my Z51. The oil level shows to the second (middle) dot on the dipstick. Prior to the oil change (factory fill) it was just above the middle dot, but below the third.
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