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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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Default Engine light question

I was installing fuel rail covers tonight and when finished I started the car. The car was shaking a bit, and the engine light came on. Did a search on the forum, and as usual, came up with the answer. # seven coil wire was loosened when I put the driverside cover back on.

Upon pushing the wire clip in, (although it didn't seem out) the car was running perfectly again, but the engine light stayed on.

Here's the question: I disconnected the battery, then restarted the car. Engine light gone!! Am I done? Does the car need a trip to the dealer?

Question 2: Just bought a GS400 Scanner OBD 2 Can-Bus Code Reader canbus OBD2. Does anyone know if this is the model of choice, and where do these things plug in on the vette?

Thanx
Steve
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 09:51 PM
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its not my first choice in a scanner but it will work..
you plug it in to the obd2 port its on the bottom left side of the dash(where your feet and legs go for the pedals) to looks like the connector on the scanner..
its also in the owners manual..
post the code for the answer to your other question..

udriveslow
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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i think you are done. live in jersey, where we are not consider mentally capable of pumping our own gas. at least once or twice a year, the "full service technician" doesn't tighten the gas cap all the way. Result check engine light. 1st time it happened was on my camry and it cost me like $200 for trip to dealer and scam of needing new gas cap. other times after tightening cap, i have waited through the 3 or 4 "warm up" cycles for the light to turn it self off. long story longer last few times i just disconnected the battery like you did. light gone no problems. if you did have a problem it would be back. i have since brought a scanner to clear these codes, forget which one.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by UDRIVESLOW
its not my first choice in a scanner but it will work..
you plug it in to the obd2 port its on the bottom left side of the dash(where your feet and legs go for the pedals) to looks like the connector on the scanner..
its also in the owners manual..
post the code for the answer to your other question..

udriveslow

I don't have the code. I'm locking the barn door after the horse was stolen. After doing a search, and reading the "Fix it" thread many reccomended that Owning one of these devices is a must. I tend to TOTALLY agree. Interestingly enough, I never thought to check the manual. I figured this was all to high tech to be in the book. I learn here every day!
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Young_Z06
i think you are done. live in jersey, where we are not consider mentally capable of pumping our own gas. at least once or twice a year, the "full service technician" doesn't tighten the gas cap all the way. Result check engine light. 1st time it happened was on my camry and it cost me like $200 for trip to dealer and scam of needing new gas cap. other times after tightening cap, i have waited through the 3 or 4 "warm up" cycles for the light to turn it self off. long story longer last few times i just disconnected the battery like you did. light gone no problems. if you did have a problem it would be back. i have since brought a scanner to clear these codes, forget which one.

Thanks for the answer...makes sense. If there's still a problem I'm sure the light pops back on. I HATE leaving the car at the dealer. Some folks there, not all, but some, actually treat it like a Chevy!
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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I think all you have to do is disconect the battery...
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by sallen619
I think all you have to do is disconect the battery...
Disconecting the battery should clear the codes, if the check engine light stays off keep driving, if not you need to have it checked out.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 12:28 AM
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Do you have a different cam than stock? I do and the computer read the new firing sequence as misfires, hence the engine light came on. I took it back to the performance shop and with a laptop computer they expanded the acceptable range for the "misfires" so that the computer in the car would not read them as a problem. It took the guy about 5 minutes to make the adjustment, then he test drove it to make sure everything was ok. I've had no problems since.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by benspruce
Do you have a different cam than stock? I do and the computer read the new firing sequence as misfires, hence the engine light came on. I took it back to the performance shop and with a laptop computer they expanded the acceptable range for the "misfires" so that the computer in the car would not read them as a problem. It took the guy about 5 minutes to make the adjustment, then he test drove it to make sure everything was ok. I've had no problems since.

Nope, Stock Cam. Thanks for the tip though. I think my situation was "if it looks like a .....then it usually is one!"
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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Does he need to reindex the windows or is that a "convertible only" PITA?


Elmer
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
Does he need to reindex the windows or is that a "convertible only" PITA?


Elmer
Window's reindexed
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 01:48 PM
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If you have a fault code and want to clear it, most code readers have a 'clear code' capability as well.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 01:54 PM
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Don't forget that after the battery disconect you will have to "re-index" your windows. Owners manual describes the procedure - only takes a minute or so to do. Cheers - Jim
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Carnac
Don't forget that after the battery disconect you will have to "re-index" your windows. Owners manual describes the procedure - only takes a minute or so to do. Cheers - Jim

Done, and thank you!! Car's riding like a dream today. No vibration, no lights
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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