I did a search but didnt really come up with anything.

What kind of springs are preferred to lower a Z51 C6? Something to make the fender the tire wall meet...

thnx guys!

 

You don't swap springs to lower a vette. They are transverse leafs, and have ride height adjustments.

 

So I can just lower them like coils?

i feel like a noob

 

No problem, your learning.

Whats great about the C6 is you can drop the car a good 2" on the stock factory bolts. No cutting, no springs, no change in the feel of the car..It just looks 100% better! You dont even need to remove the wheels, but you do need it up in the air. Its a 15 minute job.

 

Turn the adjusters counterclockwise an equal number of turns to lower.
You'll probably have to jack up the springs to take pressure off the adjusters..

 

It's nice that you can twist just ONE bolt per corner to lower a Vette. You can also get longer bolts from groups like West Coast Corvettes to lower it beyond what the factory bolts offer, or just cut down the factory rubber bumper donuts shown in Modshack's photo to get somewhat lower, too.

Just realize that many people report that lowering a Vette TOO far will make the car harder to negotiate driveways, speedbumps and other 'real world' obstacles. Plus, it can actually have a NEGATIVE affect on handling.

Of course - as usual - It all depends on what you really want from your car...

There are those that will debate the goods/bads of lowering a Vette, but the most knowledgeable among them, such as David Farmer (userID = DavidFarmer) , really know the RIGHT way to setup a C6 for HANDLING - if that's your bag...

I suggest you search for threads about lowering in the C6 Tech and Autocross/Roadrace Forums.

 

Coil-overs by the Lou Gigliotti team are a great way to bring that Vette to life.

 

I'll be kind here and just say that information isn't true. Not even close.

The OP is new and looking for GOOD information! Let's help him out and not confuse him.

 

Lowering it too much might interfer with stock shocks causing it to bottom out.

 

Whats not true about it dimwit!?

 

If you make a post like that you better have your facts in hand. As far as I've heard OneBadZ06 has the facts straight, just not sure about the 15 minute estimate... Tell us otherwise.

 

It's doable in 15 minutes. But I'll say that most people won't get 2'' out of it without modifying/changing the bolts. Mine got me at most 1''. Change in feel isn't noticeable on the street.

 

I've been told .75" at most on stock bolts.

 

Ok, to clarify.

The amount of drop you get actually varies by car. When my C6 was dropped, it was lowered as far as you can go without cutting the bushings. It certainly appeared to be in the 1.5-2.0" range. However, other C6s in my club were also lowered to the bottom of the bolts, and yet thier cars where not as low.

My 08 Z06 was also dropped to the max limit of the factory bolts and it is definately not as low as my C6 was. I will probably cut the bushings on the Z as I could go down another .75-1".

Its a 15 minute job by an experienced tech. I watched him do it on the Z and I can't beleive how easy it looked. I can not image it would take more than 30 minutes for anyone.

Here are pics of my C6 and Z06 so you can get the idea of the stance.

I still have no clue what the hell Corvettedave is talking about when he stated my info is "not even close". But thanks to the others that have confirmed my info.

Regards.

 

[QUOTE=OneBadZ06;1562143594]No problem, your learning.

Whats great about the C6 is you can drop the car a good 2" on the stock factory bolts.

Not true: I have lowered 4 or 5 C6's and numerous C5's. Both C6's I owned only lowered 1/4" (1 to 2 turns) in the rear. Lowered about 5/8" in the front. By cutting 2/3" of the bushings in the front and rear I am now at 3/4".
You can't get 2" if you took the #$%^&*@ bolt out.
You said "It certainly appeared to be in the 1.5 to 2" range". Sounds like you didn't measure. If not how can you say the cars will lower 2" on stock bolts?

No cutting, no springs, no change in the feel of the car..It just looks 100% better! You dont even need to remove the wheels, but you do need it up in the air.

Not true: While lowering can be done without taking the wheels off, the car DOESN'T need to be in the air.

Its a 15 minute job.

Not true if done properly: Properly means taking accurate measurements before you begin. Then lowering each corner so that the wheel gap is even around the car. GM recommends turning the bolts equal amounts side to side.
It sounds like you didn't take measurements before lowering and just turned the bolts as far down as you could.
It is important not to change the rake of the car much to avoid high speed instability. That is what can happen when you just get in there and start turning bolts.

 

Well then...there you have it. Everybody feel better. Now, go out there and give your Vettes a big hug. Go on now.

 

Nevermind.

 

I don't profess to be an expert but I just spent several hours with a very experienced C6 racer setting-up my car for the track (road course). With new, upsized wheels and tires my car needed to be setup all over again. I also recently had the car aligned to specific...more track oriented specs.

For the track you utilize the lowering bolts to level the car. Tire pressures are checked first....the car tires are resting on a dead-level lift...measurements are taken from the level 'ground' (the level lift you drove the car onto) up to 4 specific points underneath the car...you have to drive the car in between adjustments to settle the suspension....re-measure...re-adjust...drive the car again to settle the suspenson and make final measurements and adjustments. For every action there is a re-action...you turn the left front bolt it affects the right rear, etc. You continually check the four (4) measurements and also utilize a level as well.

Even trying to get a trim height by the book (and measuring differently than I did) IMO you just don't start turning bolts (even equal turns) without knowing exactly where you're at to begin with. There's no telling just how your car was setup at the factory. Perhaps you changed wheels and/or tires...this could affect the setup.

When talking about having the car in the air...perhaps this means just using a jack (carefully) on the spring to relieve some of the tension to make it easier to turn the bolt(s).

Irregardless whether you're trying to setup your C6 by the book (with a rake); just trying to slam it; or, leveling it for the track, I think it's essential to take accurate measurements to know where you're at to begin with. I wouldn't just start turning bolts blindly.

 

Sounds like good advice, Wayne. Thanks for the post!