Engine flush? Hard driving makes it?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Objects in your mirror are losing , Long Island, NY
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I can understand. I change my oil ever two weekends on the track or about every 500 miles. Each session is 25-40 min and oil temps for those sessions are 250-265* and the driving is constant 3000 to redline, 50 to 140 mph, 3 to 5 times evey 2:15 secs or so
When I change the oil it goes in a nice translucent golden brown and when It comes out it is black sludge.
I reset the DIC to 100%. After one weekend on the track or about 250 miles the DIC is down to 70%. After two weekends on the ( about 500 miles) track about the DIC reads 30%. I change the oil and send oil samples to two differnt labs for annalysis.
What I also do is when all the oil has drained out, I pour an extra quart though the block and for about 1/2 of that quart it is still dark sludge, then turns golden brown like fresh oil.
Both labs say my oil change is about right. Three weekeds would be too much.
I use M1 15-W50.
When I change the oil it goes in a nice translucent golden brown and when It comes out it is black sludge.
I reset the DIC to 100%. After one weekend on the track or about 250 miles the DIC is down to 70%. After two weekends on the ( about 500 miles) track about the DIC reads 30%. I change the oil and send oil samples to two differnt labs for annalysis.
What I also do is when all the oil has drained out, I pour an extra quart though the block and for about 1/2 of that quart it is still dark sludge, then turns golden brown like fresh oil.
Both labs say my oil change is about right. Three weekeds would be too much.
I use M1 15-W50.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,611
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From: Thousand Oaks California
If you use the correct engine oil:
Mobil 1 Synthetic, SAE 5W-30, API SM, ILSAC GF-4, energy conserving, GM Standard GM4718M, GM Part No. 12345610
and change the engine oil and filter as per the maintenance section, the LS2 will never need a flush.
Mobil 1 Synthetic, SAE 5W-30, API SM, ILSAC GF-4, energy conserving, GM Standard GM4718M, GM Part No. 12345610
and change the engine oil and filter as per the maintenance section, the LS2 will never need a flush.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
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Originally Posted by welcome2try
No no, Once I pour in the new oil, , I check the new oil with the dip stick, and see that it is still dirty..
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,563
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From: Dallas Tx
As mentioned before, you've got the wrong oil in it. Get that 15,000 mile stuff out of there and use the silver cap regular Mobil 1.
If you want cleaner looking oil, change it more often. On all my vettes and F-bodies I've changed it at 3,000 miles and years later after an oil change it will still look like new oil. At 3K it starts to look a little dark. Now that's a clean engine.
But there are those who will argue to the death not to change the oil that often. But you seemed concerned on how to get clean looking oil, and the answer is on your next car change it more often.
On the flush questions - hell no. The last thing you want to do is stir up all the gunk and redistribute it around the enginge.
If you want cleaner looking oil, change it more often. On all my vettes and F-bodies I've changed it at 3,000 miles and years later after an oil change it will still look like new oil. At 3K it starts to look a little dark. Now that's a clean engine.
But there are those who will argue to the death not to change the oil that often. But you seemed concerned on how to get clean looking oil, and the answer is on your next car change it more often.
On the flush questions - hell no. The last thing you want to do is stir up all the gunk and redistribute it around the enginge.
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 15,324
Likes: 2,080
From: Guelph, Ontario
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
What I also do is when all the oil has drained out, I pour an extra quart though the block and for about 1/2 of that quart it is still dark sludge, then turns golden brown like fresh oil.
Both labs say my oil change is about right. Three weekeds would be too much.
I use M1 15-W50.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Originally Posted by welcome2try
You are the best. Now let me ask another question if I may..IS it 5-w50 or 15-w50?
If I used Redline I might be able to extend it. I would prefer a lower then 15-w50, more like a 5-w50 or a 10-w40.
It has been a while since I look at the shear ratings of oils. I do not rember the Redline 40 wt shear ratings.
I did see a Quakerstate / Penzoil / Helix( all the same) 5-w50 with a higher shear rating then M1 15-w50 but can not get the oil.
Within the next few months I have a new engine being built, so it will be great to tear this one down and take a look.
Oh I also have a big arz oil cooler and 3 qt accu-sump to keep the block well oiled.
Last edited by AU N EGL; Dec 1, 2006 at 02:29 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
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From: Guelph, Ontario
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
If I used Redline I might be able to extend it. I would prefer a lower then 15-w50, more like a 5-w50 or a 10-w40.
It has been a while since I look at the shear ratings of oils. I do not rember the Redline 40 wt shear ratings.
The two big problems with Redline are cost and availability though. But if you can find it easily and don't mind the extra cost, it's definitely worth the money if you're doing a lot of racing. For street use it's still good, but pretty much overkill when there are cheaper oils that will do a good job too.
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Team Owner
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From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Originally Posted by Patman
The two big problems with Redline are cost and availability though. But if you can find it easily and don't mind the extra cost, it's definitely worth the money if you're doing a lot of racing. For street use it's still good, but pretty much overkill when there are cheaper oils that will do a good job too.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Carlsbad Ca
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I can understand. I change my oil ever two weekends on the track or about every 500 miles. Each session is 25-40 min and oil temps for those sessions are 250-265* and the driving is constant 3000 to redline, 50 to 140 mph, 3 to 5 times evey 2:15 secs or so
When I change the oil it goes in a nice translucent golden brown and when It comes out it is black sludge.
When I change the oil it goes in a nice translucent golden brown and when It comes out it is black sludge.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,647
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From: Objects in your mirror are losing , Long Island, NY
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Michrider
As mentioned before, you've got the wrong oil in it. Get that 15,000 mile stuff out of there and use the silver cap regular Mobil 1.
If you want cleaner looking oil, change it more often. On all my vettes and F-bodies I've changed it at 3,000 miles and years later after an oil change it will still look like new oil. At 3K it starts to look a little dark. Now that's a clean engine.
But there are those who will argue to the death not to change the oil that often. But you seemed concerned on how to get clean looking oil, and the answer is on your next car change it more often.
On the flush questions - hell no. The last thing you want to do is stir up all the gunk and redistribute it around the enginge.
If you want cleaner looking oil, change it more often. On all my vettes and F-bodies I've changed it at 3,000 miles and years later after an oil change it will still look like new oil. At 3K it starts to look a little dark. Now that's a clean engine.
But there are those who will argue to the death not to change the oil that often. But you seemed concerned on how to get clean looking oil, and the answer is on your next car change it more often.
On the flush questions - hell no. The last thing you want to do is stir up all the gunk and redistribute it around the enginge.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,647
Likes: 1
From: Objects in your mirror are losing , Long Island, NY
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Michrider
As mentioned before, you've got the wrong oil in it. Get that 15,000 mile stuff out of there and use the silver cap regular Mobil 1.
If you want cleaner looking oil, change it more often. On all my vettes and F-bodies I've changed it at 3,000 miles and years later after an oil change it will still look like new oil. At 3K it starts to look a little dark. Now that's a clean engine.
But there are those who will argue to the death not to change the oil that often. But you seemed concerned on how to get clean looking oil, and the answer is on your next car change it more often.
On the flush questions - hell no. The last thing you want to do is stir up all the gunk and redistribute it around the enginge.
If you want cleaner looking oil, change it more often. On all my vettes and F-bodies I've changed it at 3,000 miles and years later after an oil change it will still look like new oil. At 3K it starts to look a little dark. Now that's a clean engine.
But there are those who will argue to the death not to change the oil that often. But you seemed concerned on how to get clean looking oil, and the answer is on your next car change it more often.
On the flush questions - hell no. The last thing you want to do is stir up all the gunk and redistribute it around the enginge.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Originally Posted by NORTY
The "black sludge" is caused by heat and/or oxidation.
I will also say I have had the heads off my block three times. Each time it still looks cleaner then guys who never see 3000 to redline.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
Originally Posted by welcome2try
WILL THERE BE ADVERSE EFFECTS IF i USE THE EXTENDED 15,000 MOBILE OIL? I was just wondering cause I just $62.00 on trhe oil change yesterday..Any opinions out there?
2. Over time, the extra additives in the Mobil1 EP oil may damage catalytic converters, that's supposed to be the main reason GM doesn't approve it.
3. I'm pretty picky about stuff like this, but i'd just leave the EP oil in there until the next change at normal interval.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Objects in your mirror are losing , Long Island, NY
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
1. GM COULD, but probably wouldn't, deny warranty coverage if your engine or cat converter went bad.
2. Over time, the extra additives in the Mobil1 EP oil may damage catalytic converters, that's supposed to be the main reason GM doesn't approve it.
3. I'm pretty picky about stuff like this, but i'd just leave the EP oil in there until the next change at normal interval.
2. Over time, the extra additives in the Mobil1 EP oil may damage catalytic converters, that's supposed to be the main reason GM doesn't approve it.
3. I'm pretty picky about stuff like this, but i'd just leave the EP oil in there until the next change at normal interval.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Damn, you guys are a little conservative. What the hell, my sticker on my car was $58000 on my car. I change the oil every 3000 miles regardless of how I drive, and it cost $60 each time. I could care less when my damn car payment is $1150 a month! I could care less if the oil is still good or not. My oil is just turning a darkish brown when I change it, and when I have been beating on the car a bit, it will be dark brown, but I just like it when my oil looks nice and clean whenever I check it. Hell I flush all my fluids in the car every 15000 miles, why not?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Objects in your mirror are losing , Long Island, NY
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by hodgeee
Damn, you guys are a little conservative. What the hell, my sticker on my car was $58000 on my car. I change the oil every 3000 miles regardless of how I drive, and it cost $60 each time. I could care less when my damn car payment is $1150 a month! I could care less if the oil is still good or not. My oil is just turning a darkish brown when I change it, and when I have been beating on the car a bit, it will be dark brown, but I just like it when my oil looks nice and clean whenever I check it. Hell I flush all my fluids in the car every 15000 miles, why not?
