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Just installed my yellow gauges (how to many pics)

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Old 03-15-2008, 08:48 PM
  #41  
iridelow
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Originally Posted by Pipedreams
How is the blue next to LMB?
READ MY NEW POST

Last edited by iridelow; 03-16-2008 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 03-15-2008, 08:48 PM
  #42  
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Great write up.
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Old 03-15-2008, 08:51 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by iridelow
98% match... They are just about perfect!!!!!
That is the #1 question is how do they look on LMB
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:10 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Kent1999
Install: about 45 mins.
Removing cluster and resetting needle position about 100 times: 4 hours, and counting.

Yes, I followed the directions to the letter. I know for a lot of people, it's a simple A-B-C. But be aware, there are some of us for which the procedure just didn't work that well, despite the directions.
I agree and think each person has to evaluate their skills and the risks of doing a mod like this. I posted this since some of my finding and methods were different from the instructions I will be doing a few more and will see how they go.
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:57 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by RACE U
i know its hard to tell from a picture with a flash, but how deep are the blue gauges? Are they more of a JSB or LMB?

Thanks.
I just got mine in the mail.. THEY ARE LMB not JSB.....I would say 98% match of the LMB...
Read my new post..............

Last edited by iridelow; 03-16-2008 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:01 PM
  #46  
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Great write up Ed.

I knew if i stalled for at least one day yours would come in and you would "show us the way". Mine will go on Sunday, now that I have the best directions.
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:11 PM
  #47  
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Default Monty Red???

Hey all. I have a Monty Red and I am not sure what color to go with...
I talked to the guy who sells these and he said he would make me a stainless steel one if I really wanted it. Just not sure what to do...

Anyone seen the painted silver yet? I suppose I could go with the white, too...

Thanks for the help.
Dinger
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:13 PM
  #48  
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Looks Great Ed....can't wait to see it in person
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:24 PM
  #49  
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Nice, now get some night pictures.
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:10 AM
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I finally finished my gages last night and now I know I can do it quickly having learned some valuable information that should have been in the instruction sheet! I had quite a few problems as a couple others have and it could have been avoided with a little more info on the instructions.

First: They recommend marking down the needle position before starting. Good advice, but if you have a digital camera, I recommend taking close-up photos of the gages.

Second: The information they don't include in the instructions. You will notice the needles have a fairly free-moving range of about 300 degrees. In other words, when rotating the needle clockwise, it will move freely almost completely around before reaching a highly resistive point. Then turning the needle counter-clockwise, it will move freely most of the way around before reaching another resistive point. If you apply a little more pressure, you can adjust this resistive stop anywhere on the gage. The counter-clockwise stop should be aligned with the resting point as shown in your needle placement drawing or photo.
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:17 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Maizen
I finally finished my gages last night and now I know I can do it quickly having learned some valuable information that should have been in the instruction sheet! I had quite a few problems as a couple others have and it could have been avoided with a little more info on the instructions.

First: They recommend marking down the needle position before starting. Good advice, but if you have a digital camera, I recommend taking close-up photos of the gages.

Second: The information they don't include in the instructions. You will notice the needles have a fairly free-moving range of about 300 degrees. In other words, when rotating the needle clockwise, it will move freely almost completely around before reaching a highly resistive point. Then turning the needle counter-clockwise, it will move freely most of the way around before reaching another resistive point. If you apply a little more pressure, you can adjust this resistive stop anywhere on the gage. The counter-clockwise stop should be aligned with the resting point as shown in your needle placement drawing or photo.
This is great information...but can you expand - how do you move the "resistive stop"? When you are rotating counterclockwise 5 times, don't you blow through the resistive point a few times? Does that move the restitive point?
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:27 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Maizen
I finally finished my gages last night and now I know I can do it quickly having learned some valuable information that should have been in the instruction sheet! I had quite a few problems as a couple others have and it could have been avoided with a little more info on the instructions.

First: They recommend marking down the needle position before starting. Good advice, but if you have a digital camera, I recommend taking close-up photos of the gages.

Second: The information they don't include in the instructions. You will notice the needles have a fairly free-moving range of about 300 degrees. In other words, when rotating the needle clockwise, it will move freely almost completely around before reaching a highly resistive point. Then turning the needle counter-clockwise, it will move freely most of the way around before reaching another resistive point. If you apply a little more pressure, you can adjust this resistive stop anywhere on the gage. The counter-clockwise stop should be aligned with the resting point as shown in your needle placement drawing or photo.
Great info and I agree on the resistive stop. I have been in touch with the owner (Harry) and he is going to update the instructions based on some of our comments. They seam like a great company and they make the OEM guages for most of detroit. I was very happy with the quality, fit and finish
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:31 AM
  #53  
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Nice write-up with excellent Pics!

You - Da - Man!
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:38 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
This is great information...but can you expand - how do you move the "resistive stop"? When you are rotating counterclockwise 5 times, don't you blow through the resistive point a few times? Does that move the restitive point?
Yes, when you turn the needles counter-clockwise the five times, you actually rotate the stop around the gage five times. The key is to adjust the stop as it was originally set!
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:44 AM
  #55  
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I installed the LMB and SORRY, No good. They are just to dark! You might as well leave in the black gauges because you can hardly tell the difference. They are a good match for the LMB, but they are just to dark, they do NOT look like the picture here on the site. That picture must be with a camera flash, because the LMB installed are just to dark.... I am going to send mine back and get red!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-16-2008, 01:52 PM
  #56  
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Just finished installing my white faces. I had a little problem with my tach. Guess I had it too low. It worked fine on the test as per instructions. I would start the car and check all gauges BEFORE you put the lens cover on and AFTER, just to make sure there is no problem.

I need to check mine at night for the light glow. I did not receive the needle removal tool in my set. So I just tried my best.

My face plates has glue or rust marks all over the outside edge and around the center hole for the tach and mph. I tried to clean them up as much as I could. The lens cover hides all the outside edges so none of that shows, thank goodness.

I really like the white faces. My interior is cashmere and the faces pull in the body color quite nicely.
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Old 03-16-2008, 02:27 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by wayback
Just finished installing my white faces. I had a little problem with my tach. Guess I had it too low. It worked fine on the test as per instructions. I would start the car and check all gauges BEFORE you put the lens cover on and AFTER, just to make sure there is no problem.

I need to check mine at night for the light glow. I did not receive the needle removal tool in my set. So I just tried my best.

My face plates has glue or rust marks all over the outside edge and around the center hole for the tach and mph. I tried to clean them up as much as I could. The lens cover hides all the outside edges so none of that shows, thank goodness.

I really like the white faces. My interior is cashmere and the faces pull in the body color quite nicely.
I am sure on your AW the white is perfect. The tool is kind of hidden as it's tucked into the cardboard flap. The faces are laser cut so that is the burn, but as we both found that is 100% covered once the bezels trim is on. Good tip, as the instruction elude to, start, check, reset and check again
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Old 03-16-2008, 03:12 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Pipedreams
I am sure on your AW the white is perfect. The tool is kind of hidden as it's tucked into the cardboard flap. The faces are laser cut so that is the burn, but as we both found that is 100% covered once the bezels trim is on. Good tip, as the instruction elude to, start, check, reset and check again
Just went and checked. Sure enough there it is. Boy do I feel dumb.

Yes everything is 100% hidden by the bezel trim. They look awesome.
Thanks Ed.
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Old 03-16-2008, 03:26 PM
  #59  
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Any night pics yet, Ed?

Thanks
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Old 03-16-2008, 03:32 PM
  #60  
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Looks great. Thanks for the info.
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