Snapped off lug bolt from rotor do I need to replace rotor?
06-24-2007, 08:45 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
The studs are pressed into the axle flange, the rotor goes over the flange. The wheel goes on next. The nuts hold it all together. Now... torque is not changed by the length of the extension as long as the extension is from the socket to the torque wrench. The addition of a longer handle on the wrench (Cheater bar) would NOT alter the torque settting although it would make it easier on the user. An extension that offsets the torque wrench centerline however would alter the torque. Mechanics 101, Bedrock City H.S. shop manual.
06-24-2007, 10:17 PM
#22
Safety Car
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 4,598
Received 69 Likes
on
45 Posts
2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16,'17,'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Now... torque is not changed by the length of the extension as long as the extension is from the socket to the torque wrench. The addition of a longer handle on the wrench (Cheater bar) would NOT alter the torque settting although it would make it easier on the user. An extension that offsets the torque wrench centerline however would alter the torque. Mechanics 101, Bedrock City H.S. shop manual.
06-24-2007, 10:23 PM
#23
Race Director
Using an extension will NOT effect a torque wrench, but it can change if you are using an impact wrench.
Almost all broken studs are related to either over or under torquing. If you've had any wheel/tire/suspension work done, I would be extremely suspicious that something was done incorrectly.
On the rear, the stud is blocked by the park brake cover. Quite a bit of dissasembly is required, but you can easily be pressed or tapped out.
Almost all broken studs are related to either over or under torquing. If you've had any wheel/tire/suspension work done, I would be extremely suspicious that something was done incorrectly.
On the rear, the stud is blocked by the park brake cover. Quite a bit of dissasembly is required, but you can easily be pressed or tapped out.
06-24-2007, 10:45 PM
#24
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2003
Location: Chattanooga Tennessee
Posts: 1,624
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I think it goes like this:
" The angle of the dangle is inversely proportional to the heat of the meat, provided the temperature remains constant"
BTW, it has been proven to be true
augydog
Last edited by augydog; 06-24-2007 at 10:52 PM.
06-25-2007, 07:10 AM
#25
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Hope, Arkansas - '07 LMB Coupe
Posts: 5,865
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Torque fundamentals 101
Torque is a measure of distance * force. In the American automotive field torque is usually measured using the units feet and pounds or inches and pounds. Given a constant amount of force (how hard you are pushing), increasing the distance (length of cheater bar) will result in a greater amount of torque assuming there is not a limiting mechanism such as that found in a spring type torque wrench. If a cheater bar is added to a plain ratchet wrench, then pushing on the cheater bar with 100 lbs. of force will result in a greater torque than pushing on the ratchet wrench alone with the same 100 lbs. of force.
Since a spring type torque wrench does have a limiting mechanism, a cheater bar will only result in less force being required to push on the wrench in order to achieve the amount of torque the wrench is set for.
Since a spring type torque wrench does have a limiting mechanism, a cheater bar will only result in less force being required to push on the wrench in order to achieve the amount of torque the wrench is set for.
06-25-2007, 08:11 AM
#26
Melting Slicks
As you can see the studs can be pressed out>>
Frnt view
Top view...by rotating the hub to align broken stud there is room on the side area to press out the stud and install a new one
Michael
Frnt view
Top view...by rotating the hub to align broken stud there is room on the side area to press out the stud and install a new one
Michael
06-25-2007, 12:40 PM
#27
Wonder how it sheared off, though. I've done it on our Grand National when the dip who had rotated the wheels cross threaded it. Easy enough to replace, but still a pita to have to do.
10-16-2008, 07:19 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Gents as an update to my initial post it has gotten worse. As of today I have broken off one stud from each of the four wheels.
After inspecting the cracked off stud there was significant rust so they had been cracked for a while before coming off. The last three the were still attacked to the car but just hanging on by a bit and came off when I was cleaning my rims and I noticed some wobble and when I went to tighten low and behold they broke rite off.
My dealer is miffed as to why they are breaking, I do have aftermarket rims and of course they are at the top of the list as far as cluprits go. I don't want to mention names but you can buy more expensive rims than these but I guess there is always a chance that they are an issue. When I called them they mentioned a retaining ring that is a friction fit over the base of the studs left in place after assembly but not required can cause an uneven seating of the rim. I have now ensured that this retaining ring si gone from all the wheel assembelies and I guess we will see what happens next.
If I break another I will be forced to switch back to my factory rims to see if it continues so that we can confirm it is a GM issue or not which I doubt as the odds of it being a chronic issue with GM studs is not that feasable. If I lived closer to to where the rims are manufactured I would ship one back for thier inspection but I don't so I am not at that point yet.
After inspecting the cracked off stud there was significant rust so they had been cracked for a while before coming off. The last three the were still attacked to the car but just hanging on by a bit and came off when I was cleaning my rims and I noticed some wobble and when I went to tighten low and behold they broke rite off.
My dealer is miffed as to why they are breaking, I do have aftermarket rims and of course they are at the top of the list as far as cluprits go. I don't want to mention names but you can buy more expensive rims than these but I guess there is always a chance that they are an issue. When I called them they mentioned a retaining ring that is a friction fit over the base of the studs left in place after assembly but not required can cause an uneven seating of the rim. I have now ensured that this retaining ring si gone from all the wheel assembelies and I guess we will see what happens next.
If I break another I will be forced to switch back to my factory rims to see if it continues so that we can confirm it is a GM issue or not which I doubt as the odds of it being a chronic issue with GM studs is not that feasable. If I lived closer to to where the rims are manufactured I would ship one back for thier inspection but I don't so I am not at that point yet.
10-16-2008, 07:56 PM
#29
Most of the time I have seen broken studs it has been do to lug nuts being way too loose rather than too tight. Loose nuts cause the wheel to move around slightly and places a significant load on the studs.
10-16-2008, 07:58 PM
#30
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Dalllas/Ft Worth Area TX
Posts: 4,642
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Gents as an update to my initial post it has gotten worse. As of today I have broken off one stud from each of the four wheels.
After inspecting the cracked off stud there was significant rust so they had been cracked for a while before coming off. The last three the were still attacked to the car but just hanging on by a bit and came off when I was cleaning my rims and I noticed some wobble and when I went to tighten low and behold they broke rite off.
My dealer is miffed as to why they are breaking, I do have aftermarket rims and of course they are at the top of the list as far as cluprits go. I don't want to mention names but you can buy more expensive rims than these but I guess there is always a chance that they are an issue. When I called them they mentioned a retaining ring that is a friction fit over the base of the studs left in place after assembly but not required can cause an uneven seating of the rim. I have now ensured that this retaining ring si gone from all the wheel assembelies and I guess we will see what happens next.
If I break another I will be forced to switch back to my factory rims to see if it continues so that we can confirm it is a GM issue or not which I doubt as the odds of it being a chronic issue with GM studs is not that feasable. If I lived closer to to where the rims are manufactured I would ship one back for thier inspection but I don't so I am not at that point yet.
After inspecting the cracked off stud there was significant rust so they had been cracked for a while before coming off. The last three the were still attacked to the car but just hanging on by a bit and came off when I was cleaning my rims and I noticed some wobble and when I went to tighten low and behold they broke rite off.
My dealer is miffed as to why they are breaking, I do have aftermarket rims and of course they are at the top of the list as far as cluprits go. I don't want to mention names but you can buy more expensive rims than these but I guess there is always a chance that they are an issue. When I called them they mentioned a retaining ring that is a friction fit over the base of the studs left in place after assembly but not required can cause an uneven seating of the rim. I have now ensured that this retaining ring si gone from all the wheel assembelies and I guess we will see what happens next.
If I break another I will be forced to switch back to my factory rims to see if it continues so that we can confirm it is a GM issue or not which I doubt as the odds of it being a chronic issue with GM studs is not that feasable. If I lived closer to to where the rims are manufactured I would ship one back for thier inspection but I don't so I am not at that point yet.
THIS IS WHAT I WOULD DO: REPLACE ALL STUDS, PROBLEM MOST LIKELY SOLVED.
Last edited by 2006c6keller; 10-16-2008 at 08:05 PM.
10-16-2008, 08:12 PM
#31
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: San Clemente CA
Posts: 27,420
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
48 Posts
Huh? The length of the extension (from the socket to the wrench) has no effect at all on the torque applied to the lugnut.
Now, if you use a longer wrench, you can apply a higher torque with less hand force, but a torque wrench will "click" at the same torque level, no matter how long the wrench handle.
Now, if you use a longer wrench, you can apply a higher torque with less hand force, but a torque wrench will "click" at the same torque level, no matter how long the wrench handle.
10-16-2008, 10:25 PM
#32
Drifting
Something is not right here. If studs are torqued correctly (everytime), they should not be breaking (unless defective stud). Also, is road salt affecting the studs, I noticed where you are from. Removing the retainer ring should equalize force around the hub for each stud. I find it hard to believe that wheels are affecting studs. Maybe someone along the line, new wheels, balancing, flats, etc., OVER TORQUED the studs. Things are not adding up. Salt and OVER torquing could be your problem. There are alot of Vettes out there with the retainer rings still on them from the factory and not breaking studs.
THIS IS WHAT I WOULD DO: REPLACE ALL STUDS, PROBLEM MOST LIKELY SOLVED.
THIS IS WHAT I WOULD DO: REPLACE ALL STUDS, PROBLEM MOST LIKELY SOLVED.
10-17-2008, 03:26 AM
#33
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: Rushsylvania Ohio
Posts: 4,836
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
That is the question I was wondering. I believe the stock C6 wheels are hub centric, in which case a lose lug nut is not going to cause the stud to break. If the new wheels are not hub centric, but rather lug centric, that could be a problem.
10-17-2008, 03:35 AM
#34
Team Owner
Member Since: Apr 2008
Location: Coloring within the lines
Posts: 27,482
Received 1,921 Likes
on
1,334 Posts
10-17-2008, 11:13 AM
#35
Incorrect style of lug nuts for your aftermarket wheels ? Some wheels use the standard acorn type nut, some require a nut that has a shoulder that supports the stud all the way through the stud hole in the wheel. If your aftermarket wheels have a larger stud hole, you must use a nut that has a long entension that supports the bore hole and the stud completly or the stud will have bending loads where it pass's through the hole in the wheel with no support in the wheel hole.
This unsupported bending of the stud will cause it to break.
Wrong lug nuts,,,,,, Find a good wheel guy, he will know if this is the problem as soon as he see's it.
just my 2 cents with no bailout backing
or just a Bubba with a air gun thinking he is the left front tire guy on the 8 car and over torquing the studs. I see few tire shops that use a torque wrench, usually just HAMMER the nuts on with an air gun set at the highest pressure. Not good
This unsupported bending of the stud will cause it to break.
Wrong lug nuts,,,,,, Find a good wheel guy, he will know if this is the problem as soon as he see's it.
just my 2 cents with no bailout backing
or just a Bubba with a air gun thinking he is the left front tire guy on the 8 car and over torquing the studs. I see few tire shops that use a torque wrench, usually just HAMMER the nuts on with an air gun set at the highest pressure. Not good
Last edited by Racer86; 10-17-2008 at 11:17 AM.
10-17-2008, 11:42 AM
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info guys a few questions you have asked
1) My car is never winter driven so no chance of salt being the cause
2) I always torque my wheels nuts to 100 ft/lbs and request that the dealer that services my car do the same (by hand not using an air gun). It is possible that either my torque wrence is very out of wack or they are not doing what I ask but I doubt that is the cause.
3) Is there a way to tell if my wheels are hub or lug centric? I will call the rim mauf and ask.
4) I will also ask the rim manuf if there a specific nut that is to be used with my rims. The rims did come with nuts which I used but they look identical to the factory ones from what I remember, I will re-check that when I go home this evening.
1) My car is never winter driven so no chance of salt being the cause
2) I always torque my wheels nuts to 100 ft/lbs and request that the dealer that services my car do the same (by hand not using an air gun). It is possible that either my torque wrence is very out of wack or they are not doing what I ask but I doubt that is the cause.
3) Is there a way to tell if my wheels are hub or lug centric? I will call the rim mauf and ask.
4) I will also ask the rim manuf if there a specific nut that is to be used with my rims. The rims did come with nuts which I used but they look identical to the factory ones from what I remember, I will re-check that when I go home this evening.
10-17-2008, 12:00 PM
#37
Keep us posted
10-17-2008, 12:19 PM
#38
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: The Beautiful Inland Empire WA.
Posts: 5,933
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
7 Posts
Huh? The length of the extension (from the socket to the wrench) has no effect at all on the torque applied to the lugnut.
Now, if you use a longer wrench, you can apply a higher torque with less hand force, but a torque wrench will "click" at the same torque level, no matter how long the wrench handle.
Now, if you use a longer wrench, you can apply a higher torque with less hand force, but a torque wrench will "click" at the same torque level, no matter how long the wrench handle.
10-17-2008, 12:19 PM
#39
Le Mans Master
That's what I was taught in school many years ago. I have no way of measuring it, so I'm going by what my auto mechanics teacher taught us.
EDIT- I just did some googling, and it appears my teacher was wrong (or a lot of other people are). Damn, no wonder I went into sales instead of becoming a mechanic
EDIT- I just did some googling, and it appears my teacher was wrong (or a lot of other people are). Damn, no wonder I went into sales instead of becoming a mechanic
To the OP, please do keep us posted. What started as a simple thread has become a mystery we want to know the ending too
Good luck, and lets hope we find the answer
01-19-2010, 03:04 PM
#40
I just snapped one myself, which I believe was caused by a cross-threaded lug nut
